Bows...

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Hi all,

I figured the hunting section is the best place to put this, though I'm not looking to hunt right off the bat.

I'm interested in getting into bow and have absolutely no idea where to start. I shot a recurve (no sights) a little when I was a kid and that's it.

I wouldn't want to break the bank on trying this out (who knows... I may not like it), but don't want crap gear either. I've looked through Cabela's online and at Dick's in person. Haven't been to a real shop yet - I'll swing by Blue Northern in the coming weeks.

What do I look for? Can pull weight and length be independently adjusted? What should I expect to pay for this adjustment? What are the brands I should pay attention to and those I should avoid in my search? What's a minimum pull weight for taking a deer?

Thanks in advance,
Matt
 
40 lb in MA.

While many bows can be adjusted for draw length and draw weight, there's a lot to setting a bow up properly. I suggest visiting a quality shop when shopper traffic is light (mid-week, before evening), and have someone knowledgeable set you up. There're bows of all price ranges, but having it "fit" you is key. Even with a modestly priced bow, you're probably looking at a minimum total investment of $450-500.
 
Hi all,

I figured the hunting section is the best place to put this, though I'm not looking to hunt right off the bat.

I'm interested in getting into bow and have absolutely no idea where to start. I shot a recurve (no sights) a little when I was a kid and that's it.

I wouldn't want to break the bank on trying this out (who knows... I may not like it), but don't want crap gear either. I've looked through Cabela's online and at Dick's in person. Haven't been to a real shop yet - I'll swing by Blue Northern in the coming weeks.

What do I look for? Can pull weight and length be independently adjusted? What should I expect to pay for this adjustment? What are the brands I should pay attention to and those I should avoid in my search? What's a minimum pull weight for taking a deer?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

Dear God, whatever you do don't buy a bow at Dick's! There's way too much involved for a new shooter to deal with them. I'm not familiar with your area of the state, but I bought my last bow at Big Al's archery in Seabrook, NH and they are great. Probably not too far from you. Bob's Gun and Archery in Webster is a good shop too.

Here is a link to an excellent tutorial guide from huntersfriend.com, which covers a lot of ground. It will help you understand all the technical info that you'll see for different bows. They also sell complete packages at a wide variety of price ranges, that arrive at your door set up and tuned. I bought my second to last bow that way and they did an excellent job, but for your first, it would probably be beneficial to buy in person.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

Also, check out

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/

it's like an NES for bows.

Now is a good time to buy, as a lot of 2009 models will be on sale and the archery season is already well underway. Good luck with your choice, I don't say it too loudly around these parts, but I shoot my bow more than my guns. [shocked]

Matt
 
Dear God, whatever you do don't buy a bow at Dick's! <snip>

Here is a link to an excellent tutorial guide from huntersfriend.com, which covers a lot of ground. <snip>

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/

it's like an NES for bows.

When I asked the guy in Keen to cut arrows for my son's set-up he never bothered, just glued the ferrules into full length shafts. I'll never go there again.

+1 on Hunters Friend great site, bought a Diamond Liberty rig from them a while back. Sweet bow. Same for Archery Talk.
 
Bow and arrows are nothing like guns
You will have to find a good archery shop to help you.
Reedys archery in middleboro is our choice for compound style.
Traditional archery in whitman is now our choice for long bows and recurve.

Its so important to have the help and advice with setup,arrows,etc.
 
I just started looking for a new bow for an Elk hunt in Colorado, we are fortunate to have a very good shop nearby. Mathews and Mission are great brands with bullet proof warranties, I got to try both and will be working with the shop over the next few weeks to get my best fit, Hoyt is also a very good choice, but I find they seem to be a bigger company with out the personal level of service I found with Mathews. Feel free to pm with any questions.
 
Do it right.

First go to a shop and get your draw length taken. Then buy a nice bow. In about one month you will find a bunch of people selling there bows online. If you go to a place like Archery talk classifieds section you will find people selling real nice bows for seriously short money. After you buy a bow, bring it to a pro shop and have them set it up for you. They will need to fit the bow to you.

Most bows are pretty sick nowadays Hoyt, PSE, Matthews. I shoot a Darton.
 
I know alot of people are slamming the big stores, but I bought my bow at Kittery Trading Post. The salesman spent 45 minutes with me adjusting the draw, trying out different releases, cutting the arrows to fit and and checking windage on the sights. I ended up with a Parker Frontier and all the accessories for under $450. Plus, if you have a problem with the bow under warranty, they DO NOT charge labor to fix it AND they will tune your bow annually for no charge.

I went home and tested it out and it is balls on accurate and very forgiving. Could not be happier with KTP. However, if you go there, go mid-week to be sure you get the attention you deserve. Sheep go there on the weekends.
 
I know alot of people are slamming the big stores, but I bought my bow at Kittery Trading Post. The salesman spent 45 minutes with me adjusting the draw, trying out different releases, cutting the arrows to fit and and checking windage on the sights. I ended up with a Parker Frontier and all the accessories for under $450. Plus, if you have a problem with the bow under warranty, they DO NOT charge labor to fix it AND they will tune your bow annually for no charge.

I went home and tested it out and it is balls on accurate and very forgiving. Could not be happier with KTP. However, if you go there, go mid-week to be sure you get the attention you deserve. Sheep go there on the weekends.

Places like KTP, Bass Pro and Cabelas are nice because you can see and handle a lot of different bows and accessories. If you get the right sales guy in these shops then you will get set up properly. Get the wrong one and you will waste a lot of time and money and might end up thinking "screw this, what a PITA".

I'd have no problem buying something at one of the box stores if they had what I want, because I can set it up and tune it myself now. Also, I'm able to tell when talking to the floor guy if he knows what he's doing. But, I still think the little bit of extra money you spend in a Pro-shop is well spent, especially the first time around.

For the record, there is one guy at Bass Pro, I think his name is Steve, who is really good. He's a former corrections officer, now retired and he work the archery section full time. He'll be the first to tell you, if you're going to buy a bow there, go in on a Tuesday morning, because if you go in on a Saturday afternoon, they are going to be slammed and you'll get rushed through the process.
 
Thanks all!

Great feedback! I'm going to visit a few shops to handle some gear in person and get an education. I'd really like to give this a go.
 
Good suggestions and links.

I have a Martin Lynx from early 90's. Got it from an archery shop. Where ever you go, you should end up with a good one.

And bows now have a lot more let off, they are quieter, and more.

Also, some places have lanes where you can try one or rent one and get a feel for what you want. Also where you can find bow owners to talk to.

Dana
 
I dont personally think that 40lbs is enough draw weight, right now my bow is at 57 pounds. its a Fred Bear "lights out" shoots good and was a good buy on my college student budget. if your starting out get single cam, and do not get a short brace height. Matthews is a great bow lil pricey though. Missons are good too, they are what matthews were a couple years ago. also get as much letoff as you can find, mine is 80% but I do have an old McPherson which is ungodly heavy thats 90% IIRC. I shoot the newish Easton nano-arrows I got them for 80 a dozen at the big E hunting show. I like the way they fly and they hit hard too.
 
Bow and arrows are nothing like guns
You will have to find a good archery shop to help you.
Reedys archery in middleboro is our choice for compound style.
Traditional archery in whitman is now our choice for long bows and recurve.

Its so important to have the help and advice with setup,arrows,etc.

Reedys has the stuff you want [smile]
 
Accessories

I regret I have a 4 arrow quiver and not a 5.

My whisker biscuit arrow holder shows some wear after 1 year, holds my aluminum arrows well, but then is loose with my carbons. Has quite a bit resistance as the vanes go forward threw it. I wonder if I should experiment with other holders?

Recommendations?

I'm at 62 lbs with a 2007 Parker Frontier package that I got 1/2 price in 2008 from Kittery, and like it for: I aim 4 inches low at 10 yards, even at 20 yards, and 4 inches high at 30 yards, and thus use one pin.
 
I regret I have a 4 arrow quiver and not a 5.

My whisker biscuit arrow holder shows some wear after 1 year, holds my aluminum arrows well, but then is loose with my carbons. Has quite a bit resistance as the vanes go forward threw it. I wonder if I should experiment with other holders?

Recommendations?

I'm at 62 lbs with a 2007 Parker Frontier package that I got 1/2 price in 2008 from Kittery, and like it for: I aim 4 inches low at 10 yards, even at 20 yards, and 4 inches high at 30 yards, and thus use one pin.

I have a five arrow quiver and when I go into the woods I bring three arrows. I've never shot more than one while hunting (deer). Why do you feel the need for one more arrow?

As for your whisker biscuit, they come in different sizes, so if you are using one made for aluminum arrows, then it stands to reason that the thinner carbon arrows would be loose. In the bottom left corner of this link there is a chart which shows the different sizes available and proper fit. If it's worn down I would replace it.
http://www.trophyridge.com/arrow-rests/whisker-biscuit/

You could certainly try other rests, I tried several drop-away rests. In the end I went back to the biscuit. For a strictly hunting set up you just cant beat them. If they are tuned properly and you use the right kind of vanes (I like blazers with a 2 degree offset) they will be more accurate than most shooters.

I also shoot a single pin on a Bowtech Tribute when hunting. I sighted it in at 25 yards and don't make any adjustments when aiming. At anywhere from 10-35 yards my point of impact will be within 2" of where I aim.
 
I regret I have a 4 arrow quiver and not a 5.

My whisker biscuit arrow holder shows some wear after 1 year, holds my aluminum arrows well, but then is loose with my carbons. Has quite a bit resistance as the vanes go forward threw it. I wonder if I should experiment with other holders?

Recommendations?

I'm at 62 lbs with a 2007 Parker Frontier package that I got 1/2 price in 2008 from Kittery, and like it for: I aim 4 inches low at 10 yards, even at 20 yards, and 4 inches high at 30 yards, and thus use one pin.

I for one hate the biscuit, there are 2 new one's in the other room and I couldn't be bothered. With that said, I use a drop away rest. I have the Vital Gear rest on my DXT now and it is awesome! It holds the arrow in a ready position without worry of falling off so it works great in the stand. I am shooting a Mathews DXT at 28" and a 70lb draw weight with carbon arrows. The arrows leaving my bow are above the 300fps mark and this drop away rest gets out of their way fast. This is important because you don't want your fletches to hit ANYTHING on the way out, this includes the biscuit rest. Anything they hit will always change the flight of the arrow and consistency is key with keeping that arrow flying straight every time. There is just no way for an arrow to get though a biscuit rest the same way every time.
My 2 cents[wink]
 
Hi all,

I figured the hunting section is the best place to put this, though I'm not looking to hunt right off the bat.

I'm interested in getting into bow and have absolutely no idea where to start. I shot a recurve (no sights) a little when I was a kid and that's it.

I wouldn't want to break the bank on trying this out (who knows... I may not like it), but don't want crap gear either. I've looked through Cabela's online and at Dick's in person. Haven't been to a real shop yet - I'll swing by Blue Northern in the coming weeks.

What do I look for? Can pull weight and length be independently adjusted? What should I expect to pay for this adjustment? What are the brands I should pay attention to and those I should avoid in my search? What's a minimum pull weight for taking a deer?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

If your willing to take ride to Middleboro ,Ma there is a archery shop I got started with a few years back and they have done nothing but treat me good without the pressure sales someplacess might.If your getting started just let them know you want a good bow and set up not top of the line but not junk something in the middle.I started with a PSE and it gave me the chance to see if i liked the sport without spending a bundle .I now have a Matthews Drenlin and couldn't ask for a better bow . They'll walk you through the right size to draw length,weight,and the right arrows for your set up .

Good Luck and feel free to drop me a email if you have any questions

http://www.reedysarchery.com/

Tom
 
You guys are great! Thanks for the responses.

I've had a flair of tendinitis in my left shoulder. I need to wait for that to cool down before I spend quality time in a shop.
 
Don't buy anything until you go to pelletier sports in Jaffrey NH. Make sure that you talk to and work with Scott, and one one of the kids that sometimes work the counter.

Try the bows there and get the right set up for you.

Good luck..

Also PM me if you want some good spots in north central to set up in..
 
Don't buy anything until you go to pelletier sports in Jaffrey NH. Make sure that you talk to and work with Scott, and one one of the kids that sometimes work the counter.

Try the bows there and get the right set up for you.

Good luck..

Also PM me if you want some good spots in north central to set up in..

I'm planning on going up there soon, maybe tomorrow afternoon, just to look. I stopped at Buzz Bowers in Troy yesterday and spent about an hour with Buzz. Great guy. Didn't pressure for the sale, just fed me info on everything to bow construction to rests to sights. It was quite helpful.
 
Matt, try Ric's in Leominster. It's been a few years, but those guys were always helpful when I was getting into archery. Bonus is it's not too far from here.

Brandy at Ric's is a joke, a convicted poacher and a convicted dog killer. Go elsewhere.

A very good shop near you Matt is Archery Plus on Rt 31 north out of spencer center.

http://www.archeryplusllc.com/
 
Brandy at Ric's is a joke, a convicted poacher and a convicted dog killer. Go elsewhere.

A very good shop near you Matt is Archery Plus on Rt 31 north out of spencer center.

http://www.archeryplusllc.com/

While i was unaware of the convictions, I wouldn't let brandy wax my shoes for me. Not to impressed with that outfit.

The bottom line is shoot every bow you can, from every manufacturer, then decide. Don't listen to brand loyalists. I happen to shoot a bowtech, but that was what happened to work for me. PSE (The pro shop line), Matthews, Hoyt, Bowtech, etc are all excellent bows as well as Darton and other lesser known bows.

I selected the one with the least feedback to my hand and the least noise. Ignore speed if published over ~300fps, it really doesn't matter beyond that.

I recommend the drop away rest as well for accuracy. I use a quicktune from NAP.


Good luck...
 
Is it mostly compound bows now? How about recurve or even long bows? I might like to try it, but I'd have to come into one really cheap, and I wouldn't want to hunt with one without having practiced all year first. How are Browning?
 
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