I need some comforting words- just reassembled my Mark III

WayneWong

WayneWong

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I started at about 8:00 am. Just finished. 4 Parts. 4 miserable parts. Between the owners manual, you tube, and a tarot card reader it becomes possible to do. The key are the parts that look like quarter wheel of cheese and a 1" strut that is referred to as the "dingleberry" on you tube. Gravity is your friend. It looks like it's in the right place, but the dingleberry is not unless the gun is held upside down. God bless the rubber mallet as well. Everything is a tight fit. Too tight. Way too tight. But it tests properly now. And I am done.

The gun is away. I'm getting a beer from the fridge.
 
This is one of those things thats easer to show you, than tell you. Check to see if you bolt locks back when its got an empty mag in it. Then with the bolt foward, check to see if your safety works. If you said yes to both, then you did it right, if not.... take it apart agian, and make sure the "dingleberry" is foward. By the way its called a hammer strut and it has to sit in the mainspring housing.
 
Now you know why I sold mine at fire sale price. I hated that freaking pistol. The BuckMark I swapped it for is only slightly better. Too much plastic. Next .22 is a Hamerli or a S&W 42
 
Mr.Bill said:
This is one of those things thats easer to show you, than tell you. Check to see if you bolt locks back when its got an empty mag in it. Then with the bolt foward, check to see if your safety works. If you said yes to both, then you did it right, if not.... take it apart agian, and make sure the "dingleberry" is foward. By the way its called a hammer strut and it has to sit in the mainspring housing.
Click to expand...

Yes, the cheese is the hammer and the dingleberry is the hammer strut. It has to hang freely with gravity at just the right angle so it fits in the slot of the mainspring housing, which I have dubbed the "gnarled schlong."

Yes, the manual and mag safeties work, and the bolt locks back with an empty mag and release when the bolt lock button is pushed down.

The only casualty was a little bluing on the post that goes through the bolt housing. I can touch that up later on.

If I have to do this again, I might just have a gun smith clean and reassemble it. It would be worth it at any price.
 
I got a Ruger Mark II Gov. Target Model. Every time I take it apart I have to refer to the book to see how to hold it when I re-assemble. It's usually the 'stand-on-your-head, spin, listen for the click, wait for the blood vessels to burst, and have someone flick your nuts portion of the proceedure I mess up.

Otherwise, I love that gun.
 
Forget about following the instructions in the manual. That method sucks.

This works every time:

1. Reinstall bolt into receiver while receiver is off frame.

2. Pull trigger, and manually pull hammer up to it's "Fired" position, with it's front face vertical and perpendicular to the top of the grip frame. (Sear pressure on front of hammer should keep it in place pretty securely, once you release the trigger.)

Now that you have the hammer in the "fired" position, DO NOT TOUCH THE TRIGGER until the pistol is reassembled. It's key that the hammer must stay in this "fired" position for the following steps. If you end up touching the trigger, the sear pressure against the hammer will be lost, and the hammer may move to the "cocked" position.

3. Hold grip frame with magazine opening facing down. Carefully lower barrel/receiver assy (with bolt installed) over hammer and onto grip frame. The slot in the bottom of the bolt should be guided down over the hammer. Push rearward to lock barrel/receiver assy onto lug in front of grip frame in the normal manner. DO NOT allow hammer to be bumped back to "cocked" position while doing this. If it does, go back to step 2.

4. Place pistol on it's side, with mag opening nearest yourself, and barrel pointing right or left, parallel to the width of your torso. Install the boltstop pin (attached to mainspring housing) all the way up into receiver while keeping pistol oriented this way.

5. With bolt stop pin fully inserted, but mainspring housing fully pivoted OUT of the grip frame, flip the pistol so the grip frame is facing with the magazine opening UP. (Basically you are rotating the pistol about the axis of the barrel, moving the mag opening from towards your chest, to straight up.) The pistol should now be upside down, facing sideways in front of you.

6. While holding the pistol upside down and sideways across you, tip the muzzle slightly UPWARD (no more than 30 degrees should do it). Holding in this position, close the mainspring housing.

Check for proper operation by pulling the bolt back. If it goes all the way back you did it right. If not, take it apart and do it again.

The whole objective of orienting the pistol in the ways I do in the steps above is to keep the hammer uncocked at all times. Doing that keeps the hammer strut free to flop over to join the mainspring housing when you close it.

Most persons get bamboozled when the hammer strut gets stuck behind the pin in the frame, and won't flop out to join the mainspring housing. The only way the strut will get stuck like that is if the hammer falls back towards the cocked position while doing the reassembly.
 
**DRB** said:
even with this problem, would you still buy/recommend again? ( I'm shopping... )
Click to expand...

The gun shoots wonderfully. I think it is over-engineered. I would not buy again. I'd find another gun that shoots wonderfully and is easier to maintain.

If you like tinkering, have a rubber mallet and a small flat head screw driver then consider it. You need good light. You need aircraft landing lights to see what is going on in there. Otherwise, look further
 
You want to get a better 22? Buy a Mark II : )
The Mark III has too many little parts with the new changes. You cant kill a Mark II!
 

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