Best way to lube AR-15 BCG?

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I assembled my second AR last weekend. I wanted to use a chrome BCG, but all I could find was the standard "black" bcg. It fits and cycles fines, but it seems a little rough when it cycles. My chrome BCG cycles very smoothly - I assume that chrome has a lower coefficient of friction than the black BCG.

Any suggestions on what to use as lube on the BCG so that it will be as smooth as my chrome BCG?

Thanks
 
I've always used Break-Free LP and never had a problem.

I used to use this for everything, but now I just use it for the cleaning portion of the job. I will admit that I went full retard fanboy and got some EWL Slip 2000, and while, "Yes", it is AWESOME and does a kick ass job, due to the cost and non-local availability I have been using and will stick to the "M-Pro 7" lube on the BCG and that is lasting very well, especially during some long range sessions and classes.
 
If it's a new carrier, they phosphate finish is probably causing it to feel a little rough. That will wear away and it should feel slick. I have a couple of chrome BCGs and I can't tell any real difference in how they feel over my regular well broken in BCGs. I did get a stainless steel buffer and noticed that it made a difference in the way things felt, but I don't think how things feel makes much of a difference in real world performance.

I would never have thought of using Kroil on the BCG. It seems a little thin and I would think it would run/blow off or out of the BCG. However if it works it works.

I use motor oil on my ARs

B
 
I don't think I'd use Kroil. Seems it would loosen up all the caked-on carbon, etc. and then distribute it throughout. I think of Kroil as more of a pre-cleaning step for the bore (when I clean it).

I've always just hosed the BCG down with CLP.
There is really no wrong answer. Keep it lubed with whatever you finally decide and be happy. It will work.
 
Frog lube anyone? Expensive($28 for a kit), but I have only heard amazing things about it. I haven't seen it in any stores around here, but in a few days I'll be visiting the family out in WA, and they supposedly have it out there.
 
Frog lube anyone? Expensive($28 for a kit), but I have only heard amazing things about it. I haven't seen it in any stores around here, but in a few days I'll be visiting the family out in WA, and they supposedly have it out there.

INCOMING!!!!

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(EC said he would not use Fr*g L*be even if he had a frog with vaginal dryness. I beleive him; dry frog vag is serious business.)
 
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HAH missed that thread... A friend of mine who introduced me to shooting several years back recently suggested it for my 1911.

I had seen it become fairly popular on YouTube gun channels lately.
 
Anyway.... Finished my first AR build a little bit ago and I'm curious what you guys use for the BCG. Are you guys kidding about motor oil?
 
Mpro7 oil here. I wet the bolt (save for firing pin/extractor) and the bcg down to the halfway point pretty liberally and the CH. Have had no issues. I shoot mainly steel case tula or wolf thru my a.p./dpms set up and its run flawlessly

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Frog lube anyone? Expensive($28 for a kit), but I have only heard amazing things about it. I haven't seen it in any stores around here, but in a few days I'll be visiting the family out in WA, and they supposedly have it out there.

Dude. No.

Let me translate some of their claims:

Frog Lube Shill Testimonial said:
After using it, I took the gun apart and the parts appear polished!
TRANSLATION: It induces wear.

Frog Lube Shill Testimonial said:
It actually removed some rust that was on the gun!
TRANSLATION: Since it didn't covert it back into steel, it must be either abrasive or corrosive.

Frog Lube Shill Testimonial said:
After using this the slide on my shotgun moved so easily, all I had to do was tip the gun up and it moved on its own!
TRANSLATION: I have two 870s and one of them does this - the one that's worn out.


And my favorite....

Frog Lube Shill Testimonial said:
It seeps deep into the pores of the steel.
TRANSLATION: I'm making shit up and I know nothing about chemistry. Right outside my window is a hydrogen tank made out of steel. They put hydrogen in it, and it stays there until they take it out. If the smallest molecule in the world can't seep though steel, how can a giant polymer do it?
 
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Dude. No.

Let me translate some of their claims:


TRANSLATION: It induces wear.


TRANSLATION: Since it didn't covert it back into steel, it must be either abrasive or corrosive.


TRANSLATION: I have two 870s and one of them does this - the one that's worn out.


And my favorite....


TRANSLATION: I'm making shit up and I know nothing about chemistry. Right outside my window is a hydrogen tank made out of steel. They put hydrogen in it, and it stays there until they take it out. If the smallest molecule in the world can't seep though steel, how can a giant polymer do it?

Reviving dead threads, this is by far the funniest thing I've seen on this product. I use slip 2000 thought about frog line but you just sealed it!
 
I use synthetic motor oil because it's cheap and works just as well as the "wonder lubes". My next step is to try the 50/50 ATF mixture.

I used "Break Free" for many years with great results and only switched to synthetic motor oil when it got too expensive ($6.00 for four oz.). I never used "Break Free" for cleaning and cannot understand why anyone would. Why use expensive oil for a cleaning job that can done much better with a real cleaning agent like Hoppes, or my favorite, Brake Parts Cleaner (available for short money at your local auto parts store)?
 
An aside, I read a thread on the KLR forum from one of the gurus - he tested WD40 as a 'lube' for the chain. Now I and I am sure most of you know that WD40 is not a lube but more of a solvent. Anyway, long story short he got as much life out of his chain with WD40 as he did with top notch chain lubes. I am talking 10's of thousands of miles.....
The take away to me was just use something, but use it often in generous amounts....
 
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