3D Printing FTW!!!

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I am not sure who you have been talking to about 3d printed metal (DMLS) because the stuff I am using is robust enough for use inside of suppressors at that thickness. You can print in Inconel 718 for christ sakes!

It's all super expensive and not as strong as you'd want it to be.
It doesn't have to be just "strong" it also has to be "tough" (i.e. stand up to impacts, etc.)

When you print in metal you get a porous structure that is prone to cracking

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Unless I missed, it the mag is not printed.
 
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Wonder the legality of letting someone borrow your 3d printer to make a lower? Can't be to hard to load the program/schematic/blueprint and hit "play" right?
 
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Wonder the legality of letting someone borrow your 3d printer to make a lower? Can't be to hard to load the program/schematic/blueprint and hit "play" right?

Only precedent I can think of is that time people were going to a machine shop and pushing the GO button on a CNC. That's definitely a no-no.

I'm not gonna find out wrt 3d printers.
 

TZCHRIS

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Vegas Baby!
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Laser sintering is pretty cool stuff, I looked at buying one of these, it was $750K, ouch! You could 3D print anything. GE is printing engine parts for turbines that were almost impossible to manufacture 5 years ago. Anyone got some extra cash? Like $745K? I got $5K

Yah I used to work at GE and I saw those parts, they're really cool and REEEEEEEEALY expensive and only kinda half work.

But they just bought the company that prints in INCO 718 for them and it'll all go silent for the next 10-20 years if not more.

i hate you GE.
 

rkwjunior

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It's all super expensive and not as strong as you'd want it to be.
It doesn't have to be just "strong" it also has to be "tough" (i.e. stand up to impacts, etc.)

When you print in metal you get a porous structure that is prone to cracking

- - - Updated - - -



Unless I missed, it the mag is not printed.

A company Called Vader is making a 3d Metal printer that prints without the porosity drawback, supposedly they will be making a machine for less than 10k, What a bargain!!!!
 

Boris

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I'm setting up a business for myself with scanners and 3D printers and CNC machines.
I should have the scanner soon (inside the next month) and looking to formally launch in the summer.

I can give you special Boris pricing.

I do not make lowers or any other registerable components.
No illegal or gray area transactions!!!!


you had mentioned LPS or whatever that material is that's solvable. What is it, what's the solvent?

Can you print in plain wax or wax like substance. Actually that's much more useful because then you can use lost wax process to get the part out of any metal. Most jewelry and even stainless steel props are made with lost wax. It's highly detailed and obviously little problems with strength. Aluminum is probably the easiest to cast after Zink and Pb, cheap and very doable in the back yard.

Which town are you setting up at?
 

Boris

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In case people are not familiar with lost wax technique, basicaly make whatever you need in regular wax. Than dunk wax in special hi temp plaster for small things (larger parts are made by dipping into a suspension, building an outside hard coat). Then you dry the plaster/mold, heat up to melt then burn away wax ... poor liquid metal. Done! Exceptional detail. This been done for ages, one of the oldest technologies. Aluminum melts at cherry red of steel, so you can easily melt some in a soup can on your BBQ, but obviously there are better ways.
 
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I have a Taurus 740 Slim I wish I had an extended mag for (I know. . . taurus sucks, etc etc etc)

I measured the baseplate and extended it for +2 and VOILA!!!!!
View attachment 97919 View attachment 97920 View attachment 97921

Remember, It's okay if you keep under 10 rds (in this case it goes from 6 to 8).
If you have a preban over 10 rounds you can extend to infinity.

Buy a 3D printer now!

If you cure it with acetone, it'll be a lot stronger. Take an empty paint can, soak some rags in acetone and use magnets to stick the rags to the exterior walls of the can. Elevate the part and put the can over the part so that the rags aren't actually touching it. After 15 minutes remove it and let it cure for another hour or so. The evaporating acetone "melts" the print lines together.
 
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If you cure it with acetone, it'll be a lot stronger. Take an empty paint can, soak some rags in acetone and use magnets to stick the rags to the exterior walls of the can. Elevate the part and put the can over the part so that the rags aren't actually touching it. After 15 minutes remove it and let it cure for another hour or so. The evaporating acetone "melts" the print lines together.

40 minutes. Explains a lot.
 
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If you cure it with acetone, it'll be a lot stronger. Take an empty paint can, soak some rags in acetone and use magnets to stick the rags to the exterior walls of the can. Elevate the part and put the can over the part so that the rags aren't actually touching it. After 15 minutes remove it and let it cure for another hour or so. The evaporating acetone "melts" the print lines together.

Oh yah! I know all about it :)
 

groundscrapers

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Yah I used to work at GE and I saw those parts, they're really cool and REEEEEEEEALY expensive and only kinda half work.

But they just bought the company that prints in INCO 718 for them and it'll all go silent for the next 10-20 years if not more.

i hate you GE.

I'm in the process of sourcing a DMLS machine with a very large build bed.
 
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