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Argentine and Swedish Mauser Reloading

Broc

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I have both. I have had them for a few years. I shot them a few times and want to shoot them more.

I want to start reloading for both.

Can you share your load data for each?
Are you shooting cast bullets?
Is there a bullet weight you recommend?
How is the accuracy of your reloads?

Edit: I probably should have started 2 separate threads.
 
Recently picked up a Swede M96 on the cheap recently-

Old Beater Swede- How Will it Shoot? Here are my loads and results w/ iron sights at 100 yards:

Nosler RDF 140's seated to 3.050". - Varget 34.0 grn --> 1.7" group 100 yds

H4895 34.0 grn pushing Nosler 140 RDF's seems to do OK:
DgiSqj8l.jpg

1.581" - .264" = 1.317" 5-shot 100 yard group. I can't shoot irons at 100 yards much better than that and nice to find a sweet spot for proj's that I had on hand. Nice easy shooting load.

I also have some Hornady 123 ELD's which shoot very well in my 6.5 Man Bun (Creedmoor) AR but are definitely a step downward in accuracy for the Swede.
 
The 6.5 lends itself to problems with cast loads. The leads are LONG on these old rifles the twist rate is very fast so the heaviest, longest cast bullet tou can find that fits your lead would be your best bet.

i will be stuffing some cast loads through mine once I get my bullet sizer.
Was thinking about this mold

I have a 8mm mauser project in the weeds right so molds will have to wait

6.5 swede FMJ
Im going to say with the long lead these tend to have again the longest bullet with the most bearing surface might be the way to go.
I picked up enough hornady 140s and Barnes 140s to have some some fun. Been using Norma MRP
I have not done much of any load testing I cut the hi/low data in the middle and been playing there so far.
I dont shoot as well as Mountain and Im not sure how are rifles compare but Im floating around +3 moa with my eyes probably keeping this rifle from at least 2 moa. Shot today but the lighting was awful with that sun so low and in your eyes.

im loading my 6.5 bullets to as long as the mag will feed them and they are still miles off the lands

im not up on whats better for these old rifles, slow powder or fast powders.
Right now Im taking advice from a friends dad who is a swede and shot the target rifle version of the M96 for years. He claims you want to use the slowest powder with complete burn vs the fast powders with higher chamber pressure and burning up the powder early.
his words, “they like a good steady push vs a swift kick in the ass”
I have no idea but he suggested RL22 and Norma
Im setting up for 100-200 yards. So I dont think I need to velocity to get the accuracy I need
 
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Just got my custom sizer and top punch for the 6.5 swede.
Will be seating fas checks on norms coated unduzed 150gn 6.5s
I had “hollow” top punches sent so I can use epoxy to custom mold to the bullet nose
image.jpg image.jpg And it works gas check sizes right to .268 the bullets are only a smidge over .267” so the sizer does not really hit the bullets.
I just noticed my lee seating die dies not crimp so I need a FCD

Another little use for a bore scope. Using my Hornady OAL length gauge I can just make out when the bullet touches the lands/groves as it give a little twist/rotation. This bullet is design to be fat up front just for these long throats.


View: https://youtu.be/LgIWOJNKEG0
 
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I have a couple of Swedish Mausers and they're very accurate. I shoot Sierra 120 or 140 grain or Hornday 129 grain. For powder I use H380 or AA2520. I haven't shot cast yet but have some Gardner's Cache 170 grain coated gas check loaded with 16 grains of 2400. That charge has worked well in every other military caliber I've tried. The Swedish Mauser has proven capable of 1 moa @ 300 yards with the original sights. I'd like to take credit for that but I can't. It was done by a young shooter with better eyes than me.
 
0C6BFD4A-0F86-44B5-BC23-2C2555D4E4C3.jpeg With this new front sight rough calculations Im shooting about 25” low! Will try to get out and test it. Right now rough calculation has me shaving .135” off right from the start.
I would love to find original +2.5 sight

this brownells sight is not exactly made right. Looks a bit off once fit to use.
Not enough metal in some spots and to much in others. Good enough for target work
 
Just got my custom sizer and top punch for the 6.5 swede.
Will be seating fas checks on norms coated unduzed 150gn 6.5s
I had “hollow” top punches sent so I can use epoxy to custom mold to the bullet nose
View attachment 428219View attachment 428226And it works gas check sizes right to .268 the bullets are only a smidge over .267” so the sizer does not really hit the bullets.
I just noticed my lee seating die dies not crimp so I need a FCD

Another little use for a bore scope. Using my Hornady OAL length gauge I can just make out when the bullet touches the lands/groves as it give a little twist/rotation. This bullet is design to be fat up front just for these long throats.


View: https://youtu.be/LgIWOJNKEG0

Is that for a Star sizer?
 
Is that for a Star sizer?
Lyman 450/4500
IIRC There is a guy on cast bullets who makes custom sizers for star.
Lathesmith on castboolits did my lyman dies.

turns out he does star also
 
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I'm amazed over how fine a shooter my mongrel m1891 Cavalry Carbine is; same for the m1896 I have.
I won't get into any specific loads, because I go all over the place, based on bullet and powder availability.
Norm's 6.5mm 150 gr bullet works well, as do my own cast Lyman 266469s. The 105gr frangibles are fun on steel in the 7.65 Argentine (so easy to make brass from unwanted .270 etc.)...
 

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I'm amazed over how fine a shooter my mongrel m1891 Cavalry Carbine is; same for the m1896 I have.
I won't get into any specific loads, because I go all over the place, based on bullet and powder availability.
Norm's 6.5mm 150 gr bullet works well, as do my own cast Lyman 266469s. The 105gr frangibles are fun on steel in ther 7.65 Argentine (so easy to make brass from unwanted .270 etc.)...
Nice, norm had the 140s so i tried them first. First 10 round test was not bad or great. 50 yards for about 4 moa. I wonder if the 50s with a much large bore riding design will do better?
I did a casting of my sweded and its a touch over .266" so a mold dropping a . 268" would be nice.
 
99143265-5A4F-47C1-A48E-282526175FB3.jpeg First 10 rounds
140gn gas checked
16gn 2400 lee dipper method
Wolf LR
PPU case
Bullet seated to lyman manual.
I might try seating longer although I dont think there is much room left from lymans data.
Not good , not bad
 
Haven't loaded much for my 1891 Argentine but one load that showed promise was the 174gr Hornady RN #3130 over 39.5gr IMR4064. It's a pretty mild load but it shot quite well out of my Argentine.

I haven't messed with 6.5x55 too much but for my Swede I run 140gr Match bullets (usually Hornady) over 41gr Reloder 22. It's a pretty light load but it shoots very well (for me....YMMV). I believe the consensus over on Gunboards is that the sweet spot is around 44gr of RL22 with a 140gr bullet....but don't quote me on that....it's been a while since I've dug around for 6.5 Swede loads.
 
I'm amazed over how fine a shooter my mongrel m1891 Cavalry Carbine is; same for the m1896 I have.
I won't get into any specific loads, because I go all over the place, based on bullet and powder availability.
Norm's 6.5mm 150 gr bullet works well, as do my own cast Lyman 266469s. The 105gr frangibles are fun on steel in the 7.65 Argentine (so easy to make brass from unwanted .270 etc.)...
Those are some interesting looking bullets. The long ones with the flat nose.
 
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