cylinder removal s/w model 13-2 revolver

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Im trying to figure out how to remove the wheel from my s/w mod.13-2 revolver because it doesnt turn as easy as it used to.ive lubed it up a few times but I think it needs some love. there isn't a screw slot in the center of the ejector rod as i would think.Maybe the whole hinge assy needs to come off then the cylinder would slide off? ideas? [hmmm]
 
Im trying to figure out how to remove the wheel from my s/w mod.13-2 revolver because it doesnt turn as easy as it used to.ive lubed it up a few times but I think it needs some love. there isn't a screw slot in the center of the ejector rod as i would think.Maybe the whole hinge assy needs to come off then the cylinder would slide off? ideas? [hmmm]

I strongly urge you to get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W book before doing this, but nonetheless here goes:

1) Using care to use a properly sized screw driver so as not to bugger the screw, remove the forwardmost screw on the right side of the frame.

2) Pick up the revolver and swing out the cylinder as you would at the range.

3) At this point, the cylinder and crane assembly could be slid forward together, but don't do it. Rather, hold the cylinder to prevent it from moving forward while sliding the crane assembly forward. (If you allow the cylinder to move forward with the crane, you risk scratching either the cylinder or the frame.)

4) Wrap the forward knurled part of the ejector rod in a small piece of leather and chuck it in a vice.

5) Put two spent cases or dummy rounds in two of the cylinder's charge holes, 180 degrees apart.

6) Unscrew the cylinder from the ejector rod. Older revolvers (before about 1957) unscrew by turning counter clockwise (i.e., right hand threaded, like common screws). Newer revolvers unscrew by turning clockwise (i.e., left hand threaded). If in doubt, stop and consult a S&W qualified gunsmith, as the threads here are very fine and easily stripped.

7) Pay close attention to the orientation of the two springs on the rod so that you'll reassemble them correctly.

8) Clean and dry all surfaces. Lightly lube all surfaces except under the extractor (the "star"), which should be very lightly lubed. (Actually, I don't lube under the star on stainless revolvers. A common cause of cylinder revolving stiffness is crud under the star, which lube tends to collect.)

9) When reassembling ejector rod to cylinder, remember to turn it the correct way, and do not over tighten. (Risk of stripping.) When tightening the screw you removed first (from the right side of the frame), be aware that if the screw is slightly over long, tightening it will cause the cylinder to bind when when it is swung out. The proper fix is to remove a tiny bit of material at the end of the screw, but this should only be done by a qualified person. Alternatively, don't over tighten the screw (at some risk that it will back out as a result of recoil forces).
 
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