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Anyone familiar with ALG Defense Quality Mil Spec Trigger-QMS-Tuned By Geissele?

I have 2 of them and they are a nice improvement over a standard fire control group that won't break the bank. Very little to no creep, crisp break and still keeps the mil spec pull weight. IMO you can't go wrong with it.
 
I have the ACT in my SBR and its a great single stage trigger. the trigger in my QD lower reminds me of their QMS but its just a regular milspec trigger (just worn in nicely).

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Picked up my LPK through WOA which included the ALG Quality Mil-Spec Trigger
http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17874&cat=283&page=1

For a mil-spec/single stage trigger, this is better than the 2 others I have tried, one of which was a RRA. The other I didnt know.

I promptly got rid of my RRA trigger after installing their LPK...horrible trigger. I actually installed the RRA LPK in my QD lower...hated the trigger. Ordered the ACT. Installed that into my SBR and reused the worn in milspec trigger in my QD.

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Looks decent if you don't want to do the work yourself. You CAN do that yourself with a small amount of work/effort (and less spent). I've done it to FCG's turning gritty nightmares into triggers smooth as silk. Getting rid of the creep can also be done for very short money. Just a matter of IF you want to know how to do it yourself, or pay more to have had someone else do it for you. Personally, I'd rather know how to do it myself.
 
Looks decent if you don't want to do the work yourself. You CAN do that yourself with a small amount of work/effort (and less spent). I've done it to FCG's turning gritty nightmares into triggers smooth as silk. Getting rid of the creep can also be done for very short money. Just a matter of IF you want to know how to do it yourself, or pay more to have had someone else do it for you. Personally, I'd rather know how to do it myself.

I thought about tinkering with the RRA trig I removed but the idea of f-ing something up bad always stops me.

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I thought about tinkering with the RRA trig I removed but the idea of f-ing something up bad always stops me.

I used diamond paste (6 micron through 1 micron) and a piece of leather to do the job. You go slow, checking periodically, and it's no issue. I wouldn't use a file or sandpaper on it since you can easily remove too much that way. The compound/leather combination made it so that it just removed the peaks from the metal, smoothing the contact surfaces.
 
I did the trigger on a 10/22, but am not so sure on one of these. Does anyone have some detailed instructions? I thought AR triggers were one place you were not supposed to mess around on these guns.
 
I did the trigger on a 10/22, but am not so sure on one of these. Does anyone have some detailed instructions? I thought AR triggers were one place you were not supposed to mess around on these guns.

Where did you hear that?? You can do plenty with the FCG on AR's. Easiest is to lap/hone the contact points. Then there's changing the springs to allow for lighter pull weights. You can also do the 50 cent trigger job, which removes pretty much all the take-up on the trigger.
 
Again, DETAILED directions would be nice. I don't think I'd get into changing springs, but a little polishing probably wouldn't hurt, if it isn't too involved. Remember what we're dealing with here, and if we wanted competition triggers, we'd BUY competition triggers. Just a slight improvement over "stock" is fine and dandy.
 
Increasing the lock time just to lower the trigger weight is a bad trade off. Precision shooters strive to get the fastest possible lock time. Not to mention the increased possibility of having a light strike. There are better ways to lighten the pull without going to lighter weight springs.
 
I put the ALG trigger in all my new builds and have swapped out all my older ones sans 3, they have JPs or geissele's. As said before it's and inexpensive upgrade.
 
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