AR9 barrel nut grease

Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Messages
44
Likes
21
Location
Norwood, MA
Feedback: 15 / 0 / 0
So this will be my first build.

I'm up in Maine and getting ready to assemble this morning. What I have available is a pot of trusty Lubriplate No. 130-A. Any thoughts on its suitability for the outside of the barrel, inside the receiver sleeve and on the barrel nut threads?

If its NOT OK, why and what else would anyone recommend?

Thanks!
 
I use anti-seize on barrel nuts. I'm sure the lubriplate will work fine to install but I'd be concerned about its long term result assuming exposure to heat.

Why lube anything other than the threads?
 
I think it is stable long term with respect to heat.

with respect to where to apply it - it was suggested to me to apply it all over - but again this is my first build so what the heck do I know!
 
Probably OK either way. I've had better luck with anti-seize when it's difficult to get the holes timed for the gas tube and some extra oomph is necessary.

Personally I'd leave the barrel extension and receiver dry. You really don't want grease inside an AR. It's going to collect gunk and will be more effort to clean than the usual oil lubes for the BCG etc.
 
I think almost any grease will do.
Anti seize can be used also-- I prefer the molybdenum disulfide and graphite based anti seize products but im always a bit weary of graphite and aluminum amd all the other metals in the anti seize having some sort of galvanic reaction..... I have a tub of red "marine" wheel bearing grease. I put that shit on everything!

al though this stuff smells like a combo of Alox and Cosmoline I spray it on most things metal.
 
I’ve used antiseize, moly lube, general grease etc. Umm.....I’ve had zero problems. Sorry [wink]

yup , I hear this from people daily “I haven’t had any problems”

but I also see the people that have Had the problems and catastrophic failures

you’ve been lucky .... so far

but that could change at any time
 
I use regular moly grease... or if you have it, marine grade anti-seize- holds up to i think over 1500 degrees, and it has no metal embedded it it, and it prevents galvanic corrosion, which you could get if you have a steel barrel/nut connected to an aluminum upper. I don't think that's a problem anyway.
 
yup , I hear this from people daily “I haven’t had any problems”

but I also see the people that have Had the problems and catastrophic failures

you’ve been lucky .... so far

but that could change at any time
Lots of guns. Never a catastrophic failure. Maybe I’m lucky. I’ll keep doing what I’m doing
 
Last edited:
you know JCG designed the M1 to run with out lube ;)

Yeah, the Turks must have read that. The Field Grade Turkish return I got from the CMP was in reality barely a Rack Grade and had apparently had a long post war service life lubricated by nothing more than dust and sand. [rofl] It was OK for an organ donor and the Italian Stallion was able to get a bolt to headspace. Correct lube, wrong lube, no lube- no problem for a M1 in any environment. I've shot mine accurately at over 100F degrees and as cold as minus 7F with the Mobil 1 grease. Lubriplate and other traditional greases will still work at low temps in a M1, but they will affect accuracy- at least based on my experience plus what I have read. AR's are much more picky for lube and cleaning. I like Remoil for a lot of applications but once it gets closer to zero degrees it gets gummy and will stop an AR from functioning.
 
Yeah, the Turks must have read that. The Field Grade Turkish return I got from the CMP was in reality barely a Rack Grade and had apparently had a long post war service life lubricated by nothing more than dust and sand. [rofl] It was OK for an organ donor and the Italian Stallion was able to get a bolt to headspace. Correct lube, wrong lube, no lube- no problem for a M1 in any environment. I've shot mine accurately at over 100F degrees and as cold as minus 7F with the Mobil 1 grease. Lubriplate and other traditional greases will still work at low temps in a M1, but they will affect accuracy- at least based on my experience plus what I have read. AR's are much more picky for lube and cleaning. I like Remoil for a lot of applications but once it gets closer to zero degrees it gets gummy and will stop an AR from functioning.
I keep a water spray bottle handy, i hear how ARs like to run wet.

My AR gets abused, enough "oil" to keep rust at bay is all I use.
M1 gets some bengay in the joints.
 
Anti-Seize, or a good Moly grease, or if you want to buy the official barrel assembly grease. I recently removed a barrel I assembled with Moly grease and there was still grease on the threads. You only really need grease on the barrel threads for the barrel nut so it doesn't gall and seize up on you. Some light oil is good for split pins or solid pins when installing, and a drop of oil in the detents. I have switched to Slip EWL and Slip EWL 30 for all gun lubrication, I was extremely impressed with it after using a sample.
 
I keep a water spray bottle handy, i hear how ARs like to run wet.

My AR gets abused, enough "oil" to keep rust at bay is all I use.
M1 gets some bengay in the joints.
LOL do they make jars of Bengay? I'll put my Mobile 1 in an old Bemgay jar.
 
Like I read on another forum "Anti Seize is just grease with a bunch of other stuff in it"

I did a barrel the other week and used anti seize for the barrel nut and also the the barrel extension.

Don't overthink this one..
 
yup , I hear this from people daily “I haven’t had any problems”

but I also see the people that have Had the problems and catastrophic failures

you’ve been lucky .... so far

but that could change at any time
OK I'll ask, what kind of problems can arise if you don't use the proper grease and what makes it better than others?
 
OK I'll ask, what kind of problems can arise if you don't use the proper grease and what makes it better than others?
No grease, the metal surfaces can get damaged, your running a steel nut on aluminum. You can get false tight feeling and also you can over torque with grease.
Theres nothing really wrong with out grease especially if you dont intend to take it apart ever.
Theres nothing wrong with putting some type of oil or grease either.
Heck good old 3in1 and vasaline will do!
I know a few AR match shooters that loctite the barrel extension and nut, when they need a new barrel they either give the uppet away or just junk it.
 
No grease, the metal surfaces can get damaged, your running a steel nut on aluminum. You can get false tight feeling and also you can over torque with grease.
Theres nothing really wrong with out grease especially if you dont intend to take it apart ever.
Theres nothing wrong with putting some type of oil or grease either.
Heck good old 3in1 and vasaline will do!
I know a few AR match shooters that loctite the barrel extension and nut, when they need a new barrel they either give the uppet away or just junk it.

you are correct in every way

the problem comes with the incorrect grease , any grease with graphite or any metals ( like anti seize) and your risking compromising the anodize barrier between the aluminum Receiver and steel barrel extension , you are also introducing a 3rd Potentially dissimilar material which can aid and accelerate corrosion
 
you are correct in every way

the problem comes with the incorrect grease , any grease with graphite or any metals ( like anti seize) and your risking compromising the anodize barrier between the aluminum Receiver and steel barrel extension , you are also introducing a 3rd Potentially dissimilar material which can aid and accelerate corrosion
Yeah thats why If I do use grease its that old tub if red high temp marine grease my dad gave me when I was like 12 when I started racing MotoX .
More times than not I dont lube threads unless directed to do so.
Depending on barrel nut design i will put a light coat of that red grease between the barrel nut and forward part of barrel.
My recent install with a heavy barrel put the clearance barrel to nut very close. So I qtip swabbed a coat of thin grease so the barrel nut rotates smoothly on the barrel.
 
Mineral oil and Molybdenum Disulfide , little lithium and thickner.. $12 for .5oz is crazy.
Im not sure if it matters but aero shell 64 has a flash point of 650'F.
Unless you plan on taking your upper apart often there is no real need for grease. If i need a barrel replaced due to wear. Well I could most likely afford a new upper receiver also.
i do use a touch of high temp wheel bearing grease where the barrel nut meets the barrel flange and hit the threads ever so slightly.

its all good.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom