Anyone know how to restore gun finishes?

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

I have an M1816 Springfield that originally had a bright finish, but over the course of almost 200 years, I assume that it's accrued surface rust & light pitting, though I can not tell because it is now mostly black & I have no idea whatsoever if it turned black on it's own, or if some idiot who owned it before me decided to coat it, but then again, when I'm looking for parts online, I see black buttplates, even when these were originally bright?. I've seen nickle finish turn black, but not so sure the springfields with bright finish were nickle. Anyway, what do you reccomend to remove the black & to restore or clean up the metal?

 

[SKS Ray]

Tough working on older guns like that because almost anything can damage collectable value.
My method of preserving/cleaning up any old milsurp is 00 steel wool and Break Free oil. Not sure if it will work for you if someone did paint the gun, but it will clean any surface rust up and protect it.

 

[TheFaz]

That bright finish on Springfields was just bare metal, so of course it would discolor over time, there is no protection for the metal. In the case of a collectible like an 1816 Springfield, your best option is to do nothing. Put a very thin coat of paste wax over the metal and wood to create an oxygen barrier, and leave it alone. Anything you do will only reduce the value.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

That bright finish on Springfields was just bare metal, so of course it would discolor over time, there is no protection for the metal. In the case of a collectible like an 1816 Springfield, your best option is to do nothing. Put a very thin coat of paste wax over the metal and wood to create an oxygen barrier, and leave it alone. Anything you do will only reduce the value.

Would it turn black though? I've seen them turn brownish or rust color but not black, so was not sure if it was painted or coated by a previous owner or not. Also, I can't find the barrel markings & thought maybe this coating might be hiding it somewhere. I took it apart & all the parts are black, which makes me think someone coated them, & in spots where it's not black, I see the bright finish, although not so bright. I just thought that if it was an added coating that I'd want to remove it.. I'd rather have an original surface rusted barrel than a nice clean looking one that's been coated with something that should not be there.

Any way to tell if it's supposed to be black or if it's coated.

 

[Cato]

Would it turn black though? I've seen them turn brownish or rust color but not black, so was not sure if it was painted or coated by a previous owner or not. Also, I can't find the barrel markings & thought maybe this coating might be hiding it somewhere. I took it apart & all the parts are black, which makes me think someone coated them, & in spots where it's not black, I see the bright finish, although not so bright. I just thought that if it was an added coating that I'd want to remove it.. I'd rather have an original surface rusted barrel than a nice clean looking one that's been coated with something that should not be there.

Any way to tell if it's supposed to be black or if it's coated.

AW, ask the experts over here: http://www.antiqueguns.com/pushpin/src/bbs.cgi?AA012A5DDF::I::000001

I used to get involved in a lot of the auctions here a few years ago when I had antique fever. They will get right back to you with an answer.

 

[Moderator]

Bluing is an acquired skill and takes practice, I am far from perfect on it. If you are looking at this rifle for collector purposes I wouldn't change a thing on it. If you just want to keep it for your own pleasure and want it to look real sharp then that is different.

In the past I have used blue removers to remove the old stuff. Be careful with them, once you put it on the old blue is coming. There is no turning back. Also be sure that you have time to protect the metal after you do this, if this is going to be a spare time project you don't want it to rust up on you.

I then use 0000 steel wool to smooth the metal and use a de-grease to take any foreign oils off the metal prior to applying the blue.

I like to warm the metal before adding the blue (dip the metal in hot water and fully dry), It seams to work a little better for me. When applying the blue I use a soft bristle tooth brush to rub the blue in. I always use at least 3 coats of blue using the 0000 wool in between. When finished I use a light oil to help seal the blue in. This is just my way, I have heard of many others. I usually use Birchwood Casey perma blue.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

Bluing is an acquired skill and takes practice, I am far from perfect on it. If you are looking at this rifle for collector purposes I wouldn't change a thing on it. If you just want to keep it for your own pleasure and want it to look real sharp then that is different.

In the past I have used blue removers to remove the old stuff. Be careful with them, once you put it on the old blue is coming. There is no turning back. Also be sure that you have time to protect the metal after you do this, if this is going to be a spare time project you don't want it to rust up on you.

I then use 0000 steel wool to smooth the metal and use a de-grease to take any foreign oils off the metal prior to applying the blue.

I like to warm the metal before adding the blue (dip the metal in hot water and fully dry), It seams to work a little better for me. When applying the blue I use a soft bristle tooth brush to rub the blue in. I always use at least 3 coats of blue using the 0000 wool in between. When finished I use a light oil to help seal the blue in. This is just my way, I have heard of many others. I usually use Birchwood Casey perma blue.

I never tried to do my own blueing, but after reading this, I think I want to try your way on an old rusty blade I have.

As far as my Springfield goes, I just wanted to remove whatever's been added to it, but after alot more reading & asking questions, it is possible that the parts are supposed to be black. I've completely unassemble the whole thing & examined every single part with magnafying glasses & found marks & things I did not even know where there before. Kind of too bad that they're so faint & faded. I can't even make out stock cartouches they're barely recognizable. I was hoping my barrel was dated 1816, but was 1826, but hey, at least now I know because before, I couldn't see it til I got real close with magnafying glasses.