one-eyed Jack
Manufacturer
Audio drops out on receive after various minutes listening. I "reset" by turning it off, then on, and the audio comes right back. All else works OK. Jack. W1FKG.
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Stupid question Jack but I have to ask....where is the squelch set?Audio drops out on receive after various minutes listening. I "reset" by turning it off, then on, and the audio comes right back. All else works OK. Jack. W1FKG.
I checked that first. The problem is that it is so damn intermittent. All can be fine for hours, drop out and reset no problem. Or maybe 10 minutes and reset OK. Just been OK for an hour now (I check it by finding a QSO on any repeater or simplex, not by kerchunking repeaters). LOL. Jack. W1FKG.Stupid question Jack but I have to ask....where is the squelch set?
I wonder if there is something like a cold/intermittent solder joint in the squelch or audio amp circuit. I used to keep a can of freeze spray on my tech bench and hit suspect areas with it. It's amazing how many amps and radios I was able to locate the issues and fix with that can of spray.I checked that first. The problem is that it is so damn intermittent. All can be fine for hours, drop out and reset no problem. Or maybe 10 minutes and reset OK. Just been OK for an hour now (I check it by finding a QSO on any repeater or simplex, not by kerchunking repeaters. LOL. Jack.
Sounds promising.... I checked the interwebs and found this: Fixing Intermitent Audio with the Icom ICV-8000
I'm guessing that it gets pretty hot and heat/cold cycles will weaken solder joints over time, especially when lead free solder is used. Reflow the solder joints on that amp and it may just fix it.That's IC9 - an LA4425A used as the AF power amp.
(Which DigiKey says is no longer manufactured;
so while it's probably beefier than some cat's whisker
diode, still shouldn't be roasted with a soldering gun).
And because it's Bigger Than The Average Part,
maybe it's easier for it to have cold solder joints.
When it cuts out, the display still shows "busy" and the signal strength still shows in the S meter with no change. You are probably right about a poor solder joint. I've done a zillion solder joints, Heathkit TVs, audio tuners and amps, etc. Now I need a break. Know of anyone who could do a house call? For compensation, of course. I'm in Acton, Mass. Jack.I wonder if there is something like a cold/intermittent solder joint in the squelch or audio amp circuit. I used to keep a can of freeze spray on my tech bench and hit suspect areas with it. It's amazing how many amps and radios I was able to locate the issues and fix with that can of spray.
When it cuts out, do you still see a received signal on the S meter?
On a hunch, I checked the interwebs and found this: Fixing Intermitent Audio with the Icom ICV-8000
It might help? If I still lived in NH, I'd check it out for you.
Not personally Jack...like I said, if I was still NH, I'd come down in a NY minute. Maybe someone reading this could do it or would know someone that could.When it cuts out, the display still shows "busy" and the signal strength still shows in the S meter with no change. You are probably right about a poor solder joint. I've done a zillion solder joints, Heathkit TVs, audio tuners and amps, etc. Now I need a break. Know of anyone who could do a house call? For compensation, of course. I'm in Acton, Mass. Jack.
Thanks. My problem is that my back is so bad that I'm still managing the Mill from home. The radio is in my office. The kitchen. All my tools and parts are in the basement. I only do the stairs when I really need to, knowing that my next trip down could be the last if I'm not careful. Coming up the stairs is hell. So, if someone could help me with this I would be glad to compensate them for their time weather the problem gets cured or not. Also, all I have is a 125 and a 250 watt soldering guns. Too big. I remember when the most simple job required 14 trips up and down to get it done. LOL. Jack.Not personally Jack...like I said, if I was still NH, I'd come down in a NY minute. Maybe someone reading this could do it or would know someone that could.
Diagnosis? Incompletely plugged mic?Update. Dummy here found and fixed the problem. Jack.
Never thought to look at the mic which has squelch up and down buttons. Probably bypasses the pot and circuitry. Will know in time. Jack.Diagnosis? Incompletely plugged mic?
If that didn't do the trick,Never thought to look at the mic which has squelch up and down buttons. Probably bypasses the pot and circuitry. Will know in time. Jack.
Ah yes, though I have never seen a mic with a squelch knob on it. That radio must be a piece of commercial gear which having a knob there doesn't surprise me.Never thought to look at the mic which has squelch up and down buttons. Probably bypasses the pot and circuitry. Will know in time. Jack.
The Icom is the IC-V8000 2M about 20 yrs old. The mic is the HM133V. The up-down squelch buttons are on the bottom right hand corner of mic. Jack.Ah yes, though I have never seen a mic with a squelch knob on it. That radio must be a piece of commercial gear which having a knob there doesn't surprise me.
That's good news Jack...glad you found it!
Unless you're a real operating operator on the Fancy Mic -The Icom is the IC-V8000 2M about 20 yrs old. The mic is the HM133V. The up-down squelch buttons are on the bottom right hand corner of mic. Jack.
or if you really need to control the rig with the mic because
you've moved the rig to an inconvenient shelf(*)
(*) Dear God don't drag the rig off of the shelf
onto the laptop keyboard (or Megan).
I've seen Jack's operating position.