Just got a new G23 Gen 4 for Carrying and I was looking around these forums and on youtube, and saw the 25 cent glock trigger job. Is it worth doing, by itself to the OEM trigger group to lighten the trigger pull and eliminate some of the grittiness? I have also seen Ghost 3.5lb trigger connector that people have put in. I haven't been able to find anyone who talks about having that light of a trigger on a Glock for CC. Any drawbacks besides needing better trigger discipline? I saw a guy on Youtube who did the 25 cent job, as well as the 3.5lb trigger connector and a smooth face trigger. People seem to have no problems with the stock parts and keeping the reliability of the gun in tact. Any suggestions on which path to take?
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Glock 23 Gen 4 Ghost 3.5 lb trigger connector or .25 cent trigger job?
- Thread starter Dun_right
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Ghost Evo Elite
I highly recommend doing the $.025 trigger job (by hand, not dremel). It's cheap, it'll help you learn your internals, and you really can't screw it up (again, just cotton swabs and polishing compound). I could feel a noticeable improvement in my G19.
I will tell you though that this is my first Glock and I went a little trigger crazy. Did the polish then put in an increased weight trigger spring (6lb) which actually lowers your pull weight, and then the 3.5 lb connector. Didn't work out so well for me. One or two guys on another forum said it was my fault and that, mechanically, there is nothing wrong with that combination. They said I wasn't gripping it right or I was riding the trigger or wasnt properly managing the recoil. Whatever the problem, the trigger pull was so light that on more than one occasion, I pulled the the trigger and more than one round was fired. That'll get your attention. Maybe they were right, I don't know but I backtracked from there and put just the stock connector back in (easier of the two parts to change out). That brought the pull weight back up just enough to make it comfortably reliable while still being much lighter and smoother than factory.
Eventually I also put in a reduced weight safety plunger spring and a G17 smooth trigger. This does not lighten the trigger weight but smooths taking that initial pressure on the safety and makes for a more comfortable pull.
YMMV
I will tell you though that this is my first Glock and I went a little trigger crazy. Did the polish then put in an increased weight trigger spring (6lb) which actually lowers your pull weight, and then the 3.5 lb connector. Didn't work out so well for me. One or two guys on another forum said it was my fault and that, mechanically, there is nothing wrong with that combination. They said I wasn't gripping it right or I was riding the trigger or wasnt properly managing the recoil. Whatever the problem, the trigger pull was so light that on more than one occasion, I pulled the the trigger and more than one round was fired. That'll get your attention. Maybe they were right, I don't know but I backtracked from there and put just the stock connector back in (easier of the two parts to change out). That brought the pull weight back up just enough to make it comfortably reliable while still being much lighter and smoother than factory.
Eventually I also put in a reduced weight safety plunger spring and a G17 smooth trigger. This does not lighten the trigger weight but smooths taking that initial pressure on the safety and makes for a more comfortable pull.
YMMV
bren42970
NES Member
I second that
I did the Ghost Edge because I didn't want to deal with the install of the Evo Elite connector. I don't believe either connector actually lowers the trigger pull to 3.5lbs. My trigger feels a little lighter but mostly just a lot smoother. Also I think you answered your own question as far as CC is concerned.
dcmdon
NES Member
The 3.5 lb weight they all claim is based on pulling the trigger with the very tip of the trigger.
I''m a big fan of only Glock factory parts in my defensive Glocks. To that end, I usually install the "-" connector along with a full fluff and buff on all the bearing surfaces.
I'm a big fan of Cratex (google it) heads for my flex shaft polisher.
With a "-" connector and a full fluff and buff, I end up at about 4.6 lbs measured from the middle of the trigger bow using a Lyman digital gauge. That seems about right for a defensive gun. Shoot, its about a half pound heavier than most of my high quality 1911s.
Don
I''m a big fan of only Glock factory parts in my defensive Glocks. To that end, I usually install the "-" connector along with a full fluff and buff on all the bearing surfaces.
I'm a big fan of Cratex (google it) heads for my flex shaft polisher.
With a "-" connector and a full fluff and buff, I end up at about 4.6 lbs measured from the middle of the trigger bow using a Lyman digital gauge. That seems about right for a defensive gun. Shoot, its about a half pound heavier than most of my high quality 1911s.
Don
dcmdon
NES Member
Not true.
A fluff and buff, combined with a 4# striker spring (stock is 5.5#) can make a range gun much easier to shoot well for a couple of bucks.
I wouldn't use it for defensive purposes with the lighter striker.
For a defensive gun a fluff and buff along with a "-" connector from glock gets you 90% of the goodness of a custom trigger for 20% the cost.
This will drop the trigger down to a REAL 5.5 is pounds and make it nice and smooth.
Don
A fluff and buff, combined with a 4# striker spring (stock is 5.5#) can make a range gun much easier to shoot well for a couple of bucks.
I wouldn't use it for defensive purposes with the lighter striker.
For a defensive gun a fluff and buff along with a "-" connector from glock gets you 90% of the goodness of a custom trigger for 20% the cost.
This will drop the trigger down to a REAL 5.5 is pounds and make it nice and smooth.
Don
dcmdon
NES Member
A fluff and buff costs 25 cents. I said 90% of the goodness with 20% of the cost. So that is about $20.
Here is a link to the minus connector on Amazon -
http://smile.amazon.com/GLOCK-ORIGI...449710297&sr=8-3&keywords=glock+4.5+connector
don
WaldoOneFive
NES Member
25 cent trigger job then LEAVE IT STOCK!
Shoot the hell out of it, and do a ton of dry firing practice. the trigger will not be gritty for long and will eventually become a nice smooth break.
Shoot the hell out of it, and do a ton of dry firing practice. the trigger will not be gritty for long and will eventually become a nice smooth break.
45collector
NES Member
I did the polish method on all 3 of my Glocks and results were good. I was't so concerned with dropping the pull weight as I was getting rid of the grittiness.
Glockster30
NES Member
Don, until I saw this thread, I thought that I understood Glock connectors, but I guess not. The standard connector for the Gen1-3 Glocks is 5.5# and has no markings on it. After introducing the Gen4 models, ATF agents felt that the stock connector was too heavy with a pull that varied between 5.5# and 6.5#. ATF then tried the "-" 4.5# connector and felt that the trigger pull was too light.
As a result of this, Glock came out with the #5 Gen4 connector, which was/is the marked as the dot "." connector measured at 5.5#, which is supposed to give a real 5# pull in a Gen4. Since ATF was satisfied with the #5 connector, Glock started releasing all new model Gen4s, I think somewhere maybe in 2012 with the #5 connector.
(All of this reads like Goldilocks and the "just right" stories.)
In addition, the Glock Armorer's parts list does not list a "-" 3.5# connector, but it does list a "-" 4.5# connector. Is the "-" 4.5# connector actually the "-" 3.5# connector that everyone refers to?
ToddDubya
NES Member
I seem to recall that the minus connector is what used to be called the 3.5# connector. I also seem to recall that it's now called the 4.5# connector but the design hasn't changed. I put that in my police trade-in G19 and it works great for me.
Now I'm really stretching so I hope someone confirms or contradicts what I write, but the trigger pull weight is not entirely determined by the connector, but also by the trigger spring. Here's a little comparison of some of the options.
http://glock.pro/glock-tech-warranty/5756-connector-comparison-test-4.html#post72251
Now I'm really stretching so I hope someone confirms or contradicts what I write, but the trigger pull weight is not entirely determined by the connector, but also by the trigger spring. Here's a little comparison of some of the options.
http://glock.pro/glock-tech-warranty/5756-connector-comparison-test-4.html#post72251
Yes.
The dot connector most certainly doesn't yield a 5.5 pound pull. Even my Gen4s with the true minus connector are still slightly above 5 lbs on a gauge. Just ignore the published weights, the only thing you can trust is an actual gauge. The dot connector is this ****y thing that Glock created because they ****ed up the trigger system slightly when they made the Gen4s and it yielded a slightly heavier weight in the system. So the dot is kind of a compromise. I think all the Gen4s probably ship with the dot now, although I could be wrong. I don't really pay attention to it because I rip it out and throw it in a parts bin somewhere and immediately put in a 3.5. The dot gets you a similar feel to the old stock 5.5 connector. You take a Gen4 with the old stock connector and you'll probably have about a 7lb trigger. I'll have to look at my G30Gen4 when I get home, it's the only Glock I have that still has the stock connector in it (I had a stash of 3.5s, theyre all gone now) I'll see whether or not it has the dot. I bet it does.
Also, what ToddDubya says is right... the spring there plays a role, but most of the pull weight is determined by the striker spring. It's very difficult to go below 4lbs in a Glock without futzing with the striker spring, which is bad. (it screws up the entire gun, IMHO).
-Mike
dcmdon
NES Member
The first thing that we all need to establish is where the trigger pull is measured from.
The tip of the trigger or the bow. There is a significant difference in test weights between the two locations.
The old 3.5 lb connector glocks, like my Gen 3 G34 came with the 3.5 lb connector. This usually yielded a 3.5lb (ish) pull if measured from the tip of the trigger. Which is pointless.
Measured from the belly of the bow, it was 4.75 to 5 lbs.
Re the Dot connector. To anyone who doesn't know the story. The ATF was the CUSTOMER and asked for a connector with a pull somewhere between the standard and the "-" trigger. The ATF was NOT telling glock that they needed to change their guns that they sold to the rest of us.
So.
Whenever you hear someone quote a Glock trigger pull, you should immeidately ask yourself , and maybe the person
1) Where did you put the trigger pull gauge on the trigger
2) did you even use a trigger pull gauge.
Many people estimate it when they really have no freaking clue. None.
If you own a trigger gauge, you will beome better at estimating because you can compare your feel with the gauge.
Whenever I measure a Glock trigger pull, I measure with a Lyman digital gauge from the middle of the bow.
If you look at a review like this, you can't see where he is pulling from. But based on the angle it looks like he is dragging the gauge down the gap between the end of the trigger and the trigger guard. This works great when doing comparisons because it gives a consistent pull. But it gives erroneously low numbers.
The tip of the trigger or the bow. There is a significant difference in test weights between the two locations.
The old 3.5 lb connector glocks, like my Gen 3 G34 came with the 3.5 lb connector. This usually yielded a 3.5lb (ish) pull if measured from the tip of the trigger. Which is pointless.
Measured from the belly of the bow, it was 4.75 to 5 lbs.
Re the Dot connector. To anyone who doesn't know the story. The ATF was the CUSTOMER and asked for a connector with a pull somewhere between the standard and the "-" trigger. The ATF was NOT telling glock that they needed to change their guns that they sold to the rest of us.
So.
Whenever you hear someone quote a Glock trigger pull, you should immeidately ask yourself , and maybe the person
1) Where did you put the trigger pull gauge on the trigger
2) did you even use a trigger pull gauge.
Many people estimate it when they really have no freaking clue. None.
If you own a trigger gauge, you will beome better at estimating because you can compare your feel with the gauge.
Whenever I measure a Glock trigger pull, I measure with a Lyman digital gauge from the middle of the bow.
If you look at a review like this, you can't see where he is pulling from. But based on the angle it looks like he is dragging the gauge down the gap between the end of the trigger and the trigger guard. This works great when doing comparisons because it gives a consistent pull. But it gives erroneously low numbers.
Last edited by a moderator:
You need to first shoot the gun to see how it feels.
Next check the trigger pull weight.
Above info is correct when the original Gen4's came out the supposed 5.5# factory pull was more like 6.5#. This may be different now with the new model. You need to decide the purpose of the gun and what weight you want the trigger to be at.
The polish job is simple will take some of the crunchy feel out of the trigger pull. Nothing wrong with a dremel, felt pad and some polishing compound. Will get the surfaces to glass in short time. I have stoned burred edges on the trigger bar safety bump and the connector bar prior to polishing. Do not use a file and remove material as that will get you into a potential problem.
Trigger pull waits are cheap and easy. The 3.5# connector bars are a simple safe mod. Putting the 3.5 connector in one of the original gen4's did not get the pull down to 3.5#.
The next moves would involve going to reduced springs which are available at several reputable suppliers. You would only be doing this for a competition gun where you are getting closer to the +-3# pull weights- you probably don't want this for a carry Gun.
Here are mods to a G17 gen4
polish job
zev v4 3.5 connector
wolf 5lb firing pin spring
wolf reduced safety plunger spring
glock oem gen 3 trigger assembly
This got the trigger pull down to 3.7#. The spring changes were very slight and the aftermarket connector bars are very reliable, besides these changes I wouldn't do much more to the gun. It's best to keep it as close to stock as possible for reliability.
Next check the trigger pull weight.
Above info is correct when the original Gen4's came out the supposed 5.5# factory pull was more like 6.5#. This may be different now with the new model. You need to decide the purpose of the gun and what weight you want the trigger to be at.
The polish job is simple will take some of the crunchy feel out of the trigger pull. Nothing wrong with a dremel, felt pad and some polishing compound. Will get the surfaces to glass in short time. I have stoned burred edges on the trigger bar safety bump and the connector bar prior to polishing. Do not use a file and remove material as that will get you into a potential problem.
Trigger pull waits are cheap and easy. The 3.5# connector bars are a simple safe mod. Putting the 3.5 connector in one of the original gen4's did not get the pull down to 3.5#.
The next moves would involve going to reduced springs which are available at several reputable suppliers. You would only be doing this for a competition gun where you are getting closer to the +-3# pull weights- you probably don't want this for a carry Gun.
Here are mods to a G17 gen4
polish job
zev v4 3.5 connector
wolf 5lb firing pin spring
wolf reduced safety plunger spring
glock oem gen 3 trigger assembly
This got the trigger pull down to 3.7#. The spring changes were very slight and the aftermarket connector bars are very reliable, besides these changes I wouldn't do much more to the gun. It's best to keep it as close to stock as possible for reliability.
dcmdon
NES Member
I was able to get my Gen 4 G34 down to around 3# (measured in the middle of the bow, with a Lyman gauge) but it is now only fit for "games".
Its all stock inside except for 3 things.
1) wolff low power striker safety plunger spring
2) 4# striker spring - stock is 5.5#. I use this ONLY with my reloads using federal primers. (federal primers are more sensitive)
3) "-" glock connector.
I tried using a stiffer heavier spring, which ligntens the pull since it pulls back on the trigger, but it screwed up the reset. I didn't like it.
On this gun, I also detail stripped it and polished every surface of every metal part in the trigger group to a mirror shine. I also stoned the inside of the frame where the trigger bar contacts to remove any flash.
Don
