Glock Guide Rod

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If this topic has been beaten to death, I couldn't find it. My question is which rod to get. I'm looking at purchasing either a SS or Tungsten, but wonder if the $50 pricetag on the tungsten is justifiable. I can get a brand new SS rod w/spring AND a buffer for $38 so you can probably figure which way I'm leaning. However, I want the best for my G21 and would like your opinions on this subject. Though I have prior experience with Glocks, I've never owned one myself until recently and thus have never really got into the intricacies of upgrading. I'm new to this and could use pointers of which I know many of you posess. Thanks for your time all. [grin]
 
What would a tungsten guide rod do for you that a stainless steel guide rod would not (other than extract more money from your credit card)?
 
Having had all that crap, don't bother. The tungsten rod adds a tiny bit
of weight up front, but it's not a huge difference.

The plastic one from the factory works fine. It's also easier to deal
with. when it wears out... you just throw it away and get a new unit for
not much money.

The only reason I'd ever go to an uncaptured guide rod is if you had some
pet loads that were either way too weak or way too hot for the factory
springs. Otherwise, you're probably just wasting money.

-Mike
 
So I take it that the stock guide rod's just as good as any of the upgrades then? It's just that the Glock I bought is 13 years old and have read that changing the guide rod every 1000-2000 rds. is likely necessary for the weapon to function properly. I don't know if the rod's ever been changed, I mean it does look somewhat worn, but being as old as it is, it probably needs a new one and that being the case, why not at the very least a SS rod? I'm all about being frugal, so if all I really need is a new factory rod, then so be it. [grin]
 
The factory guide rod is fine. You can by two or three for the price of a stainless one.

I'll tell you what, buy two factory guide rod assemblies, and after 26 years, if they wear out, PM me and I'll buy you a stainless one.
 
So I take it that the stock guide rod's just as good as any of the upgrades then? It's just that the Glock I bought is 13 years old and have read that changing the guide rod every 1000-2000 rds. is likely necessary for the weapon to function properly. I don't know if the rod's ever been changed, I mean it does look somewhat worn, but being as old as it is, it probably needs a new one and that being the case, why not at the very least a SS rod? I'm all about being frugal, so if all I really need is a new factory rod, then so be it. [grin]

Do the Glock recoil spring test...

Drop mag, unload the gun. Check to see it's unloaded. Check again just to be 110% sure. Safety first.

Point gun in safe direction. Pull trigger (striker will release) and HOLD the trigger back all the way with your trigger finger.

While doing this (keeping pressure on the trigger the whole time) . Point the gun skyward (90 degrees, muzzle straight up in the air. ) Pull the slide back all the way and slowly and gently release it about 95% of the way, and then just let it go that last little bit before lockup. If the gun goes fully into battery (barrel goes into full lockup) on its own then your spring is fine. If the gun is out of battery and the slide will not close on its own, (without you pushing or touching it) then you have a bad recoil spring and should replace it. Even if the gun seems to work properly you should plan on replacing the spring soon. This test works pretty reliably on all Glock handguns.

-Mike
 
The tungsten rod adds about 1.5 oz to the gun at the muzzle where it will be most effective. I use one and prefer it to the stock item.
 
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