How to get started in smallbore rifle competition?

FrugalFannie

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Anything and everything I need to know to get started.
Where can I learn more? Where are the competitions around here? Can I use my Marlin 25 to start? Is there a book or website that will explain what I NEED and how the competition is run? WHat about these different targets I have heard of? Can I go watch and ask questions? Anyone from Westford Sportsmen's club do this? I appreciate your help.
 
Most (many? some?) areas have a smallbore league; there's one among the clubs just north of Boston and I bet there's something further north, too. (But I don't know either way about Westford.)

Your best bet is finding a smallbore clinic somewhere that will run through the full routine for you, since it's a somewhat complicated and gear-intensive sport and getting started with a club's loaner gear is by far the easiest way to go. This is a good time of year for it, since if a club is running one it will be happening around now.

For what you absolutely need, a rifle with good iron sights. Preferably one with a sling and stock that you can set up for kneeling and prone. The Marlin 25 is a decent rifle; an adjustable stock helps a lot for rifle fitting and if the club has some super-snazzy loaner rifles I'd start with those, but your choice. Ideally, you'd go back in time and pick up one of the used Kimber M82 rifles that the CMP were selling for really cheap; they've only got new ones now that they're selling for quite a bit more. (Grab one for me, too!) The Mossberg M44s that they have now for $175 are nice, but I'd really want at least an adjustable buttstock and hand stop if you're buying something to compete.

Past that, good accessories to have are a shooting jacket with padding in the right places, a heavy glove for your non-shooting hand, and a mat (could just be a hunk of carpet) to make prone on hard cement floors less annoying. A spotting scope is good, but they're among the easiest things to borrow.

A standard match involves shooting some number of targets prone, standing, and then kneeling. The targets are all the same, usually ten separate bulls on one sheet, one shot per bull. The link below has some info on how the positions work if you've never done three-position shooting; it's almost impossible to describe in words, hard with pictures, and best learned in person from a good coach.

Here's somebody else's page about starting smallbore on the cheap; there's some pretty good advice in here:

http://www.smallbore.20m.com/smallbore_rifle/about_smallbore_rifle.html

The NRA rulebooks are online here:

http://www.nrahq.org/compete/nra-rule-books.asp

Have fun!
 
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smallbore

I shoot in a small league north of Boston. We shoot at MRA, Reading Rifle and Woburn Sportsmans clubs. I belong to Haverhill Hound Rod and Gun. It is a really friendly and fun group who enjoy helping new shooters get started. Please feel free to PM or email me and we'll see if we can get you started. [email protected]
 
Penny, if you'd like to improve your shooting skills, we're having an Appleseed Shoot this weekend at the gun club in Winchendon, MA - considering that ladies shoot for FREE, that leaves as your costs for the weekend gasoline, $5/day range fee and your ammo.
 
Having shot competition smallbore for years, by suggestion would be to borrow everything at first until you know exactly what you need. 90% of the sport is practice and many start the wrong way by focusing on all the fancy gear. That gear will earn you a few points per match once you are "up there", but that doesnt help you much when you are throwing 6's in offhand and struggling with the basics.

I would suggest shooting prone until you can knock out 100's with consistency on the A17 targets. That way you get all the fundamentals of sight picture and trigger pull and breathing out of the way in the easiest position. Then you can really move into the other positions...

Once you get good, its 90% about offhand position. Most good ranked shooters can shoot 98-100s prone, slighly less kneeling. That means through both positions youll be dropping as many points combined as you can drop with one bad shot in offhand.
 
Getting to an Appleseed would be an excellent jump start.

Much of what is taught carries over to Smallbore.

I used to be a Smallbore competitor myself, many years back.
 
I also shoot smallbore at Mass Rifle in Woburn (not sure what the league is called, technically). I started a couple of years ago, and the club let me borrow (for matches) some of the club's Weirauch rifles until I purchased my own rifle. We shoot Friday nights, starting in early November through around March or so, and are always happy to have new shooters.

To answer your question about how to get started, I would recommend reading everything you possibly can on target shooting. Doing so will solidify your technical base, so you know why you might want product A over product B, or whether you even want to bother with getting either item at all. You'll also know how to shoot - how to position your body for optimum support, trigger control, concentration, etc.

One really good forum for all things target shooting is www.targettalk.org. The members there are very knowledgeable and extremely friendly. You can also check out the myriad of excellent articles hosted by Pilk Guns (a target shooting supplier) at http://www.pilkguns.com/menu_coaching.shtml. For books, any of the books at this page would be excellent http://www.pilkguns.com/books.shtml. The best would be Ways of the Rifle, which is consider by many to be the best book on smallbore shooting (I'm not affiliated with Pilk Guns; they simply have a good selection of articles and literature - many of the books are available elsewhere too).

Regarding equipment, you need a rifle, a shooting glove, and a sling. Smallbore shooters have TONS of gear, but if you have the above 3 items, you're in business. The sling is used for prone shooting, and connects your stock to your left (nonshooting) arm to make a rock solid support. The glove is basically a big cushion so your hand doesn't hurt too bad during prone, and to give a solid interface with the rifle in offhand. Most clubs will have an extra sling and probably an extra shooting glove that you can borrow. The sling should be a TARGET style sling, NOT a hunting sling. Target slings have a loop into which you put your arm, rather than just providing support when you throw your rifle over your shoulder.

Other niceties are a spotting scope and stand/tripoed (so you can see where your shots are going) and a shooting coat. A shooting coat actually makes a HUGE difference, as it really locks your upper body so you don't wobble around so much (it's almost like cheating, but everyone's doing it [smile]). You can spend hundreds on a custom shooting coat once you get into it, but I've had excellent success with Champion Shooter's Freeland ISU coat: http://www.championshooters.com/coats-ssl.htm. Midwayusa also has some Anschutz sizes on sale right now, although you should probably wait to invest in any target-shooting clothes until you know for sure you like it, and know what you want.

As for your rifle, you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to target rifles. You do get more accuracy with more expensive guns, but any gun that isn't a total POS should be able to hold the 10 ring at 50 feet with decent ammo. What you really get with more expensive rifles (read "Anschutz") is ergonomics. As you'll see when you shoot offhand (standing), you basically get yourself into the best position your body design allows, and then adjust the rifle to fit that position. The more you can adjust the rifle, the less you have to compromise your own position. That is why you see 800 million way adjustable buttstocks, cheek pads, and palm rest that extend many many inches below the rifle.

At the lower end, a good deal right now is the Savage FVT at $212 from the CMP http://www.thecmp.org/22targetcommercial.htm. It comes with peep sights (I don't know how good), their not-highly-regarded synthetic stock, and decent enough accutrigger. The savage is very accurate though. I have a different Mark II model that will shoot 1/2 inch at 50 yards no problem if I do my part. You could probably get a newer, more target-oriented stock from Boyds and have a pretty decent, inexpensive setup.

Low/mid range there is also the Russian-made CM-2: http://www.raacfirearms.com/CM-2_Cadet.htm I'm not sure where to find one right now, but a little google action should yield some hits. I've also seen some at Four Seasons and Collectors sporadically, though they might have been the junior model. Nonetheless, you can at least see if you like the fit/finish/trigger/ergonics, and then order a full size model. I believe they are in the $350-500 range, including sights. The triggers I tried were very good, particularly for the price.

Four Seasons actually has a Weirauch and Walther target rifles as of right now, at $850 and $999 respectively. Both are very decent rifles for the money.

Beyond that, you are in Anschutz territory. Feinwerkbau makes some rifles too, but Anschutz is definitely the most popular. Prices new are in the $2500-3500 range. If you get serious, you could give Mac at MTGuns a call http://mtguns.com/. He has tons and tons of older Anschutz barrels, actions, and stocks, and he can mix and match just about anything you want. I ended up with a '60s era barreled action in a (I think) 1413 stock, which he put a MEC buttplate on, all for around $1500. Not bad, considering the MEC buttstock alone was in the $250 range. That was 2 years ago, so things could have changed a bit. Newer stocks are a bit more adjustable in some places, but lets just say I have a looooooong way to go before I can blame anything on this rifle.

Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.
 
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