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AR builds

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I've been looking around, and while I would like to build one from scratch, I seem to be able to get a better deal on a complete lower that I am able to purchase a stripped lower and a parts kit. Is this generally the case, or am I just looking at the wrong sites?
 
Yes it is cheaper to buy complete but building your own gives you the advantage of upgrading the parts without paying for the stock ones you are not going to use.
 
What parts would one normally want to upgrade?

In the lower, mainly the trigger. From there, it depends on the use. If you don't have to conform to NRA or CMP Service Rifle guidlines, then a bigger mag release or maybe an extended bolt release.
 
it really depends on what you want out of the rifle. Building one, you get to pick the specific parts based on your needs, if you don't have specific needs then get a complete lower.
 
I have built two ARs from the ground up and am delighted with the results. Both group just over 2 inches at 300 yds for five shots. I didn't save any money, but I got exactly what I wanted. Use quality parts; I bought all of my parts from Brownells. Stay away from the cheapo kits in the SGN.
 
Buying a complete rifle is cheaper than building your own from scratch, but the reward, fun and learning experience is worth the added cost.

When you say building from "scratch", does that include building the upper yourself? Figure in the cost of a decent barrel nut wrench, receiver block and barrel vise block. Build instructions usually call for a torque wrench, but that you can rent for free from AutoZone.

You can save some $$$ by buying some parts on the AR15.com EE boards... http://www.ar15.com/forums/board.html?b=7
 
If you get a complete rifle, you pay the 11% tax on the total of the rifle. If you get the parts, you pay the 11% on the lower receiver.
 
If you get a complete rifle, you pay the 11% tax on the total of the rifle. If you get the parts, you pay the 11% on the lower receiver.

However... there is no excise tax is paid on a stripped receiver...

(is an assembled lower minus any other parts taxable?)

Excise tax is not imposed on the separate sale or
use of firearm component parts, including a frame
or receiver; however, the sale or use of firearms
in a knockdown condition (unassembled but complete
as to all component parts) is taxable. However,
under the GCA a frame or receiver is a firearm.[/url]

http://www.ttb.gov/fet/faetinfo.pdf

Technically, since the excise tax rates are different for a handgun
(10% vs 11% for a long arm), it would be difficult for the ATF to set the appropriate tax rate on a stripped receiver since it could be assembled into a handgun or long arm.
 
Ahh... once you use a nice aftermarket trigger... like the JP, you won't want a stock one ever again.
 
Ahh... once you use a nice aftermarket trigger... like the JP, you won't want a stock one ever again.

I have an RRA 2-stage trigger in my A2 and couldn't be happier with it.

For a cheap DIY trigger I'd recomend this...

http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

I've done it with my other 2 ARs and the difference is amazing. Not up to the standard or quality of an after market drop-in trigger, but for a quick inexpensive modification it's worth a try. If you mess it up or are unhappy with the results, all it takes is two inexpensive springs to restore it back to the original set-up.
 
Buying a complete rifle is cheaper than building your own from scratch, but the reward, fun and learning experience is worth the added cost.

When you say building from "scratch", does that include building the upper yourself? Figure in the cost of a decent barrel nut wrench, receiver block and barrel vise block. Build instructions usually call for a torque wrench, but that you can rent for free from AutoZone.

You can save some $$$ by buying some parts on the AR15.com EE boards... http://www.ar15.com/forums/board.html?b=7


All you really need is the barrel nut wrench, you can use wood blocks to hold the upper and the final torque is determined by the position of the barrel nut. It has to be aligned with the upper so the gas tube will fit. I once watched a friend of mine assemble an upper on his glass living room coffee table. That upper went on to shoot 2 inch groups at 300 yds.
 
I guess I have just been looking into getting at least another lower for a while now, and it has to do with potential bans on these types of rifles in the future.

As I would only be looking at the lower right now, down the road I might like to have the experience building both the upper and lower from scratch.

So, what dealers do you all prefer working with for buying AR components?
 
I guess I have just been looking into getting at least another lower for a while now, and it has to do with potential bans on these types of rifles in the future.

As I would only be looking at the lower right now, down the road I might like to have the experience building both the upper and lower from scratch.

So, what dealers do you all prefer working with for buying AR components?

Brownells. Great selection and fantastic customer service; if you don't like it, just return it. As I said in an earlier post "Beware the cheapo kits in the SGN".
 
I have stripped lowers for sale (FFL Transfer)$ 105.00 + Shipping
I also have stripped or complete uppers.
Will build to your spec's or supply completed stock uppers.
All AR15 build parts available and build assistance/instruction is available.
I am a Stag Arms Dealer - I can save you $$$$ on Stag components.
contact me for prices.
1-413-575--0546
[email protected]
 
JDL sales do you have a store? location? (I am in the springfield area.)

Adam if you ever need help or tools to put an AR together let me know I can help.
 
Not really, a lot of internet, however I am doing some stuff out of my house until I put a place together. Right now to order or by order. I will be retiring from my real job at the end of the year.
Contact me and we can make arrangements.
Just a note I will be leaving for Ireland tomorrow on vacation and wont be back until the 15th.
Think about what you need and give me a call or email me at [email protected].
Thanks
John
 
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