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ComforTac Ultimate Belly Band Holster 2.0​

$8.99–$15.99

3d6fa332-457e-4527-8814-59ad7e535d48.jpg


These any good? I mean, how different can one be from another? They are all nylon/stretch material, with velcro and a pocket.

Good deal, I ordered 2 in case they are great and one gets wet or ruined.
 
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ComforTac Ultimate Belly Band Holster 2.0​

$8.99–$15.99

3d6fa332-457e-4527-8814-59ad7e535d48.jpg


These any good? I mean, how different can they be from one another? They are all nylon/stretch material, with velcro and a pocket.

We have one of these for a G43. It's comfortable to wear.
 

btnh6668

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FPrice

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teamRR

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That depends on your power requirements, bigger is a waste if you don’t use it as it sucks down way more fuel, even when not running at high load.
I get away with a 5500 just fine and at night switch to 2200w/120v on half the panel just to keep the fridge and heat going.

I don't have enough experience running a 10k versus say 5k generator and measuring fuel burn to say for sure, but I can't imagine if not under load it matters much. They control their own throttle basically and idle if the load is low - I'd expect 10 to 20 gallons a day running a gasoline one (size/load depending) I guess at current fuel prices that's steep but not if you got no power.

By you saying you switch half the panel obviously cutting costs is a main goal, but I don't think most care at that point. An old place I had used to lose power about once a month, I'd basically shut off the electric water heater, oven, microwave until I needed it (because they would over tax the generator if everything else was running - had to plan when you ran those items) but otherwise I'd just just fire up the generator and live. If it was summer ACs were running, winter the Christmas lights stayed on. For most of us bigger is better.
 

42!

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I don't have enough experience running a 10k versus say 5k generator and measuring fuel burn to say for sure, but I can't imagine if not under load it matters much. They control their own throttle basically and idle if the load is low - I'd expect 10 to 20 gallons a day running a gasoline one (size/load depending) I guess at current fuel prices that's steep but not if you got no power.

By you saying you switch half the panel obviously cutting costs is a main goal, but I don't think most care at that point. An old place I had used to lose power about once a month, I'd basically shut off the electric water heater, oven, microwave until I needed it (because they would over tax the generator if everything else was running - had to plan when you ran those items) but otherwise I'd just just fire up the generator and live. If it was summer ACs were running, winter the Christmas lights stayed on. For most of us bigger is better.
You need to understand some basics about generators. First is that they are really alternators, that is they produce alternating current. And they need to produce it at a set frequency, 60hz, and this is tied directly to the RPM of the "generator". So no matter the power draw, the RPM remains the same. So there is a minimum fuel cost even if you are using no electricity. And a bigger engine will use more fuel at low power production. So running a 10K generator for 1K is fare less efficient that running a 2K for the same 1K.

Oh, and how does the power output vary if the RPM stays the same, you ask. Well they vary the magnetic field inside the generator by regulating the power fed back to the windings (electromagnets) inside the generator. This increased output but also increased the resistance to rotation, thus the engine must produce more torque to turn the generator at that constant speed, so more fuel usage.

Like any engine, the one on you generator has a power curve and you want it to run in it's peak efficiency range. Look at what the output is and pick a generator that runs at peak efficiency at you normal usage, with some percentage buffer.

Oh, one note. Some of those tiny hand carried generators, really are generators and use an electronic inverter, so RPM will vary. But, electronic inverters are less efficient and produce more heat, and are more prone to failure. So aren't so good for larger output units.
 
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cathouse01

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Bear Creek Arsenal is having a 10% off sale on all complete upper assemblies. Don’t follow the 10% off link on the main page, that just takes you to their daily 10% parts list. Go directly to the assembled upper pages, they all are listed at 10% off. For example :
Normally $364.99 on sale for $329.49.
 
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Old Glory in NH had a rack of S&W baseline ARs for pretty cheap. Guns are definitely being cranked out and affordable. Ammo is the biggest hurdle, though I will say 9mm is back down to reality. 223 and even 22lr are still higher than where I think they need to be to encourage new shooters more.
 

HarryPottar

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Old Glory in NH had a rack of S&W baseline ARs for pretty cheap. Guns are definitely being cranked out and affordable. Ammo is the biggest hurdle, though I will say 9mm is back down to reality. 223 and even 22lr are still higher than where I think they need to be to encourage new shooters more.
To young to remember when SKS’s where free in cereal boxes, but I do remember buying perfector ammo from Wally World for $8 a box.
 
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I think realistic floor for 9mm this year is $275 for reg garbage. Reloading is still the way to go even with high primer prices. High quality ammo for $200 if you have brass already.

I highly doubt we will see 223 below $350 ever again. I think $400 is the new price floor in general with the sheer number of new gun owners created. If you want to shoot bottleneck rifle in any caliber in volume you really need to start reloading. There were years I shot 12k rounds of .223 OEM ammo. That was at $200/k and even then that's a lot of money for most people in a year.
 

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I think realistic floor for 9mm this year is $275 for reg garbage. Reloading is still the way to go even with high primer prices. High quality ammo for $200 if you have brass already.

I highly doubt we will see 223 below $350 ever again. I think $400 is the new price floor in general with the sheer number of new gun owners created. If you want to shoot bottleneck rifle in any caliber in volume you really need to start reloading. There were years I shot 12k rounds of .223 OEM ammo. That was at $200/k and even then that's a lot of money for most people in a year.
Time to downsize! [smile]

1656530701670.png
 

ddeck22

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I think realistic floor for 9mm this year is $275 for reg garbage. Reloading is still the way to go even with high primer prices. High quality ammo for $200 if you have brass already.

I highly doubt we will see 223 below $350 ever again. I think $400 is the new price floor in general with the sheer number of new gun owners created. If you want to shoot bottleneck rifle in any caliber in volume you really need to start reloading. There were years I shot 12k rounds of .223 OEM ammo. That was at $200/k and even then that's a lot of money for most people in a year.
I saw an email from MFS today that had multiple 9 mm brass cased fully loaded for $300/1000.
 
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