Box o' parts BSA

Sweeney

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I started messing around with 1939 BSA No1 MkIII to see what I was dealing with. There are a few bits missing but they've been ordered. The musty/moldy stock has been washed and dried and all the metal has been de-gunked.

The receiver had a little rust and very fine pitting but predominantly bare steel showing. I did some steaming, carding and rust bluing and it's looking pretty presentable. I also did the bolt (where appropriate), the cocking piece and the nose cap. I'm really liking this rust bluing sorcery.
1641254467441.jpeg
 
I started messing around with 1939 BSA No1 MkIII to see what I was dealing with. There are a few bits missing but they've been ordered. The musty/moldy stock has been washed and dried and all the metal has been de-gunked.

The receiver had a little rust and very fine pitting but predominantly bare steel showing. I did some steaming, carding and rust bluing and it's looking pretty presentable. I also did the bolt (where appropriate), the cocking piece and the nose cap. I'm really liking this rust bluing sorcery.
View attachment 559905
I tried rust blueing 4 screws for the 311 they are still red rust! Argh

Looks good , rust blue has worked for me at various results.
 
The real fun comes when tweaking the magazine feed lips. (oh does this suck and it's why Enfield magazines aren't interchangeable because they need to be fitted to each rifle)
 
I tried rust blueing 4 screws for the 311 they are still red rust! Argh

Looks good , rust blue has worked for me at various results.
I've been using the Laurel Mt 'Barrel Brown & Degreaser' wiping on barely enough to dampen the surface and letting it dry. I then place the part on a rack over a warmed pot of water with a cover over it to rust. Once the surface rust forms I turn on the heat to bring the water to a boil and steam the hematite to magnetite, dry and card. I'll repeat the process to get the 'depth' I like then oil the surface.
 
I've been using the Laurel Mt 'Barrel Brown & Degreaser' wiping on barely enough to dampen the surface and letting it dry. I then place the part on a rack over a warmed pot of water with a cover over it to rust. Once the surface rust forms I turn on the heat to bring the water to a boil and steam the hematite to magnetite, dry and card. I'll repeat the process to get the 'depth' I like then oil the surface.
I have had good results with just rusty parts, these screws just dont want to turn!
 
I finally got a good repro walnut upper handguard as the one I had was chopped off at the back. I fit it, tried to color match it and oiled it. The only things I'm trying to find are the two little screws that hold the steel end cap on the handguard or, at least their size, and it should be complete.
The current state;
1643658120852.jpeg
 
Something else I need to make... Two detents for the safety/bolt lock lever. They're actually pins that press into the receiver ('body' in British terms). These are complete unobtanium as replacement or surplus parts. They're not the type of thing that goes missing or wears out... BUT!!! one of mine is missing and the other is worn out...
My solution; core pins from McMaster-Carr. Made of tool steel and centerless ground to the proper 0.070" shaft diameter. I just need to cut to length and shape the head.
Original worn pin and the core pin. Wee stuff...
1645191244955.jpeg
 
Did a little machining this am...very little... I made those two pins that act as detents for the bolt lock/safety.
I left the new pins a bit longer because... why not.
1645385580569.jpeg
Here they are installed and working as they should.
1645385690518.jpeg
 
I finally got a good repro walnut upper handguard as the one I had was chopped off at the back. I fit it, tried to color match it and oiled it. The only things I'm trying to find are the two little screws that hold the steel end cap on the handguard or, at least their size, and it should be complete.
The current state;
View attachment 571302
 
^ Yeah but... I have the original stamped nose cap with broad arrow mark and it's threaded, not through drilled for rivets. I found NOS screws anyway, they're installed and I put 60 rounds through the rifle today.
I did order a firing pin as the one that was with the pile-O-parts was for a No.4 rifle and cross threaded into the No. 1 cocking piece. The firing pins are identical except the thread pitch. I had a spare No.4 cocking piece so I put that assembly in the No. 1 bolt body for the range trip.
I did find it was easy to induce a failure to feed by accidentally engaging the magazine cutoff... moron...
 
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