• If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership  The benefits pay for the membership many times over.

Enlarge Gas Port vs Lighten Buffer/BCG... What's the difference?

Atlantis

NES Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
1,684
Likes
2,817
Feedback: 4 / 0 / 0
Okay gurus and brain trust, I have an AR gas system question.

As I understand it, there is an "ideal" cyclic rate, which is to say there is an ideal bolt velocity. If the bolt velocity is too low, you can see things like failure to strip off a new round, failure to lock open, or even stove pipes. Things that could contribute to this could be weak ammo not generating enough gas pressure, gas port drilled too small, gas system length not correct for application (dwell time too short), or BCG/Buffer too heavy.

So from a physics perspective, I see two major groups of components. All the pressure generating aspects (strength of ammo, gas system sizing/length) which determine how much force is applied to the BCG, and then there is the weight + spring rate of the BCG+Buffer+Buffer_Spring. If you change something to generate more gas/pressure, more force is applied to the BCG and your bolt velocity goes up. If you reduce weight in the BCG+Buffer, or reduce spring rate, bolt velocity should go up. And visa versa.

Why would it be better to change the gas system versus changing the reciprocating weight? Assuming either change results in obtaining the ideal bolt velocity.

I am working on 10.5" barrel, carbine length gas system, with an M16 bolt carrier, in 7.62x39. The primary goal of this build was being able to train with cheap steel ammo (Wolf 122g and the like). I have worked my way through feed ramp issues, and magazine issues. I am now confident that I have a (low) bolt velocity issue. I originally built it with an H2 buffer, and it was a complete train wreck. It wouldn't lock the bolt back on an empty mag with any ammo. Once I went to a standard weight buffer, it would lock back on silver bear ammo, but not reliably on wolf. The silver bear ammo fed quite reliably, but with wolf, I would get frequent failure to feed, where there was no jam, just no round in the chamber. Rack it and it was back in action. I tried modifying a standard carbine buffer by replacing one of the standard steel weights with aluminum. It ran a little bit better on the wolf ammo, but still has an occasional failure to feed which appears to be due to short stroking.

So it looks like my options are:
A) Open up the gas port to get more gas flowing, doing it perfectly.
B) Open up the gas port to get more gas flowing, overshoot, then have to add an adjustable gas block and or a heavier buffer
C) Reduce buffer weight until feed issues go away with the weakest ammo, be slightly overgassed on good ammo.
D) Just never shoot weak ammo (this is not an option to me, a gun should work with anything you throw at it).

So what is wrong with just going with C, a light buffer? If the light buffer ends up bringing bolt velocity back into spec, won't I just have a lighter recoiling rifle than if I upped the gas?
I'm guessing you don't want a weaker buffer spring because you need the spring to keep velocity high enough on the forward stroke to strip a round off.
 
I don't know about 7.62 Russian AR's but a variety of competent sources have said they are difficult to do reliably, which is why 300 BLK came about. I get why you would want it but you are basically creating a worst scenario with that caliber plus the most wonky ammo.

I think where you want to end up is with a buffer/spring/maybe-bcg weight that is light enough so it cycles on any ammo as well as an adjustable gas block so that it can be turned down if running some ammo is over-gassed.
 
Have you confirmed that the gas block is fully aligned with the gas port on the barrel? If you're off by enough you'll have gas system related issues. I would check the gas block opening to gas port on the barrel alignment before going deeper down this rabbit hole. If your gas block is using set screws, be sure to Loctite them into position once you have everything good.

You can also mic the gas port on the barrel to see IF it's the size the barrel manufacturer says it's supposed to be. If it's under sized, get them to send a replacement that's correct.
 
I always modify the least expensive, non permanent component first.

This is definitely my approach as well. Just wanted to see if there is an established nuance I am overlooking.

I don't know about 7.62 Russian AR's but a variety of competent sources have said they are difficult to do reliably, which is why 300 BLK came about. I get why you would want it but you are basically creating a worst scenario with that caliber plus the most wonky ammo.

I think where you want to end up is with a buffer/spring/maybe-bcg weight that is light enough so it cycles on any ammo as well as an adjustable gas block so that it can be turned down if running some ammo is over-gassed.

Yep, as I noted the magazines and feed ramps are not straight foreword, tapered cases and whatnot. Lots of nose dives. But I don't have this problem in a 16" barrel version with all else being equal. So I'm reasonably confident that at this point I'm dealing with bolt velocity issues for one reason or another.

I actually debated keeping the thread totally theory based because I know I'm going to get some hate for the 7.62 AR.

Have you confirmed that the gas block is fully aligned with the gas port on the barrel? If you're off by enough you'll have gas system related issues. I would check the gas block opening to gas port on the barrel alignment before going deeper down this rabbit hole. If your gas block is using set screws, be sure to Loctite them into position once you have everything good.

You can also mic the gas port on the barrel to see IF it's the size the barrel manufacturer says it's supposed to be. If it's under sized, get them to send a replacement that's correct.

I have not yet confirmed that gas block alignment. I guess that's probably a really good thing to do before going further. My hope was to not have the break down the upper, but I guess it would be better to confirm where the ROOT of the problem is, in case it happens to be the alignment. I actually don't know the manufacturers spec on these barrels. I bought build kits from AlwaysArmed that came with assembled uppers.
 
I always start with changing out the buffer cause it's the easiest to do (AR platform).

And I'm probably wrong but I usually go to a heavier buffer first to address cycling problems. I'm actually waiting on a heavier buffer to arrive to test it out on my 10.5" ar pistol that's having cycling problems. I think it's overgassed and the light buffer is closing too quick.
 
I always start with changing out the buffer cause it's the easiest to do (AR platform).

And I'm probably wrong but I usually go to a heavier buffer first to address cycling problems. I'm actually waiting on a heavier buffer to arrive to test it out on my 10.5" ar pistol that's having cycling problems. I think it's overgassed and the light buffer is closing too quick.

I thought the same. So far I have tried Standard, H1, and H2, and most recently my modified ~2.5oz buffer.
H2 = "basically won't function"
H1 = "basically won't function unless you throw some hot ammo at it, then it tries to function but still fails to reliably feed.
Standard = "functions OKAY with good hot ammo, but fails to feed reliably on Wolf 122g"
2.5oz lightweight = "functions well with hot ammo, OKAY with 122g wolf but could use a little bit of improvement".

Basically I can get as low as 1.03 ounces with just a buffer and no weights. Although you lose the deadblow action which helps with bolt bounce.

Interestingly enough, here are the reviews from KAK Lightweight buffer kit. Just ordered this and will see what happens.

Good for my AR-47s as they improved cycling issues. Used the 2.6 oz with a 20% reduced spring, and the 2.2 oz with a standard spring in my AR-47s with steel case ammo, they improved the reliability

Great for experimentation. I was having issues with short stroking a 7.62x39 I built with a 20" barrel to squeeze as much velocity out of it. Wouldn't catch on an empty mag. The gas system was aligned, used a dimple jig and cleaned all the parts with a pipe cleaner to make sure it had flow. Gas key was tight. I am running a high power hammer spring which is probably slowing things down with the rifle buffer. So a carbine buffer was put in the rifle system and it got better. That's where this kit shined! Dialed in the buffer that worked best and voila! AR Russian that's more precise than my AK is now up and running after months of tinkering

I am using a high power hammer spring as well, I hadn't thought of that but I suppose that adds some drag too?
 
If you bought the upper fully assembled, reach out to the maker to find out what buffer weight (and spring weight) you need to use with it for proper function. I'd do that since it's NOT working right out of the box. If the kit came complete just needed to be assembled, I'd reach out to the vendor anyway.
 
you're building a 7.62x39? on an ar platform? if yes and yes, what mags are you using?

Couldn't get my hands on C-Products defense, so I am using ASC mags at the moment.

I've replaced mag springs with extra power springs. I've tuned up the followers, and I've also made some modifications to the feed lips. There were dimples at the rear of the feed lips where the rims hung up pretty bad, and the front of the mags has been lowered a bit so nosedives can catch ramps in the receiver and not the front of the mag That coupled with a lot of enlarging/blending/polishing of the feed ramps has really cleanup up the jams which were almost all nosedives hitting the receiver/magazine internally.

When it feeds now, it seems to feed properly. The issue at this point is primarily an occasional failure to strip off a fresh round. I would have guessed either over gassed/bolt moving too fast, or perhaps steel cased ammo in a steel mag causing too much friction, and the mag isn't keeping up. The reason I am reasonably confident I have a LOW bolt velocity issue is that it doesn't consistently lock the bolt open on the last round using the Wolf 122 ammo. It does with Silver Bear. If I run an H1 buffer with the Wolf 122, it NEVER locks the bolt back.

If I get it to lock the bolt back EVERYTIME with weak ammo and I still have feed issues, then I would suspect the magazine again. With Silver Bear ammo, it all seems to work fine, INCLUDING the bolt hold open. If the bolt didn't lock back on silver bear, I would think it was just the zinc coating reducing friction in the mag.
 
....so I am using ASC mags at the moment.
yeah, i was curious. i have two x39's on the ar chassis, although not 10.5. mine are 14's w/device. i run the asc mags. i found the 30s to be, for lack of a better word, fragile, and not at all like say a colt metal magazine. the walls of the 30 seemed thin and were bowing inward if not treated with a little respect and this caused feeding problems and the rounds to misalign themselves on the way up. i had to take the suspect ones apart and insert a spreader tool to about the middle and reshape them, reassemble, and they were fine. the 20s are fine as is. these 2 guns are not my fighting rifles but range toys, and i'd never toss those asc 30s about like i do my usgi 556 mags..

i long for the day pmag makes a x39 for the ar.

this was just my observation on the asc mags, not saying it has anything to do with your issue. anything other than asc seem to be scarce in these parts.
 
Check the gas block alignment. Check the gas key is properly mated and no soot is seen at the interface indicating it is leaking. Make sure the gas rings are good and in spec. Make sure the gas tube is properly in line with the gas key. I have seen rifles woth tubes misaligned and the tube drags on the key. Measure the gas port with a pin guage set. Make sure it is in spec and free of burrs. If needed enlarge it to the max diameter using a reamer NOT a drill. Remember to deburr it if you do this.

Basically there is something wrong for certain. You should not need to go that low on buffer to run wolf.

If you want to learn more about inspecting ARs, I strongly recommend watching a lot of videos from this guy below. He is the 100% anal retentive inspector guy every manufacturer wants in their shop and because if it he has a ton of knowledge on the minutia of root cause.

Youtube channel
School of the American Rifle

A BCG inspection.

View: https://youtu.be/qus09Z_j7m4


I cannot recommend this channel enough if you want to learn more about AR15s.
 
Check the gas block alignment.
This is on my todo list

Check the gas key is properly mated and no soot is seen at the interface indicating it is leaking.
I guess for this test you would do a complete cleaning so everything is spotless, use little to no lube, and then fire a few shots and check for soot? I feel like most of my rifles, even 5.56, all show soot around the gas key because the lub on the friction surfaces attracts it. Also in front of the gas key where gas comes out around the bolt.

Is that abnormal? Like the gas rings shouldnt be a PERFECT seal should they?


Make sure the gas rings are good and in spec.
I'll look into the proper way to test this, but my bolts (including this one) all pass the "stand it on end, it should support its own weight" check. And when doing a visual check, they look good.

Make sure the gas tube is properly in line with the gas key. I have seen rifles woth tubes misaligned and the tube drags on the key.
I'll have to look into how to check this properly as well, but I can say that when pulling the bolt back or pushing it it forward manually, I don't feel any additional effort/drag compared to my other rifles.

Measure the gas port with a pin guage set. Make sure it is in spec and free of burrs. If needed enlarge it to the max diameter using a reamer NOT a drill. Remember to deburr it if you do this.
Don't have a pin gauge set, but measuring gas port is on my todolist. If it's drilled to a 5.56 spec it would explain being under gassed for a 7.62 build.

Basically there is something wrong for certain. You should not need to go that low on buffer to run wolf.

If you want to learn more about inspecting ARs, I strongly recommend watching a lot of videos from this guy below. He is the 100% anal retentive inspector guy every manufacturer wants in their shop and because if it he has a ton of knowledge on the minutia of root cause.

Youtube channel
School of the American Rifle

A BCG inspection.

View: https://youtu.be/qus09Z_j7m4


I cannot recommend this channel enough if you want to learn more about AR15s.

I'll give that channel a watch and see what I can learn.
 
Not just gas port and block, but pull off the upper and put your compressor on either end of the gas tube: plug off both ends of the barrel and shoot air into the tube inside the receiver. Unblock muzzle end and get some air blowing through there so it exits the gas tube. I've had trash come out of there from the factory or you will be able to tell if the flow is restricted and there's your problem.

Other than that borrow your friend's bolt group, magazine, buffer/spring etc. and try them in your rifle to see if it fixes your problem. Or, swap uppers onto your friend's lower and see what happens.

Good luck
.
 
Not just gas port and block, but pull off the upper and put your compressor on either end of the gas tube: plug off both ends of the barrel and shoot air into the tube inside the receiver. Unblock muzzle end and get some air blowing through there so it exits the gas tube. I've had trash come out of there from the factory or you will be able to tell if the flow is restricted and there's your problem.

Other than that borrow your friend's bolt group, magazine, buffer/spring etc. and try them in your rifle to see if it fixes your problem. Or, swap uppers onto your friend's lower and see what happens.

Good luck
.

Should have mentioned. I have two complete BCGs. Haven't done an A-B comparison after the magazine/feed ramp tuning. But the bolt hold open issue was no different with either BCG. I suspect either A) Misaligned gas port B) gas port size is wrong for this configuration. My root question here is basically, why is it better to add gas and not remove reciprocating mass? Some folks PAY for lightweight BCG, and then pay to run an adjustable gas block and dial the gas back. If for whatever reason, I have an upper that is SLIGHTLY undergassed, what am I loosing by just running a buffer that is a couple OZ's light?
 
Should have mentioned. I have two complete BCGs. Haven't done an A-B comparison after the magazine/feed ramp tuning. But the bolt hold open issue was no different with either BCG. I suspect either A) Misaligned gas port B) gas port size is wrong for this configuration. My root question here is basically, why is it better to add gas and not remove reciprocating mass? Some folks PAY for lightweight BCG, and then pay to run an adjustable gas block and dial the gas back. If for whatever reason, I have an upper that is SLIGHTLY undergassed, what am I loosing by just running a buffer that is a couple OZ's light?

Long term reliability under different shooting conditions. Mass and inertia are your friend. The lighter you make everything, the more likely it is to fail and the easier it is for a single grain of sand to f*** up your day.

The heavier your action is, thr more reliable it will function outside of ideal conditions and long term.
 
I know I'm going to get some hate for the 7.62 AR.
5715103F-A87F-487C-A830-852559A92BF0.jpeg

Okay okay. Tongue and cheek aside ( you didn’t get it?) and as a x39 AR owner I will say I’ve put RAS, Wolf Polyformance, Wolf Military jhps, and Wolf Military fmjs through it. Never a problem at all except I did have a failed FA on the first few hundred rounds which broke off behind the bcg and jammed it good. I received a brand new upper from the manufacturer.

Grid Defense 10.5” upper
Brownell’s x39 bcg
ASC magazines with very slightly coaxed feed lips
 
Last edited:
Long term reliability under different shooting conditions. Mass and inertia are your friend. The lighter you make everything, the more likely it is to fail and the easier it is for a single grain of sand to f*** up your day.

The heavier your action is, thr more reliable it will function outside of ideal conditions and long term.

Interesting, I guess that makes sense. If I tune my under gassed gun to run properly, it will be running with less overall energy being input into the action.

Do you know what the state of the bolt/BCG should be when the bullet exits the barrel? Like ideal setup?

Specifically, should the bolt be totally unlocked and the gas key clear of the gas tube BEFORE the bullet exits the barrel? Or should the entire system depressurize (bullet exits barrel) BEFORE the gas key is separated from the gas tube?

I ask this because if the system is not fully unlocked when the bullet exits the barrel, then changing buffer/bcg should not change the total energy in the action. Only changing the amount of gas would change the energy. Bigger gas port, different dwell time via barrel length, etc.

Fixed it for you. Please update your post my friend. See above
 
The bolt on an AR does not unlock until after the bullet has exited. The gaskey is still covering the gas tube and receiving energy
 
The bolt on an AR does not unlock until after the bullet has exited. The gaskey is still covering the gas tube and receiving energy

Just reading up on this now. This is what I expected. So basically, changing the weight of the buffer/bcg does not appreciably affect dwell time. The amount of gas causing the action to cycle determines to total energy of the system.

I'm fairly confident that there is an "ideal" bolt velocity/cyclic rate. If we consider this to be the "goal", then in terms of energy, we can treat it as constant.

Energy (Kinetic) = 1/2 * Mass * Velocity^2

In this case, if I am going to get the gun cycling properly, I should not have any difference in Velocity^2 between the two solutions. All I can do is alter the mass or the energy to get it in balance.

So it looks like a milspec BCG is 11.6 oz, and a standard carbine buffer is ~ 3 oz.

Scenario 1) Energy = 1/2 * 14.6 oz * Velocity^2 for a standard BCG/buffer combo.

If I end up needing to get down to a 1.6 oz buffer then the total will be:

Scenario 2) Energy = 1/2 * 13.2 oz * Velocity^2

13.2 / 14.6 = 0.904, or roughly 90%.

So it sounds like if I get as low as 1.6 oz in the buffer in search of proper bolt velocity for my under gassed setup, I will be giving up roughly 10% of the energy a standard action has. Not a huge change, but I can see how it would be concerning for a fighting rifle.

I'll figure out if my gas system is just a bad combination/port size, or if its not properly built. If everything is aligned, and the decision is to enlarge the gas port or lighten the buffer, I think I may go with a light buffer. My main goal is training for 5.56, which has about ~85% of the muzzle energy as a 7.62x39. So it might just bring the recoil in line with a 5.56 if I get it running under gassed?
 
Can’t believe I didn’t see this before, but I can see that the gas block is at least a degree or so canted off the centerline. I’ll bet that’s the issue. Will diss assemble and confirm tomorrow
 
I went through this with my AR build.

20 inch barrel, rifle length gas system, M16 carrier, rifle buffer.

When first assembled, it was single shot. Would not pick up next round, would not lock open.

I checked gas block alignment (good), gas port diameter (max mill spec)...

With M855 I could sometimes get a second round to start to feed.

I lubed the ever loving crap out of it and cycled the action a bunch. Now it would often feed once or twice with M855 and on occasion with other ammo. Sometimes I could get it to lock the bolt open.

I ended up taking two of the weights out of the buffer effectively changing a rifle buffer into a H weight instead of H3.

Now it would lock open when empty and reliably feed anything with a brass case. Steel was still problematic.

After I got a few hundred rounds through it, it now handles steel just fine. Bolt velocities are still low. It puts the brass in a neat pile about 12-18 inches from the receiver.
 
Cocked gas block is a pretty common problem.

My case guage comment was because you had problems with one brand of ammo and not another. Sometimes that can be a chamber tolerance issue.
 
Interesting, gas port was actually alligned. In the sense that the .125 hole completely covered the .090 gas port. The carbon ring around the port showed this. There is a small amount of slop in the way the gas tube is “fixed” in the receiver, and I can tell that it isn’t not perfectly aligned with the bolt. When I pull the bolt back and it’s clears the gas tube there isn’t much resistance but there is a slight twang as the gas tube springs imperceptibly back to whatever orientation it prefers. I’ll try and tighten that up.

Now that I know it’s a .091 gas port, it’s likely drag in the system, as that is what Faxon has migrated to for 10.5 carbine length barrels. I did have some strange behavior the first 3-4 shots where it was like the cases were just stuck, zero bolt movement. But that cleared up and I figured it was growing pains. I think I’ll try some 320grit in the chamber very lightly and then some flitz. Between that and getting the gas tube just right, maybe I can sort it. The gas system itself is apparently built to the proper spec for this configuration.
 
My buddy bought a bastard child x39 AR 16" carbine.
1st thing I noticed is the gas block was not a "pinned style but set screw and did not look like it was lined up. 2nd thing I noticed is the pin holding the gas tube was beat to shit. Basically rammed the pin through the gas tube not the pin hole
After a new pin and gas tube, replaced the gas seals and tightened the key it was now over gassed. We removed the light weight buffer and spring. Installed a Standard carbine buffer/spring and all went well. its still a pos but functions. Functions best on some 40 year old Norinco ammo I sold him
 
@Atlantis

this build has many flaws, the major one being 7.62x39 in an AR and then more specifically the carbine gas on a short .30 cal barrel. there isn’t enough pressure to cycle well. It would need a pistol length gas which in turn will amplify the inherent 7.62x39 problems even more. Short barreled 7.62x39 Is going to shred bolt lugs all day long. the 7.62x39 AR is inherently problematic from magazines to bolt face/lugs. Shorten the Barrel and problems will only worsten Because it will either need a shorter gas system or a larger gas port both of which are bad. I would avoid such a build Completely.

in terms of your cycling problems, i Would try a Nemo 300 blk spring then avoid your barrel manufacturer for good. Grid defense?? who? Jesus just read their website disclaimer they don’t ensure function w steel cased ammo....there you go they know their 10.5 is undergassed so they blame it on ammo to allow Continued sales of garbage product. Stay the F away.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom