10mm issues (and a reminder to test your carry setup)

kalash

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Going camping soon and decided to get some decent hard cast ammo for my 10mm Glock. It's a 21 but I have a Lone Wolf 10mm conversion kit (barrel and guide rod). I've shot target ammo with this setup before - no issues but also not many rounds.

Nonstop issues today. FTF or FTE on almost every round.


0714191151_HDR.jpg 0714191152_HDR_01.jpg 0714191152a_HDR_01.jpg 0714191152b_HDR.jpg


Then it just decided to destroy its own guide rod.

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Not limp wristing.
No case bulging
Three different u-notch pre-ban mags
Herter's 180gr FMJ
Underwood 200gr hard cast


So what the heck happened here? Why so many malfunctions? Why the rod failure?
 
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lots of potential for such issues:

1) aftermarket guide rod - possibly oversprung if getting feed issues
2) u notch mags - i'm guessing your springs are shot. run new production square notch problem likely solved
3) aftermarket barrels have less chamber support - great for safety or really hot ammo but provide a narrower path for the bullet to navigate into chamber
4) assuming there's a glock 21 extractor in there? because not the same size and i needs to fit around case head curing feeding

if it's a gen 3 i would just either un an OEM spring (which is undersprung) or a wolff guide rod with their heavier spring maybe 20 or 22#
 
Guide rod already going / gone bad during the time you had the FTF's / FTE's? That thing aftermarket? Appears to be...
 
Guide rod issue from the start the guide rod was binding already broken or the guide rod was out of position when the pistol was assembled after cleaning . Get a new guide rod and spring. Check to see if the 45 slide and guide rod works OK with the 10mm barrel Glock uses the same extractor so that should.not be an issue
 
i'm having a problem, different caliber, with a kkm barrel. not bad mouthing any brand of barrel here so nobody read anything into it. it also maybe the gun. i wanted to play with the .357 sig cartridge. i changed 2 old gen 2 glocks over and a bought new smith m&p .40c.
1. gen 2 g22, sits on a lone wolf frame, lone wolf .357 sig barrel - runs like a champ
2. m&p w/storm lake .357 sig barrel - also runs like a champ

(have yet to record any stoppages in feeding or ejection with either.)

3. lastly, gen 2.5 g27 w/kkm .357 sig barrel. fails to fully go into battery at least 3 rounds per mag. i know as long as i've had the pistol it runs all day, every day in the original configuration...40 s&w. still does when i change back to the original .40 barrel. typical glock, flawless.

all 3 have been fed on my .357 sig reloads since day 1. i go the extra step of using a lee factory crimp die & i do a plunk test on each box, doing 5 of 50 reloads. actually, i thought i might have a re-size issue at first so i took that kkm barrel and sat down one night and "plunked" all 1800 rounds i had loaded. all were perfect, none were tight dropping in, falling under their own weight. i'm now thinking guide rod/recoil spring. changed that to a new unit, nope, not that. the other thing i thought was possibly the angle of the feed ramp, off a bit where the slide needs a nudge sometimes to close. it's not a lot out of battery, barely noticeable at first glance, but i don't have a way of checking the ramp.

my loads a pretty zippy, using starline brass, new, never fired before with a hornady xtp 124 gr bullet over 9 gr of hs-6. starting load is 8 gr, max is 9.

any ideas on this issue? op, not trying to hijack the thread!
 
This sums up how I feel about nearly all caliber conversions...

View attachment 293304

If you use quality parts, conversions can be a successful skinflint activity. Latest I did was plug in a Storm Lake 9mm conversion into a G35 slide. Basically it's now a tack-driving bull barrel G34 that in 15 seconds can be converted back to a .40 cal. The slide was dirt cheap because nobody wants a G35 slide and it was priced accordingly. Anyway, 2 calibers for the price of one vs. just buying a G34 slide plus some added heft for the thicker barrel. Goes bang every time, which I expected. Storm Lake makes nice stuff and I've been a fan for a while. Used to be an account of mine, so I had the chance to see what they do in the shop. Nice folks too.
 
I'm not a fan of caliber conversions either but it should work. The G21 slide is slightly lighter than the G20 slide, so it'll be interesting to see if the 22# RSA slows the slide down and solves the FTF/FTE issues when using power 10mm.
 
I think Squib308 got it with #4...

Yup. People don't realize that although you can swap a 9mm barrel into a .40, the extractor AND ejector are different because the case is a different diameter.

Same goes for .45 converted to a 10 mm. About the only conversion that isn't affected is a .40 to .357 sig.
 
I started in 10mm converting a 21 with a Storm Lake barrel and a heavier spring. It worked well on most levels - it was accurate and reliable, but not consistent. Barrel shot well, no issues with FTE/FTFs but it would not eject brass to any consistent place. Tried 3 different extractors, which improved but didn't fix the problem. My theory is that even with the proper radius extractor, the larger notch in the slide (fit to 45CP brass) allowed enough movement that when the ejector hit the case would not be in the same place. Chasing 10mm brass all over an outdoor range, or watching them drop into the ventilation system indoors got old, so I sold the barrel and bought a 20... and a 29... and started building a 10mm 1911.
 
I built a "gamer" Glock 34 out of a G35 with a KKM barrel. Because the OD of the .40 cal barrel is larger, you end up with a gun with much more weight on the nose than a real .34.

I have the original .40 cal extractor and ejector. It runs fine and ejects consistently.

Of course, this gun is 100% purely a toy. If I thought I'd count on it for anything other than punching paper or knocking down steel, I'd change out the extractor and ejector.

One side point. The chamber in the KKM barrel is MUCH tighter than the OEM glock chamber. My wife shoots a 34 and before a match I "plunk test" all my reloads into the KKM's chamber.

I usually get a couple that fail. Nearly all of those failed rounds drop right into the Glock chamber in the OEM barrel in my wife's 34.
 
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