AK-47/74 Build Party 2015 - It's Official

Will we be getting our shirts on the build day or will they be shipped to us to wear on build day?
You will all get them on the day of the build. They will be shipped as a complete order to one address, not individually to everybody.

In case one hook breaks? [laugh] let me know as soon as that happens.

Hey, I said "IF" hahaha... I would never expect that either though.
 
Truthfully, none, You'd never even know the difference without popping the dust cover off and looking inside.

In case one hook breaks? [laugh] let me know as soon as that happens.
I found one in my kit, and swapped into my psl . I just found after polishing that trigger it was little less gritty.

Wouldn't it already being heat treated make it to hard to drill? Just asking as I know applying heat to metal hardens it and hardened metal can be hard to drill. This will be my first build so idk if I'm right or wrong when it comes to the receivers. Also, what kind of paint should be used to coat my receiver?

I'll bring a few that will laugh at the heat treating .
 
Wouldn't it already being heat treated make it to hard to drill? Just asking as I know applying heat to metal hardens it and hardened metal can be hard to drill. This will be my first build so idk if I'm right or wrong when it comes to the receivers. Also, what kind of paint should be used to coat my receiver?
I have carbide bits that can make quick work of that. Does anyone have a grinder/hone for drill bits they can bring? You have to touch up the bits after every hole.

I use Krylon camo in several layers, you could also try cold bluing, but that may involve too much work and messiness.
 
7.62x39 I tried to send you a pm but you need to make some space. I just have a few questions that I hope you can help with

Evidently my payment did not make it in time LOL

As soon as Derek receives my renewal (mailed Thursday) and turns my green back on, you will be able to PM me.
 
I have a bench grinder and wire wheel that I can bring. I just have to look to see if the wheel are any good or if I need to replace them before the party.

also, should I paint my receiver the day of or bring it already painted? im thinking the day of as it needs to be welded. I will try to get it welded before I do. does anyone have a rail alignment jig I can borrow when my receiver comes in? or is there another way to align the rails?
I have carbide bits that can make quick work of that. Does anyone have a grinder/hone for drill bits they can bring? You have to touch up the bits after every hole.

I use Krylon camo in several layers, you could also try cold bluing, but that may involve too much work and messiness.
 
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also, should I paint my receiver the day of or bring it already painted? im thinking the day of as it needs to be welded. I will try to get it welded before I do. does anyone have a rail alignment jig I can borrow when my receiver comes in? or is there another way to align the rails?

Do not paint it until it is finished.

Clamp your front trunnion in place, just mount it flush with the front. That will be close enough for this. You really need a set of letter drills to do this , fractional sets do not offer enough sizes to be accurate enough.

Start with a "C" bit, that will get you close. Lay it in between the bottom of the upper rail and the top of the lower rail. This will make sure that the upper and lower rails are parallel. Try different size bits until you find the one that aligns the lower rail with the shelf of the trunnion, exactly.

Clamp and weld.
 
Do not paint it until it is finished.

Clamp your front trunnion in place, just mount it flush with the front. That will be close enough for this. You really need a set of letter drills to do this , fractional sets do not offer enough sizes to be accurate enough.

Start with a "C" bit, that will get you close. Lay it in between the bottom of the upper rail and the top of the lower rail. This will make sure that the upper and lower rails are parallel. Try different size bits until you find the one that aligns the lower rail with the shelf of the trunnion, exactly.

Clamp and weld.
I have a big set of letter A-Z, #1-60, 1/16"-1/2", but...they are HF, not sure how they will keep an edge.
 
I will be bringing the Harbor Freight welder with AKBuilder tips. If you get the Childers Guns 80% heat treated receiver and rails, you'll be good to go. We'll align/weld the rails and drill the holes in a matter of minutes. Think about if you're going to paint or blue your 80% receiver because you'll need to do that before assembly.

I have the AK-builder receiver blank drilling fixture and the rail alignment fixture that I could bring if you think they are useful. I might be interested in welding rails in an 80% receiver if time allows. Let me know.
 
I think the idea is for everyone to have a 100% receiver to expedite the build process given the number of people building that day. I will be bringing a 100% receiver for my build. I just chimed in when I read EvilDragon's offer to weld rails in with his spot welder.
 
Have to agree with warwickben... I don't mind if people want to build 80% receivers, but you take last place in line to build at that point. It will be an assembly line. We can probably deal with a few 80% receivers, but we can't be having a majority like that. I'd rather none at all... I'm a trooper and will go all day into the night, but I'm not speaking for everybody else, and other people are brining tools and probably don't want to live at my house til the next day.
 
Think he's taking about drilling the receiver.

I hope not, since none of those 3 drill sets will help him there.
They are metric 5mm & 7mm for the FCG & 4mm for rivets. The rivet holes you can use 5/32, but there is no fudging the FCG holes. Ideally, done with a ream, but drill bit will work.
 
I hope not, since none of those 3 drill sets will help him there.
They are metric 5mm & 7mm for the FCG & 4mm for rivets. The rivet holes you can use 5/32, but there is no fudging the FCG holes. Ideally, done with a ream, but drill bit will work.

I got the reamers . Few of the builds I've helped with the holes for the trigger pins needed to be reamed open. I forget if it was just paint.

how are you guys heat treating you receivers

Mapp gas and spot heat treat the holes And the extractor tip. Water or water brine mix works for most 80% . Some people use oil.
but for the metal there made from you want a quick quench vs a slow oil quench /adding carbon from the oil .
When I first heated treated a 80% I looked yup heat treating for the metal and my machinist hand book called out water.

For most home builders trying to heat treat the whole thing you'll warp the shit out of it.

After you spot heat treat it . Toss it in the oven for 1-2 hours to temper it 450-500 f.
I like a dumb ass covered the thing in lube so it wouldn't rust. I used frog lube lol. Turned in to a thick hard coating I had to chip off. Just heat treat and toss on oven so it won't rust.

Heat treat with water will make it start rusting in the heat zone of you don't oil it after. Tempering will stop the rusting but if for some reason you have to wait oil it with some real oil not frog lube shit.
 
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I hope not, since none of those 3 drill sets will help him there.
They are metric 5mm & 7mm for the FCG & 4mm for rivets. The rivet holes you can use 5/32, but there is no fudging the FCG holes. Ideally, done with a ream, but drill bit will work.
Well... Good info. And now I'm not sure what he may have been getting at. Maybe a misunderstanding on what bits are used for what. Anyways, your help is appreciated. You're welcome to join us if you'd like. Everybody could use the info and experience you have...
 
Ok folks, receivers:

1. The best option is to come with a complete receiver, you will only need to drill the front/rear trunnion holes and ideally the center support already comes installed.
2. For the 80% receivers you have to weld the rails, heat treat the receiver and TRIM THE UPPER RAILS. The trimming parts could take a long time, as you want to be careful not to **** anything up. In particular with hardened Childers Guns receivers, the trimming can take a very long time.

What's the better choice? Legally you have to register your receiver with the state anyway and the NSA has you marked for termination just by having an LTC, so I wouldn't bother with an 80% "so nobody can track it" and just go with a standard 100% receiver. They can track it and you should only build an 80% receiver because you really want to and are willing to invest the time.

Oh and paint the receiver once you've done everything before riveting.
 
Legally you have to register your receiver with the state anyway and the NSA has you marked for termination just by having an LTC, so I wouldn't bother with an 80% "so nobody can track it" and just go with a standard 100% receiver.


This is just plain wrong.

I don't know how else to say it:

Once fully assembled, the firearm needs to be FA10'd. The receiver may stay as a receiver forever and never get FA10'd if it is never assembled.
 
You're not drilling anything, you are just using the drill bit as a spacer.
Gotcha, well if anyone needs a bit for spacing, this kit will have it ! ;). I have the 7mm and 5mm reamers, and a couple 7mm drill bits and the 5/32 one all from AK Builders. This is gonna be a blast. Hopefully with all the experience and knowledge of some of you guys the whole day will go smoothly.
 
Mapp gas and spot heat treat the holes And the extractor tip. Water or water brine mix works for most 80% . Some people use oil.
but for the metal there made from you want a quick quench vs a slow oil quench /adding carbon from the oil

not vodka?
 
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