So I recently added to my vast AKM collection, a NHM-90 (not to be confused with a mak90). Anyways, I used Citri strip followed by rough then finer sandpaper. After around four or five coats of Sedona Red 222 Minwax oil stain, I'm left with a very nice orange-red finish. However, I want a glossy look, do you guys recommend lacquer or polyurethane? I'm leaning towards poly since all my research has led me there. Do you mix it with anything, or just stir and brush on? Help is greatly appreciated!
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First staining project! *help appreciated*
- Thread starter AKMguy912
- Start date
My vote is for TruOil... Keep applying until you like the look. Its less prone to chipping like poly and much easier to "fix" if needed. I prefer finishes that don't look like they just sitting over the surface like poly
+1
Buy a dozen cheap foam brushes, take your time make light coats.
Water-based poly won't change the color you like.
mikelawtown
NES Member
Make several light coats. If it's too heavy, it won't "flash off" (evaporate) properly and it might end up gummy.
Stir it well. A lot of that sediment stuff in the can has to do with the level of matte or gloss.
Don't shake the can, it creates tiny bubbles that can remain in the poly even after it's applied.
First coat always gets absorbed and looks like crap. Don't panic.
Beware of steel wool with water based poly. You might get rust dust trapped under a coat.
Sand very lightly between coats to remove any dust nibs and small imperfections.
It might take 4-5 coats.
Brown paper bag can be used as super fine sandpaper after final coat.
It takes a week or so to fully harden so don't rush reassembly.
Stir it well. A lot of that sediment stuff in the can has to do with the level of matte or gloss.
Don't shake the can, it creates tiny bubbles that can remain in the poly even after it's applied.
First coat always gets absorbed and looks like crap. Don't panic.
Beware of steel wool with water based poly. You might get rust dust trapped under a coat.
Sand very lightly between coats to remove any dust nibs and small imperfections.
It might take 4-5 coats.
Brown paper bag can be used as super fine sandpaper after final coat.
It takes a week or so to fully harden so don't rush reassembly.
cjmass
NES Member
I suggest several coats of Minwax Wipe-On Gloss Polyurethane. Quick and easy to apply multiple coats w/o getting any dust spots in it. Final coat can be rubbed with 0000 steel wool to adjust final level of shine. Gloss is always better to use than satin because it is clear and shows off the wood better.
Oil based poly and Danish oil or boiled linseed oil 50/50 by volume. Rag on heavy, let sit 10 min., wipe off excess. Scuff w/220 between coats. At least three coats.
How glossy do you want it?
Build a bunch of coats then sand 400-600-1000, then rub out with auto rubbing compound then something with a finer cut.
How glossy do you want it?
Build a bunch of coats then sand 400-600-1000, then rub out with auto rubbing compound then something with a finer cut.
kevin9
NES Member
You need to make sure the surface is smooth to get a real glossy finish, which may include filling the grain/pores in the wood. There are multiple ways to do this using shellac, sanding sealer, grain filler, poly, varnish, or TruOil.
Shellac, sanding sealer, grain filler, and poly all involve applying the layers of the material to the wood then sanding/scraping it down to a level surface. Once the wood is level then switch to your final finish (ex. poly or lacquer) and apply thin layers with fine sanding to get the gloss you want. I prefer shellac as wood filler for this approach because it drys quickly and is compatible with almost all final finishes. I would recommend poly as the top finish for this approach as I've found brush-on lacquer to be a real pain to get smooth and level. If you have the experience and equipment to spray on lacquer then go for it. This approach can highlight the grain pattern of the wood if that's what you want. The downside is it takes time and effort, particularly to apply then sand down the initial layers.
The other approach is wet sanding with TruOil (or varnish) where the slurry of wood dust and TruOil fills the wood grain and levels the surface. Once the surface is level then thin layers of TruOil are applied similar to the above approach. This approach works well to give a deep warm glossy finish. It tends mute the grain pattern of the wood somewhat, which may not be an issue if the wood is plain or that's what you want. Personally I'd go this route for your situation. Google "wet-sanding Tru-Oil" to find detailed descriptions of the wet-sanding process.
Shellac, sanding sealer, grain filler, and poly all involve applying the layers of the material to the wood then sanding/scraping it down to a level surface. Once the wood is level then switch to your final finish (ex. poly or lacquer) and apply thin layers with fine sanding to get the gloss you want. I prefer shellac as wood filler for this approach because it drys quickly and is compatible with almost all final finishes. I would recommend poly as the top finish for this approach as I've found brush-on lacquer to be a real pain to get smooth and level. If you have the experience and equipment to spray on lacquer then go for it. This approach can highlight the grain pattern of the wood if that's what you want. The downside is it takes time and effort, particularly to apply then sand down the initial layers.
The other approach is wet sanding with TruOil (or varnish) where the slurry of wood dust and TruOil fills the wood grain and levels the surface. Once the surface is level then thin layers of TruOil are applied similar to the above approach. This approach works well to give a deep warm glossy finish. It tends mute the grain pattern of the wood somewhat, which may not be an issue if the wood is plain or that's what you want. Personally I'd go this route for your situation. Google "wet-sanding Tru-Oil" to find detailed descriptions of the wet-sanding process.
boscru
NES Member
this is my marlin model 60. bought used for $75.00, so i wasn't really worried about how it might turn out, but ended up just the way i envisioned it. didn't like the mousy brown color, so sanded it all off. left the dark stain in the checkering patterns on the stock & fore-end. i used minwax clear gloss spar urethane, my go-to for any outdoor wood projects. 3 light coats, sanded in between with 220 grit. won't be for everyone's taste, but i like it.
Minwax semi-gloss or satin ( solvent base) poly, if too glossy, gently scuff with 0000 steelwool, wipe down with tack cloth to remove any steel wool filings and paste wax with a good number of coats ( min. 3 coats) it'll give you a nice warm glow . Just my two cents
One thing I'd definitely recommend you do is the wet sanding.
I'm not all that into glossy but have used the tru-oil on a few and some S&W stocks also with nice results.
This is a Remington 722 stock that was wet sanded and finished with linseed oil and a waxing.
I'm not all that into glossy but have used the tru-oil on a few and some S&W stocks also with nice results.
This is a Remington 722 stock that was wet sanded and finished with linseed oil and a waxing.
The wet sanding definitely provides a nice finish.One thing I'd definitely recommend you do is the wet sanding.
I'm not all that into glossy but have used the tru-oil on a few and some S&W stocks also with nice results.
This is a Remington 722 stock that was wet sanded and finished with linseed oil and a waxing.
Just a not on poly any imperfections in the wood can be highlighted greatly and it can be a lot of work trying to sand and cover them.
amm5061
NES Member
One thing I'd definitely recommend you do is the wet sanding.
I'm not all that into glossy but have used the tru-oil on a few and some S&W stocks also with nice results.
This is a Remington 722 stock that was wet sanded and finished with linseed oil and a waxing.
Wow! Nice results from that. I love how the oil brought the grain of the wood out. Looks great!
