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Has Anyone Used a 5D Jig?
- Thread starter kman
- Start date
Kylep427
NES Member
I have one, work great. No real issues, they simply work and you have a nice product when done. Be careful and take your time, you can screw up the bit pretty easy and you need another $44 bit if you get in a hurry. It takes about 1 hour for a lower. Spend the extra and get the pro so you can do 308 lowers too.
amm5061
NES Member
If it's anything like the 80% Arms jig knockoff that it looks like, it should work well. I haven't heard anything bad about it so far. Like @Kylep427 said, take your time and don't cut too deep on each pass with the router. If you're using the little DeWalt definitely do half or quarter steps down.
I ended up ordering the Ridgid reburb jobbie off amazon. Maybe I should have gotten the Dewalt but I'll see how it goes. I have a 20 year old full size Skill plunge router but I thought I didn't want to waste the time or money seeing if their adapter would fit it. I ordered the jig from 5D but the parts from Daytona Tactical. Seemed like a better deal. Maybe I'll do some video of it since I saw 5D will give you discounts if you make detailed video.
babygorilla
NES Member
Why would believe ANYTHING a tard on the floor at Lowes or HD says?
Glockster30
NES Member
Is the ReadyMill sold separately a necessary requirement?
GM-GUY
NES Member
I have a 5D used with a Dewalt 611 (recommended on the 5D site). It works awesome, I’ve done a couple AR-15 & one AR-10.
I was starting to get some excessive chatter and tougher cutting so I swapped the bit using a MAPP torch - works just like the videos from 5D.
I was starting to get some excessive chatter and tougher cutting so I swapped the bit using a MAPP torch - works just like the videos from 5D.
Kylep427
NES Member
I have the Rigid router, works fine, just have to go slower when you down to the bottom, seem to get a little flex on the bit and I get chatter. I just don’t take a much bite on each pass as they recommend, it just take a little longer. Get a headlamp as well, other wise you can’t see anything. See the joy it brings?
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amm5061
NES Member
Guy at Lowes is a putz. It works just fine milling aluminum. Ask me how I know.
5D with Ridgid works well. They usually run sales so maybe wait for Black Friday or Cyber Monday. I've seen free lowers or free tooling packages with a jig purchase a few times.
Make sure the router is set to full speed.
Take really small bites.
Let the end-mill and lower cool between passes. If the bit gets too hot it'll temper and permanently lose hardness and then dull quickly. You should not see a light straw/blue discoloration. The lower will also expand as it gets hot and shrink when cool so it's possible to throw off your tolerances a few thousandths.
The trigger pin and safety selector holes need to be very accurate or the trigger, hammer, disconnect and safety won't interact correctly and then the lower is scrap. Take your time here. It's the last step and it's easy to get impatient and botch it. I read a lot of reviews and noticed that folks were admitting to making mistakes on this step.
The end-mill and end-mill holder thing use a shrink-fit so you can replace just the end-mill for about $25 if you have a torch to heat it. Heat the holder so it expands, remove and replace the end-mill, let it cool and shrink.
Definitely use a vacuum. Duct tape or electrical tape your vacuum hose to the port on the jig if they won't mate.
Wear a full face shield or the chips will fly right in your mouth.
The chips cover everything within a 5 foot radius so try to set up your workspace right in the middle of your garage. All you have to do is vacuum the floor when you're done.
It takes while. One hour is optimistic. Three hours is probably more realistic for the first time. You have to assemble the jig, get all set up, drill it, mill it, drill it again and clean up the mess. Try to sit comfortably at a bench and rest your elbows/forearms. You'll be more steady and have better fine motor control.
Try to make your "finish passes" along the walls a light cut. Start in the center hole and spiral outward. When you get near the walls slow down take a really small cut so the end-mill won't chatter and leave a rough surface finish. You can get a mirror finish if you do it right.
The Ridgid router has some backlash in the rack and pinion system that controls the height adjustment so be sure to push the two halves of the router together before you tighten down the quick release cam lever thing. If you don't take that play out of it then the bit might creep down a 16th or so while you're cutting.
Make sure the router is set to full speed.
Take really small bites.
Let the end-mill and lower cool between passes. If the bit gets too hot it'll temper and permanently lose hardness and then dull quickly. You should not see a light straw/blue discoloration. The lower will also expand as it gets hot and shrink when cool so it's possible to throw off your tolerances a few thousandths.
The trigger pin and safety selector holes need to be very accurate or the trigger, hammer, disconnect and safety won't interact correctly and then the lower is scrap. Take your time here. It's the last step and it's easy to get impatient and botch it. I read a lot of reviews and noticed that folks were admitting to making mistakes on this step.
The end-mill and end-mill holder thing use a shrink-fit so you can replace just the end-mill for about $25 if you have a torch to heat it. Heat the holder so it expands, remove and replace the end-mill, let it cool and shrink.
Definitely use a vacuum. Duct tape or electrical tape your vacuum hose to the port on the jig if they won't mate.
Wear a full face shield or the chips will fly right in your mouth.
The chips cover everything within a 5 foot radius so try to set up your workspace right in the middle of your garage. All you have to do is vacuum the floor when you're done.
It takes while. One hour is optimistic. Three hours is probably more realistic for the first time. You have to assemble the jig, get all set up, drill it, mill it, drill it again and clean up the mess. Try to sit comfortably at a bench and rest your elbows/forearms. You'll be more steady and have better fine motor control.
Try to make your "finish passes" along the walls a light cut. Start in the center hole and spiral outward. When you get near the walls slow down take a really small cut so the end-mill won't chatter and leave a rough surface finish. You can get a mirror finish if you do it right.
The Ridgid router has some backlash in the rack and pinion system that controls the height adjustment so be sure to push the two halves of the router together before you tighten down the quick release cam lever thing. If you don't take that play out of it then the bit might creep down a 16th or so while you're cutting.
Glockster30
NES Member
Thanks, that's what I thought. I didn't look at all the Pro kit pics but now I found it.
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