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Bullet Mold Porn ✊💦

My .582 "old style" Minie Ball dual cavity. Hand made by George Gompf of Tennessee Bullet Moulds. As I understand George was / is the godfather of muzzleloader moulds involved in NSSA competitions. I'm privilaged to say I got one of the last available .58 Minie moulds available as George is no longer making moulds due to declining health. Outstanding craftsmanship. Paid good money for this mould, and don't care wish he had more for sale. I really struggled when I first got this mould with "cold spots" and George walked me through some tips and BOOM I was dropping very nice pieces. This mould likes the HEAT ! As you can see, loaded with "patina" , not a shelf queen mould 👍

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My .582 "old style" Minie Ball dual cavity. Hand made by George Gompf of Tennessee Bullet Moulds. As I understand George was / is the godfather of muzzleloader moulds involved in NSSA competitions. I'm privilaged to say I got one of the last available .58 Mini moulds available as George is no longer making moulds due to declining health. Outstanding craftsmanship. Paid good money for this mould, and don't care wish he had more for sale. I really struggled when I first got this mould with "cold spots" and George walked me through some tips and BOOM I was dropping very nice pieces. This mould likes the HEAT ! As you can see, loaded with "patina" , not a shelf queen mould 👍

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Beautiful.
 
LEE's are a crap shoot. You pay $26 for 'em and you get what you pay for. 2 out of my 5 LEE moulds are (were) warped.
I have 8 molds and all Lee. I haven't had issues but I knew what I was getting into during purchase. I got lucky but not picture worth. Some of the cast bullets were picture worth.
 
I have 8 molds and all Lee. I haven't had issues but I knew what I was getting into during purchase. I got lucky but not picture worth. Some of the cast bullets were picture worth.
I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".

2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.

I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might. [laugh]

Anyway ...

I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.

But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
 
I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".

2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.

I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might. [laugh]

Anyway ...

I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.

But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
I can help you with the loose sprue plate. Maybe we can drill and tap a locking set screw against the sprue retaining bolt ?
 
I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".

2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.

I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might. [laugh]

Anyway ...

I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.

But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
Be a man. Paper patch.
 
Let me think about that. That would be interesting.
My Minie mould uses this method. Its a great way to maintain a nice smooth moving sprue plate. You want the sprue plate adjusted so it cuts a clean surface at the bullet tip (or the base) but isnt too tight where it binds when you rotate the plate.
 
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Problem is that a lot of Lee molds don't have a lot of meat around the sprue plate bolt - you might need to pull the handles and drill from the inside of the mold
I've tried more than once to remove the LEE handle mount pins and no luck. Those suckers are TIGHT. Kept stripping my hex key wrenches.
 
So here's a pic of my LEE 312-185 and the handle mount pin is clearly a set screw ? These are somehow locked in TIGHT

View attachment 619896
I wish I had kept a few of the pins
They are mostly smooth shanked with about the last 3/16 having a deep helical knurl.
Some may be different but the ones I've replaced were all the same

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I wish I had kept a few of the pins
They are mostly smooth shanked with about the last 3/16 having a deep helical knurl.
Some may be different but the ones I've replaced were all the same

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View attachment 619937

Thanks for the info. Now I sort of see how the pins tighten. No wonder I had no luck trying to "unscrew" the pins. I wonder if they just press the pins in at assembly and let the helical thread embed into the aluminum ?
 
Thanks for the info. Now I sort of see how the pins tighten. No wonder I had no luck trying to "unscrew" the pins. I wonder if they just press the pins in at assembly and let the helical thread embed into the aluminum ?
Exactly what they do - I think the hex pattern in the end is to stake it in place more (doesn't always work)
 
OK thanks, and just for clarification you have had success by drilling the opposite side of the pin hole and driving the pin out ?
Yes but this was done on my mini-mill so I could precisely locate the pin.
Sharpie marker and calipers should get you close enough on a drill press though
If I remember correctly I used a #8 tap drill then tapped the hole from the bottom so the threads didn't reach the top - tighten a setscrew up against the partial threads and they don't back out
 
Yes but this was done on my mini-mill so I could precisely locate the pin.
Sharpie marker and calipers should get you close enough on a drill press though
If I remember correctly I used a #8 tap drill then tapped the hole from the bottom so the threads didn't reach the top - tighten a setscrew up against the partial threads and they don't back out
Got it covered ! 👍


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Bought a couple of Lee molds and frankly couldn't get them to work. Any aluminium molds will be from NOE,Accurate or Arsenal. Had a brass mold from MP worked great but the weight of it caused my carpel tunnel to start back up.
 
Bought a couple of Lee molds and frankly couldn't get them to work. Any aluminium molds will be from NOE,Accurate or Arsenal. Had a brass mold from MP worked great but the weight of it caused my carpel tunnel to start back up.
I have to be carefull of repetitive right arm movements. I gave myself tennis elbow from stupid amounts of nightly reloading back when I bought my first RCBS press. I can't completely get rid of the TE . I've learned to just go easy on the joint. When I do a run of my very heavy steel .58 cal mould Minni Balls I use the steel resting "shelf" thats on my LEE Pro pot. It's a big help in minimising joint fatigue. I also switch between RH and LH and this works well for me.
 
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