Glock .357 SIG FTE Problem

[Zappa]

Hey, I'm actually asking a gun question instead of posting silliness in the Off Topic Section for once

OK, here's the deal. I have a Glock 27 and I got an aftermarket .357 SIG barrel for it. The gun goes bang and the bullet goes downrange, but I'm getting MANY failures to eject. The extractor is gripping the rim alright, and when I cycle the slide by hand it works just fine, it just seems that the cartridge dosen't have enough "oomph" to kick the slide back all the way for proper cycling.
Yes, I am using handloads. I started on the low end of the power scale and worked up my loads from there. The last load I tested was just a hair below the max charge listed in my books and I'm still having the same problem.
What I'm thinking is that the stock recoil spring for the G27 (.40 cal) is just too heavy for the .357 SIG and I need to go with a lighter one.

Is this a fair assumption?

 

[GLOCK.Perfection]

I was going to guess the recoil spring, but wouldnt the 357 need a heavier spring if anything?

Try posting this on glocktalk.com too and you will get a lot more input.

 

[Zappa]

I was going to guess the recoil spring, but wouldnt the 357 need a heavier spring if anything?

Try posting this on glocktalk.com too and you will get a lot more input.

You would think so, but following the principle of "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" it would seem that a lighter spring would be needed. Reason being projectile weight. .40 Cal is 180 grain while .357 SIG is only 125 grain. I know velocity figures into this also, that's why I thought a faster load would cure the problem.

 

[Gammon]

A lighter recoil spring would most likely cure the problem.

 

[wolf223]

can't offer anything on the reloads


i do use a 40 to 9mm conversion barrel on G23 w/o issues to date. 200ish rounds

i also picked up a factory .357 sig barrel for my M&P40 w/o issues as well. 50 rounds to date.

-that's all i have...

 

[KMM696]

When I still had my G27, I bought a factory 357 Sig barrel for it, and ran a couple hundred through with no issues. Factory recoil spring was installed, but since it was used when I bought it, I'm not sure how fresh that spring was.

Dropping down to the next spring weight would certainly be an easy fix. I would have some concerns that the frame would get beat up more.

Will the slide lock back reliably on the last round?

Glock does run some pretty loose chambers - if the aftermarket barrel is a normal or tight chamber, perhaps dropping the spring weight is the way to go.

 

[Bugs100]

I have a lot of different weight recoil springs just for that reason. Drop down to a spring that's 2 pounds lighter and see how that works.

Glocks springs can vary widely in strength as seen here from Wolf springs.

Glock 27, .40 S&W
Glock 33, .357 Sig
Wolff recoil springs for Glock 26, 27 and 33 are matched sets of inner and outer springs. Extra power spring sets help improve recoil function in these pistols. Springs are for use with Wolff Guide Rod Components. Springs are non-captive for easy changes on Wolff guide rods listed below. A replacement factory strength striker spring is included.

* Reduced Power...: 14 Lb
* Factory Standard.: 16 Lb.
* Extra Power.........: 18, 20, 22 and 24 Lb.
www.gunsprings.com

 

[glockguy17]

Could it be the aftermarket barrel? If you got a stock Glock 357 barrel that would rule in/out the spring issues and avoid going too light on the springs and beating up the frame

 

[Ray-500]

I have a lot of different weight recoil springs just for that reason. Drop down to a spring that's 2 pounds lighter and see how that works.

Glocks springs can vary widely in strength as seen here from Wolf springs.

Glock 27, .40 S&W
Glock 33, .357 Sig
Wolff recoil springs for Glock 26, 27 and 33 are matched sets of inner and outer springs. Extra power spring sets help improve recoil function in these pistols. Springs are for use with Wolff Guide Rod Components. Springs are non-captive for easy changes on Wolff guide rods listed below. A replacement factory strength striker spring is included.

* Reduced Power...: 14 Lb
* Factory Standard.: 16 Lb.
* Extra Power.........: 18, 20, 22 and 24 Lb.
www.gunsprings.com

That's what I had to do with my LAR Grizzly in .45 Win Mag....cut the spring. Was getting FTF at 6-7, and do not have "limp wrist". Cut two turns off the spring as a start....did not have to go any further. Worked fine after that.

 

[Gammon]

When I still had my G27, I bought a factory 357 Sig barrel for it, and ran a couple hundred through with no issues. Factory recoil spring was installed, but since it was used when I bought it, I'm not sure how fresh that spring was.

Dropping down to the next spring weight would certainly be an easy fix. I would have some concerns that the frame would get beat up more.

Will the slide lock back reliably on the last round?

Glock does run some pretty loose chambers - if the aftermarket barrel is a normal or tight chamber, perhaps dropping the spring weight is the way to go.

Buffers are available for Glocks from Brownells.

 

[GSG]

Hey, I'm actually asking a gun question instead of posting silliness in the Off Topic Section for once

OK, here's the deal. I have a Glock 27 and I got an aftermarket .357 SIG barrel for it. The gun goes bang and the bullet goes downrange, but I'm getting MANY failures to eject. The extractor is gripping the rim alright, and when I cycle the slide by hand it works just fine, it just seems that the cartridge dosen't have enough "oomph" to kick the slide back all the way for proper cycling.
Yes, I am using handloads. I started on the low end of the power scale and worked up my loads from there. The last load I tested was just a hair below the max charge listed in my books and I'm still having the same problem.
What I'm thinking is that the stock recoil spring for the G27 (.40 cal) is just too heavy for the .357 SIG and I need to go with a lighter one.

Is this a fair assumption?

Did you figure this out yet? I have an idea.

A lot of the older Glocks came with regular extractors, but the newer ones come with the LCI (loaded chamber indicator ) extractor. A lot of companies sell a LCI extractor kit (http://glockmeister.com/product_info.php?products_id=328). I bought them for my Glocks and think they're fantastic.

When I changed out the parts, I noticed that the LCI internals are just a little bit different than the old-style internals.

Here's my idea. Maybe your gun has mis-matched extractors and springs, if that makes sense. Have you tried changing these? Or did this sort itself out?

 

[Zappa]

Did you figure this out yet? I have an idea.

A lot of the older Glocks came with regular extractors, but the newer ones come with the LCI (loaded chamber indicator ) extractor. A lot of companies sell a LCI extractor kit (http://glockmeister.com/product_info.php?products_id=328). I bought them for my Glocks and think they're fantastic.

When I changed out the parts, I noticed that the LCI internals are just a little bit different than the old-style internals.

Here's my idea. Maybe your gun has mis-matched extractors and springs, if that makes sense. Have you tried changing these? Or did this sort itself out?

I haven't done anything with it yet, I haven't even been to the range yet this year. My G27 is a very early model, "BYZ" prefix dates it to 7/96 and I've owned it since 11/98. I bought it (used) right after Mass said I can't get one anymore, so it was an "FU" purchase . It works perfectly with all the .40's I've used, with both the stock barrel and with the KKM .40 barrel. I asked around in a few other places and the replies I got were to try the lighter springs, or try some hotter ammo. One thing I forgot to mention was that the .357 SIG barrel is threaded and slightly longer. Also, having a smaller bore, it has more mass so it's heavier than the .40 barrel. When I add the fake supressor, the problem is MUCH worse. So I'm led to believe that the extra mass is slowing down the recoil impulse enough that the slide isn't coming all the way back to fully cycle. I'm going to go with the lighter spring to see if that solves my problem.

 

[GSG]

I haven't done anything with it yet, I haven't even been to the range yet this year. My G27 is a very early model, "BYZ" prefix dates it to 7/96 and I've owned it since 11/98. I bought it (used) right after Mass said I can't get one anymore, so it was an "FU" purchase . It works perfectly with all the .40's I've used, with both the stock barrel and with the KKM .40 barrel. I asked around in a few other places and the replies I got were to try the lighter springs, or try some hotter ammo. One thing I forgot to mention was that the .357 SIG barrel is threaded and slightly longer. Also, having a smaller bore, it has more mass so it's heavier than the .40 barrel. When I add the fake supressor, the problem is MUCH worse. So I'm led to believe that the extra mass is slowing down the recoil impulse enough that the slide isn't coming all the way back to fully cycle. I'm going to go with the lighter spring to see if that solves my problem.

Alright, thanks for the reply, good to know, keep us posted.