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10/22 Build

paulleve

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May 28, 2009
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I've been shooting for quite a few years, and have never owned a 10/22. This summer I figured it was time to change this, so I started ordering parts as I figured out the ones I wanted. My goal was to build a .22 for accuracy, that I can shoot at the 300 and 400 yard long range at my club. Here are a few pics of the build for anyone considering a pretty easy project.



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The patent ran out on the 10/22, so lots of companies are now making parts. It's possible to build an entire rifle without using a single Ruger part. Here are the parts I assembled for this build, and there are only a couple components that are actually made by Ruger. The rest come from a variety of manufacturers.


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The only challenging part of this build was getting the barrel into the receiver. This step required anti-seize, heating the receiver, and some slight motivation with a rubber mallet. Then I spent way too much time leveling out the barrel and receiver to make sure the extractor opening was correctly timed. The only "special tool" that helps in the build is a rounded Allen bit that will allow the use to a torque wrench to tighten down the v-block that connects the barrel and receiver.

For this build I wanted a receiver without a built in rail because I planned to mount a 40 MOA rail for long distance shooting. I also wanted a receiver with an opening at the rear to allow a cleaning rod to be inserted through the breech end of the barrel. As for the barrel, I did lots of research and it turns out everyone has their favorites. (There are plenty of videos of guys on Youtube who install a $300 barrel then conduct accuracy tests with Golden Bullets!)



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To improve on the standard Ruger trigger, components can be swapped out or the entire trigger pack can be replaced. I went with a complete trigger pack and then installed an extended mag release and an automatic bolt release. (When the bolt is held back, the auto release allows the bolt to close when it is pulled an let go.)




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It only took a few hours to assemble this rifle, install and level the scope, and then laser boresight.



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The 40 MOA rail tilts the scope downward which results in a 10 foot rise in impact at 300 yards. This rail allows the rifle to zero at 50 yards and dial up elevation to hold directly on target at 400 yards.


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I got the rifle out to the range today, and could not be happier with the results. Based on what I have read, this barrel performs best after about 500 rounds of break in. I brought along CCI SV, Aguila Super Extra, and Mini-mags for the break in. After firing off 20 rounds for a function check, I made some small adjustments to get the scope sighted in. Then I figured I'd try a few groups just because. After firing a sighting group with SV, I shot this one. That's 5 rounds at 50 yards that knocked the orange dot right off the target. Size is about .25" center to center. Holy cow, this thing has potential!


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Next I seasoned the barrel with 20 rounds of Super Extra and shot a 5 round group. That one is about .5" A breeze picked up and the next few groups shot with Mini-mags both came in at about .75" At that point I decided to continue break in at the long range.


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Even though it was not the best day for long range .22 shooting do to varying wind speed and direction, I had a blast with this rifle! At one point there was a 32" drift at 400 yards between point of aim and point of impact. When the wind settled, it was possible to double tap the 12" gong at 300 yards and hear both rounds impact. "Bang, bang, (pause), tink, tink!" Unfortunately, after building and testing this one, I am already thinking about the next one!
 
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Impressive. I didn't know .22lr could stretch out reliably to 400 yards. Incidentally, what range is that? I'm quite envious.

That's Springfield Sportsman's Club in Monson, MA. I tried shooing .22 at the long range through a Savage MK II just for fun, then realized it was possible to make consistent hits at long ranges. The limiting factor is elevation. The first time I tried .22 at this range, a budy and I were aiming up into the trees to hit the gongs, and then only when we got lucky. The correct rail allows you to dial up elevation and then aim with the scope directly on the target, and then it's just a matter of dealing with wind. A .22 at 300 yards has similar ballistics to a .308 at 1,000 yards, so it can be a challenge. But when you get it figured out, it is immensely rewarding!
 
If you don’t mind me asking, about how much $ do you have into the gun excluding the glass? I’m considering doing a very similar project, however I do not have a clue where to start. What barrel to go with ect.
I’ve been doing a bunch of research, but this 22 target game It’s proving to be quite a deep rabbit hole. The more research I do the more confused I become.
Any help iot advice is appreciated.
Pete
 
If you don’t mind me asking, about how much $ do you have into the gun excluding the glass? I’m considering doing a very similar project, however I do not have a clue where to start. What barrel to go with ect.
I’ve been doing a bunch of research, but this 22 target game It’s proving to be quite a deep rabbit hole. The more research I do the more confused I become.
Any help iot advice is appreciated.
Pete

I've got about $900 into this rifle, minus the scope. It would have been very easy to spend a lot more, but hard to spend much less and get the same results.

Deciding on parts resulted in chasing the rabbit down a great many holes, because everyone has their opinion, and there are a ridiculous number of possibilities when it comes to components such as barrels. I went with a KIDD barrel on my build and couldn't be happier. (I liked the fact that KIDD had 1 MOA guaranteed groups, and also that they recommended skipping fancy barrel profiles if accuracy was the goal.) With this setup I can put roughly 50% of shots on a 6" plate at 400 yards when conditions are favorable. When the wind is causing problems , every 1 mph crosswind results in about 7.5 inches of shift in impact with .22 LR at this range. I can still hit the 6" gong, but it takes a lot more rounds while holding for windage and elevation.
 
What receiver did you go with?
I chose a Brownells without rail. I wanted a receiver with an opening that allowed cleaning from the rear, and for it to be drilled and tapped for a mount. Having the rail built in is good for close range, but I wanted to be able to mount a 40MOA rail for shooting out to 400 yards+. With my current setup I can zero at 50 yards and still dial in enough elevation to hold dead on at 400. At both ends the scope is almost maxed out, but I still have a few clicks either way.
 
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