Advice: To drill or not to drill...

[DemonChronicles]

...that is the question.

Stripped an Allen bolt on my KSG recently, front bolt of the rail.

I don't have any easy outs or epoxy on hand.

What's the best way to get it off in a pinch? I don't need the bolt, so I'm thinking that I should drill the head off and remove rail, then use vice grips to extract the bolt shaft.

Just received my Mesa Tactical rail today and itching to put it on.

Thoughts?


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[SJan]

for an Allen fastener you can hammer in an appropriate sized torx bit and use that to remove the fastener

 

[saltydude]

Always the last resort. Tapered head or cap screw? Tapered is a bitch. You can try a punch. Make a divot in the face then tap counter clockwise. Sometimes it breaks it free.
If everything else fails, use a drill the same size as the threaded hole. Good luck.

 

[DemonChronicles]

When I say it is in tight, it's an understatement. Plus they put a dab of thread lock on it as well.

I might give your suggestion a try before I warm up the drill press.




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[DemonChronicles]

Always the last resort. Tapered head or cap screw? Tapered is a bitch. You can try a punch. Make a divot in the face then tap counter clockwise. Sometimes it breaks it free.
If everything else fails, use a drill the same size as the threaded hole. Good luck.

Cap, not tapered.


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[saltydude]

Cap, not tapered.


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Ahh. Forget the punch then. All you can do is try to grab the OD.
Loctite? Oh man. Blue hopefully. Might have to warm it up.
A center cutting end mill will work better than a drill bit. Ideally you want to indicate the screw head. If you can't obviously center it as best as possible. Choking up on the tool shank will help as well. Make it as rigid as possible.

Wow long Thorton fight!

 

[kid_fisto]

They make screw extractors for this.

http://m.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html?utm_source=direct%2Fnot%20provided&utm_medium=mobile_redirect#.UxZ9mtNOnFo

 

[PaulD]

You can use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the head, then use a flat head screwdriver. That may or may not work depending what's around it.

 

[DemonChronicles]

Ahh. Forget the punch then. All you can do is try to grab the OD.
Loctite? Oh man. Blue hopefully. Might have to warm it up.
A center cutting end mill will work better than a drill bit. Ideally you want to indicate the screw head. If you can't obviously center it as best as possible. Choking up on the tool shank will help as well. Make it as rigid as possible.

Wow long Thorton fight!

Lol, that was a marathon!

Grabbing OD is not an option, it's in a slightly recessed hole (this is on the top rail).

Same goes for cutting a slot, not enough room, and I'd like to hold on to the stock rail just in case.

Btw, the Mesa rail is beautiful!!



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[ClickBoom]

for an Allen fastener you can hammer in an appropriate sized torx bit and use that to remove the fastener

This ~ With what heat you can put on it should work

Tim

 

[DemonChronicles]

Going to try the heat gun and Torx bit method.


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[saltydude]

Going to try the heat gun and Torx bit method.


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Go for it. Can't hurt to try every option first. However the only time I've had success with that method on a locktited bolt I've used one of those extractors you hit with a hammer. It shocks and twists in one motion.

 

[ClickBoom]

All you need is to get that first crack of the screw and you know it's on the way out, after that the loctite will make it slow to turn so keep the heat on it and take your time so the torx keeps it's grip, if you can put the piece in an oven at low temp for a while that should release it completely.

Tim

 

[shotgunwilly870]

3 things to try use a punch and a hammer put the opposite side on something hard and try to "shock" the threads loose a bit by hitting it with a hammer this will break the loctite with any luck, if that doesn't work then heat the nut carefully with one of those crack torch lighters they have a small precise flame careful not to melt anything, then you can try an impact driver with an Allen or torx bit you hit that with a hammer it spins loose while pushing down and shocking it, good luck

 

[ThePreBanMan]

Order a screw extractor on Amazon. Wait a couple days for it and do it right or you'll end up damaging something you don't want to.

 

[PaulR]

For the love of god Harbor Freight is good for disposables but PLEASE don't buy an extractor set or any other tool you need to count on to work properly from that crap hole.

First Rule of Harbor Freight: Cheap chinese tools in a pinch, just don't ever buy anything that has moving parts or gets plugged in from them.

 

[mac1911]

I think you will find the torx bit method better than those shitty screw extractors. You do need to find the tightest fitting torxbit though. If its blue loctite it shouldnt hold to tight. Blue locitite is only suposed to have enough strength to keep the part from vibrating appart.... I have had good luck heating up small screws with a soldering iron http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062738
good luck go slow, a little kroil to soak into the threads cant hurt either.

 

[ClickBoom]

For the love of god Harbor Freight is good for disposables but PLEASE don't buy an extractor set or any other tool you need to count on to work properly from that crap hole.

First Rule of Harbor Freight: Cheap chinese tools in a pinch, just don't ever buy anything that has moving parts or gets plugged in from them.

You got that right ~ Nothing but crap.

Tim

 

[icyclefar]

If cutting, hacking, pounding, torching, and grinding don't work, you could always try shooting it off.

or if you want to drive to Sharon, I've got all the proper tools

 

[DemonChronicles]

There's a reason that HF is cheap.


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[DemonChronicles]

UPDATE

The heat was what I should have used at the first sign of trouble, it definitely loosened up whatever adhesive they put on it.

Did the Torx bit route. Used my brass hammer to tap it in, heated it up with a heat gun, then just used a RoboGrip to turn the bit, which came out very easily.

Thanks guys. The new rail is happy on it's new home.


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[Coyote33]

You can use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the head, then use a flat head screwdriver. That may or may not work depending what's around it.

Exactly what I was going to say.

 

[turbo38gn]

UPDATE

The heat was what I should have used at the first sign of trouble, it definitely loosened up whatever adhesive they put on it.

Did the Torx bit route. Used my brass hammer to tap it in, heated it up with a heat gun, then just used a RoboGrip to turn the bit, which came out very easily.

Thanks guys. The new rail is happy on it's new home.


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How bout some pictures.....

 

[ClickBoom]

Awesome

The NES A Team

Tim

 

[DemonChronicles]

Exactly what I was going to say.

As I said in one of the posts, a Dremel was not an option for this particular bolt.


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[DemonChronicles]

How bout some pictures.....

Absolutely, I'll take a few tonight after work.


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[turbo38gn]

Absolutely, I'll take a few tonight after work.


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Kewl, I'd like to see your set up. I bought the UTAS-15.. like it lots, but still may buy a KSG since the price has come down below $900.

 

[DemonChronicles]

Kewl, I'd like to see your set up. I bought the UTAS-15.. like it lots, but still may buy a KSG since the price has come down below $900.

I was on the fence for awhile, was leaning towards a UTAS but not overly excited by it.

Then I saw, held and shot the KSG in person.

For me, it was a no brainier choice in favor of the KSG.

It's compactness, it's weight, and it's feel when shooting were all better than the UTAS (again, for me).

Like them both, but only needed one.




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[turbo38gn]

I hit em both myself, decided on functionality, loading and the price point at the time to be a no brainer for me... but now that the price has come down to earth.,. like I said.. a KSG may find it way into my home. If one is good .... more is better..... I love options

 

[DemonChronicles]

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