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Today was my lucky day . Happened to stop into Walmart in Bellingham. The kid in the sporting section was stocking the ammo cabinet. They received 5 cases of Winchester 22LR. I bought a 1000 rd box for 54.00 and change including tax.
That GECO "optimized for semi-auto" is good stuff. You need a rag to wipe your hands off periodically, but it runs just about every .22 semi I've got, and prints accurately.
Those are impressive groups! Always found it amazing that the "ballistics" of 22lr are such that it hits higher at 50 yards when zeroed at 100 yards (similar to firing the M2 machine gun that when zeroed at 10 meters is zeroed at 1000 meters therefore you have to aim VERY frigging low at 500 meters) 22lr works the same principle just on a smaller scale.......the "arc" traveled by 22lr is big.......but as you show here VERY predictable with a good rifle and decent ammo!
I find this to be such bull shit..... 50 plus year old 22 semi auto I have will run on shorts, longs or LR.... please special ammo for semi auto's really. Never was such a thing 50 plus years ago.
Actually 2 things kept 22s from cycling back then. A shitty gun or a dirty gun. If the manufactures woud just make a good product there wouldn't be a need for "semi auto 22lr ammo" WTF
I will keep my 50 plus year old Remington 552 over anything semi auto made in the past 10 years. It will cycle shorts with out adjustment or any special ammo so will my JC Higgins model 31 and my S&W model 41 from the 60s will cycle all but the Remington goldenturds even some 1970s vintage Remington green box target stuff I still have.
Basic trajectory of the 22lr standard velocity at 25 yards your point of impact is aprox 2.5" high of point of aim to be point of aim point of impact at 100 yards. its close enough to be on paper anyway. velocity and ammo might be a few +/- MOA. Now if you want to reach out to 200 yards shooting at 25 yards your point of impact will be about 7.5-10" above point of aim. A 200 yard zero will hit aprox 20" high when shooting at 100 yards.
If you want to be able to hit a 2" target with out changing your center aim hold point you could zero your rilfe around 15 yards or so and you should be able to hit a 2" target out to 65-70 yards with out changing your point of aim.
I know this particular rifle can shoot very well. if I spend the cash on some higher end Lapua or Eley or if I really want to spend tennex has down wonders but at 20+ cents a shot and my degrading skills and vision I think 65$/500 is about the best I will shoot these days.
I never ran the math but have many many many range trips to qualify on the M2 platform. The process was to actually "zero" at 10 meters......seriously you start M2 machine gun "table 1" training by shooting at a target 10 meters away. Once you figure out your hold point (there is no way to "zero" an M2 you just get used to where the gun hits and use an a gunner to help you adjust) you move on to the qualification which is area targets that pop up out to 1000 meters.....for those targets you pretty much aim center mass........the "arc" of the tracers is HUGE......like mini artillery. ......but you will hit the 1000 meter targets with a center mass hold. The hardest to hit are the 300-600 meter targets........like I said I never ran the math but it seems like to hit the 500 you are aiming like 50 feet in front of the target!
Interesting stuff ballistic trajectory.........and I find the 22lr to be the same concept as ma deuce just on a much shorter scale. Well.......and not quite as fun as rocking an M2!
I guess my point in all this is that different cartridges have different trajectory characteristics.......17 hmr is very flat.......so is .556. What makes 22lr so interesting is figuring out how to zero yours and know the hold points for different distances.
Stopped at the Pittsfield Walmart on Friday and low and behold, .22 LR. First time I've seen .22 there in 4 years. There were two boxes of Remington Thunderbolt 500ct. for about $24 each. I bought them both.
Anybody shot Aguilla Super Extra HV?
Got an email about a deal at around 7.5 cents, delivered, for 5,000 rounds. I'm tempted to jump on it.
I,have shot many K rounds of super extra ... since 7.5 cents appears to be the new "cheap" price why not. I have no experience with the HV stuff. Over the years I have not found any gain using HV 22lr if anything 95% of the time I loose accuracy....I will be testing some in my daughter's Rascal out of the 16" barrel to up velocity a little.
It's the same price for this stuff:
Any reason to go with one over the other? I'm just going to be blasting steel plates with it, not looking for tight groups or hunting rounds.
Which one requires more barrel cleaning, the copper plating or the plain lead?
As much as I am not a huge fan I have bought some of the M22 lately when available. It is good for plinking and at Walmart it is .05 a round. It has a few duds but still cheap to shoot.Thanks for the input. I went ahead and grabbed a case of the HV copper plated stuff. My new threshold has been if I find .22LR for under 8 cents I buy it. I haven't bothered looking in stores for a while, since I now have an ass-load of the stuff, but when a good deal shows up in my email it's hard to resist.
I've shot a lot of the Aguila in both flavors. The plated HV stuff is good for semi-auto rifles, particularly AR style! They do not like the lead SV stuff. My old rifles (vintage pump guns and lever guns) are much more accurate with the SV stuff. Same with my vintage wheel gun. The SR22 likes everything. For 100yds or more, you want the plated HV as its more accurate at distance probably because it doesn't drop as quickly.
For 100yds or more, you want the plated HV as its more accurate at distance probably because it doesn't drop as quickly.
past that they drop down back into sub sonic and seem to loose consistent groups?