Bang for the buck M4 variant?

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My favorite firearm has always been the M4 Carbine. I've always wanted one, but have considered them prohibitively expensive (for me).

I figured I could save for an AR-15 carbine of some sorts, but lately I've been seeing a few "knock-offs" (no offense to them) for around $600-800 used. It seems there are dozens of M4 variants now... Colt, Bushmaster, STAG, Armalite, Sig, etc, etc...

I'm curious what the cheapest non-terrible M4 would be. I've heard good things about the Bushmaster, which seems to be a bit more affordable.

Any tips or advice on what I should look for and where?
 
Spikes, hands down.

Lead times suck (esp recently), but if you're looking for a mil-spec bang-for-your-buck M4gery, they're the ones to look at.
 
My favorite firearm has always been the M4 Carbine. I've always wanted one, but have considered them prohibitively expensive (for me).

I figured I could save for an AR-15 carbine of some sorts, but lately I've been seeing a few "knock-offs" (no offense to them) for around $600-800 used. It seems there are dozens of M4 variants now... Colt, Bushmaster, STAG, Armalite, Sig, etc, etc...

I'm curious what the cheapest non-terrible M4 would be. I've heard good things about the Bushmaster, which seems to be a bit more affordable.

Any tips or advice on what I should look for and where?

it really depends what you are planning to use it for. You'll be fine with just about anything if all you want is a weekend plinker. If you are planning to use your carbine as a defensive weapon or in training courses or competitions, then it's something else.

The best are Bravo Company, Daniel Defense, Colt, Noveske, LMT.

Companies like Stag, RRA, and Bushmaster make fine commercial rifles, but there are some things you will have to do to them if you want a rifle in the defense/training/competition/high round count realm. The gas keys are usually badly staked, so you'll have to stake them. Castle nut is usually not staked, so stake it as well. Bolt is not individually high pressure tested/MPI'ed, so you are best off buying a complete bolt from BCM. At the very least, you need to replace the your bolt's weak commercial extractor spring with a proper heavy duty milspec one. Also, in the event you are putting a BUIS and optic on your rifle, you may need a tall front sight post since you aren't getting an F-marked front sight base and you may run into trouble zeroing your BUIS. Also, you should replace the standard buffer with an H-buffer or even H2-buffer. Most commercial guns are often overgassed to make them more reliable with weaker commercial ammo, so without a heavier buffer you will be causing excessive stress on the internals.


I would avoid Olympic Arms, Blackthorne/Hesse and various "gun show specials" cobbled together by a who-knows-what assortment of shitty out of spec parts.

highly recomend you reading this.
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/124511-AR15-s-Who-makes-the-best-ones-and-why
 
Check out DS arms the same company known for FALS

their upper is like 275 $ minus bolt and ch. Add a bcm bolt and handle and a yhm muzzle brake and you come to about 450 plus a do it yourself lower and you're under the 700$ mark and its all new. I know buy quality get quality but its worth a look as long as the upper is spec and barrel is headspaced correctly its fine. It's not a top tier gun but you have to be honest do you need it. Or will a range plinker do?

Their reviews aren't that bad and its a good way to get into ARs without breaking the bank.
 
I don't own one but over on ar-15.com palmetto state arms are all the rage complete upper for 400 or 500 with cold hammer forged barrel thats a pretty good deal! Of course you would still need to source/build a lower but still seems like a good bang for the buck deal!
 
I would suggest that you don't go with a "good enough" brand, but instead save a little longer and get the best. When I got an AK, I went with a WASR and have no complaints, but I am jealous of my buddies Saiga. ARs are a more finnicky gun and you may regret going with a cheapo.

There are many different brands and each have many different models of AR-15 configurations. I am no expert, but I suggest that whatever you get, make sure the barrel is 1:7 twist. Most of of the models I see now are 1:9 twist and those don't handle the heavier rounds as well as 1:7.
 
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With a lot on here. Don't putz around. When people think about Mil-Spec, its not the upper echelons of parts, but rather it is the absolute minimum tolerances/materials that a part can be in order to be placed into a fighting carbine for the U.S Military.

From what I have heard, the S&W M&P's are not that bad, but I'd rather get a BCM or DD if I had the cash.
 
I have had a Bushmaster for 10+ years and it has never given me a problem. It has gone through multiple schools (ITTS, LEADS, Gunsite 223 and 556), plinked on the range, shot slow fire, rapid fire, horsed around with and been put away wet and tired all without so much as a hicup. I rarely clean it and it usually has the grime from one or two range sessions on it. It is all stock except for the furniture. I have heard alot of online commentary of Bushmasters not being up to par, but have never seen it in person. Doesn't mean it's not true, just never seen it. Mine could blow up the next time I pull the trigger for all I know, but I doubt it. It's been through alot and I am very pleased with it. I would bet my life on it. My two cents is get one in your price range based on the advice of everyone on this thread, shoot it, replace anything that breaks with the highest quality replacement part and drive on. If you get a Bushmaster that works fine, like mine, you can put the money you saved towards a nice optic, ammo and training.

There are alot of folks here that seem to know alot more about specs then me, and are giving alot of good scoop. I'm just a guy that got an off the shelf, entry level Bushmaster M-4 and it rocks. I hope you have the same experience if you get one too. Best of luck.
 
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