Enfield bold head question

[Ben Cartwright SASS]

I have two #5's I have headspace gauges from Okie gauges, They are the No-Go and the field guage, a bit more foregiving no-go. The bolts close on the no-go but do not close on the field gauge.

I am using mild load, mostly 5744 or Trail Boss with cast bullets. They both shoot fine, don't notice any issues or deforming of cases.

The question I have is about the bolt heads, one gun has a #1 and the other a #3 bolt head, if I wanted to make them "tighter" i.e. pass the no-go would I change out the bolt heads and do you get a higher number or a lower number?

 

[mac1911]

I have two #5's I have headspace gauges from Okie gauges, They are the No-Go and the field guage, a bit more foregiving no-go. The bolts close on the no-go but do not close on the field gauge.

I am using mild load, mostly 5744 or Trail Boss with cast bullets. They both shoot fine, don't notice any issues or deforming of cases.

The question I have is about the bolt heads, one gun has a #1 and the other a #3 bolt head, if I wanted to make them "tighter" i.e. pass the no-go would I change out the bolt heads and do you get a higher number or a lower number?

IIRC as the bolt head # goes up its "larger" to get back to correct headcspace.
For example the #0 is .XX0 and a #1 might be +.XX3. So if your #3 bolt head closes on a no go you need a #4
I think theres issues with the # bolt heads as theres a range of sizes with in each #
Lets say you need .003" to close up the gap
You have a #2 , the number #3 you get is worn or at the back side of the +/-.XXX it wont help much.

I would swap bolt heads and see just how much things change.
Or if if everything is with in spec keep as is.
The best thing to do is use good brass if you reload.
HXP, PPU, norma or lapua if you can ever find it.
Dont over resize the brass. This is where a case comparator really helps.

 

[Jay77]

Pm me if you find a source for bolt heads. I’ve searched a bit for the higher numbers.

 

[mac1911]

Pm me if you find a source for bolt heads. I’ve searched a bit for the higher numbers.

plenty of #0 out there. Theres some new #0 floating around out there. I lucked out and found a #2 on ebay few years ago

 

[Ben Cartwright SASS]

to switch the bolt heads it is just unscrew and then screw in the "new" one? I was thinking if that is the case I would put the one from my #5 with the #3 bolt head on the #5 I got from Gibbs that has a #1 and see what the headspace is.

I have heard you just unscrew and then re-screw it, no spacing or anything?

 

[Ben Cartwright SASS]

Tried it as I have 4 Enfields, with a #0, #1,#2 and a #3, the #3 wouldn't fit on the #2 bolt, would quite screw in and the number 2 was too loose on the bolt with the #1, left a gap

 

[KBCraig]

Field is fine. Use quality brass, segregate it for that one rifle, and neck-size only when you reload.

 

[Ben Cartwright SASS]

Field is fine. Use quality brass, segregate it for that one rifle, and neck-size only when you reload.

Thank you, that is what I will do!

 

[cjrubes]

Field is fine. Use quality brass, segregate it for that one rifle, and neck-size only when you reload.

That's what I do for my 2 Enfields. My No. 1 Mk. III has a much tighter chamber than my No. 4 Mk. I, so I keep my brass separate for each rifle to get the most case life that I can.

 

[Boomer41]

Same thing here. Brass fired in my No. 4 Mk 1/2 won't chamber in my No.1 so I just keep them separate. Neck-sizing-only works very well. I have 60 PPU cases which I have reloaded about 10 times already. I re-anneal them every 5/6 times. So far showing no signs of distress except the extreme tip of the neck where the Lee Factory Crimp die operates. I think this will be the ultimate point of failure. Time will tell.

 

[mac1911]

Same thing here. Brass fired in my No. 4 Mk 1/2 won't chamber in my No.1 so I just keep them separate. Neck-sizing-only works very well. I have 60 PPU cases which I have reloaded about 10 times already. I re-anneal them every 5/6 times. So far showing no signs of distress except the extreme tip of the neck where the Lee Factory Crimp die operates. I think this will be the ultimate point of failure. Time will tell.

I get to about 8 loads on my HXP 303 brass with cast bullets and the neck start to split , I annealed them the old fasion way with a quick spin over a propane torch.
with Jacketed bullets I dont crimp , that PPU brass I have for that has lasted longer

 

[MJ1]

Tip; measure them not all #3s are the same and not all #2s are the same I have seen .003" difference in the same numbered bolt head many times even with new rifles.

Good luck and be safe.

 

[MJ1]

Just one question. I thought the Gibb's rifles were #1 MkIII modified to a close #5 copy. If so the bolt heads are not the same.

Can we see a pictures of the rifle ? I'm probably wrong as I usually am.