Its ok , fun stuff.... Like i said i thought only the 22/45 came like that. I dont even know what the Mki,ii offered?
The bad news is that I had to go to the Intarweb Wayback Machine to see Ruger's photos of the
Mk III-generation models. They tossed a lot of content down the memory hole instead of
responsibly archiving it once the Mk IV came out.
The good news is that the stuff is at least surfable that way.
(Maybe there's a Ruger shrine somewhere that has captured all of the legacy data;
it's more likely for the Standard pistol product line than some other models).
My mkIII has been to the range 5 times since the mkIII hunter model came out. My wife used it 3 of 5 and slammed the mag home backwards ....hhmm a few times.
I've occasionally started a mag in to our Mk III 22/45 the wrong way,
but it's always been very obvious to me that something was wrong
and I never tried to slam it home.
I've just checked a few things on our plastic-framed Mk III 22/45:
I can see how a reversed-magazine's trigger re-seating window
comes very near the action's mag safety finger,
but a reversed 22/45 magazine's baseplate hits the bottom of the frame
before the finger can fall into the window,
so our model shouldn't be susceptible to lock-up.
(You could probably hammer a magazine in to lock-up,
but only by either putting a divot in the mag well,
or breaking off part of the magazine base plate).
It should be possible to to remove a 22/45 magazine's baseplate
even when seated (frontwise) or locked (backwards) in the magwell.
I don't know if a vanilla Mk III's magazine's baseplate can be removed
non-destructively. But at worst, chewing the baseplate out with vice grips is cheaper
than paying a gunsmith to do it. (And replacement baseplates are available
if the follower, spring and plunger are undamaged).
There's not a lot of room between the mag and the mag well in our
plastic-framed 22/45. One might be able to run a piece of coat-hanger wire
into the gap, but not most tools that come to mind.
But I think it'd be more effective to push the magazine safety finger out of the way
from inside the magazine than from between the magazine and magwell.
The very first flat-bladed screwdriver I pulled out of the kitchen tool drawer
looks like it's long enough and would fit inside an open-bottomed magazine.
The trick would be to run the tool end along the RH-aft corner (which is actually rounded)
of the magazine (looking as jammed in the gun),
and push RH-aft on the finger which is probably about 4 1/8"-4 1/4"
up from the lower end of the magazine sheet metal. A screwdriver is probably a better
tool than something flexible like a length of coat hanger wire, because the goal is to push
the finger
out of the magazine -
not to push it
up - it won't go up, because that direction
is what's locking the magazine in the frame. So the screwdriver handle is good
for leverage, and the screwdriver's stiff shaft is a bonus.
Finding the (re-)seating window on a non-jammed magazine is crucial to understanding
what the finger is caught on up inside the gun. The window is on the front-LH "corner"
of a non-reversed magazine; the little ports which expose a view of coil springs here:
Note that if the magazine safety finger is protruding far enough into the magazine,
it may not be able to shake out the topmost 1-2 rounds of ammo (or the follower,
if the jammed magazine was empty). However,
as long as you're oriented,
you'll be flailing around on the bullet end of the cartridge - not the primer rim.
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