I recently had a bad experience with my pistols stored at a remote location. This is totally my fault for not checking them for a while. However I am looking for suggestions on long term storage solutions. Any advice will be appreciated.
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Long term pistol storage
- Thread starter 45 acp
- Start date
VCI and rust inhibitors and preventative
I have been using cortec for long term storage. Its almost like a wax. I also use VCI paper and bull frog VCI emitters.
Then you should look into moisture control in the area.
at minimum something like this
Gun Storage Bags - Zerust Consumer Products
I have been using cortec for long term storage. Its almost like a wax. I also use VCI paper and bull frog VCI emitters.
Then you should look into moisture control in the area.
at minimum something like this
Gun Storage Bags - Zerust Consumer Products
Zerust capsules work awesome - we used them inside naval propulsion equipment all the time, back in the day... turbines, generators, motors, electronic cabinets in places Vapor Capsules for Ammo and Weapons - Zerust Products
smokey-seven
NES Member
RIG. It's old school and it works. (Brownells)
I was reading some old threads on the benefits of steel fame vs benefits of polymer and long term storage of the materials was brought up, which made me think of this.
If another Assault Weapons Ban like in 1994, or even an all out ban on new production were to happen and the only things that were legal are firearms that have been previously manufactured, how could we ensure our next generations could remain sufficiently armed without inconveniencing ourselves by giving them one of our firearms?
How would you store firearms for long term?
Someone recommended putting said firearms in a barrel, filling it with motor oil and sealing them, but I don't know if that would work well or not.
What kind of firearms would you store for long term?
I'm thinking of revolvers, 1911's with all steel magazines, AK's, SKS's, Mosin Nagants, Mausers, lever actions, shotguns with wood stocks, those types of things that are made of metal and wood.
What accessories and supplies should be stored separately for whenever the guns are needed?
Cleaning kits, gunsmithing tools, spam cans or similar packages of ammo, grease, oils, rags, and magazines. Those sorts of things are what I was thinking of here, maybe.
I'm not talking about burying your guns, just basically doing what the Russians did with the Mosin Nagant rifles, covering them in cosmoline for storage long enough to forget about them until someone needs them.
Thank you in advance for any response, I appreciate any kind of input.
If another Assault Weapons Ban like in 1994, or even an all out ban on new production were to happen and the only things that were legal are firearms that have been previously manufactured, how could we ensure our next generations could remain sufficiently armed without inconveniencing ourselves by giving them one of our firearms?
How would you store firearms for long term?
Someone recommended putting said firearms in a barrel, filling it with motor oil and sealing them, but I don't know if that would work well or not.
What kind of firearms would you store for long term?
I'm thinking of revolvers, 1911's with all steel magazines, AK's, SKS's, Mosin Nagants, Mausers, lever actions, shotguns with wood stocks, those types of things that are made of metal and wood.
What accessories and supplies should be stored separately for whenever the guns are needed?
Cleaning kits, gunsmithing tools, spam cans or similar packages of ammo, grease, oils, rags, and magazines. Those sorts of things are what I was thinking of here, maybe.
I'm not talking about burying your guns, just basically doing what the Russians did with the Mosin Nagant rifles, covering them in cosmoline for storage long enough to forget about them until someone needs them.
Thank you in advance for any response, I appreciate any kind of input.
Some tips.
Don't store the guns in Pelican or other soft open cell foam lined cases. The foam traps moisture against the pistol and causes rust. Same for fabric shooting bags, etc. If you want to store them in hard cases, use closed cell foam (has consistency of plasticized styrofoam instead of pick and pluck shit).
Is there power at this place? If not, use a desiccant pack. Desiccant packs are the little bags of pellets that come in man ugh items you buy that say don't eat - they absorb moisture. You can dry them out by heating them up in the oven. Make sure the packs are below the handguns and not touching them, you dont want any moisture they trap to touch the guns. You'd buy two sets and then when you checked on the remote site you'd swap out the old set for a new set. Probably not the best choice if you are up there infrequently. Works more effectively in a closed environment where new moist air isn't constantly being cycled in (a drafty cabin, for example). If there is power you could get something like Use a powered dehumidifier pack - I have one that looks like this and it has worked OK for me in my safe. It is filled with desiccant but also has a heat element to dry them out at the same time. Rechargeable or you can leave it plugged in. Some purchasers have issues with the plastic discoloring from heat, so maybe look at alternatives like the old school Goldenrod or whatever. Again, need power.
Other option as mentioned was the VCI stuff - I have a few of the Kleenbore bags (sorry, could not find these on Amazon) for just in case use.
Then there's the Russian option, coat 'em in cosmoline!
Don't store the guns in Pelican or other soft open cell foam lined cases. The foam traps moisture against the pistol and causes rust. Same for fabric shooting bags, etc. If you want to store them in hard cases, use closed cell foam (has consistency of plasticized styrofoam instead of pick and pluck shit).
Is there power at this place? If not, use a desiccant pack. Desiccant packs are the little bags of pellets that come in man ugh items you buy that say don't eat - they absorb moisture. You can dry them out by heating them up in the oven. Make sure the packs are below the handguns and not touching them, you dont want any moisture they trap to touch the guns. You'd buy two sets and then when you checked on the remote site you'd swap out the old set for a new set. Probably not the best choice if you are up there infrequently. Works more effectively in a closed environment where new moist air isn't constantly being cycled in (a drafty cabin, for example). If there is power you could get something like Use a powered dehumidifier pack - I have one that looks like this and it has worked OK for me in my safe. It is filled with desiccant but also has a heat element to dry them out at the same time. Rechargeable or you can leave it plugged in. Some purchasers have issues with the plastic discoloring from heat, so maybe look at alternatives like the old school Goldenrod or whatever. Again, need power.
Other option as mentioned was the VCI stuff - I have a few of the Kleenbore bags (sorry, could not find these on Amazon) for just in case use.
Then there's the Russian option, coat 'em in cosmoline!
Hot air carries more moisture, not less. This is why compressed air driers use refrigeration to achieve the -40 degree F dew point.
To try to remove moisture by vacuuming out a pipe would be interesting to watch. Ever hear what happens in a hyperbaric chamber? And you could probably not draw enough of a vacuum without a good pump.
Heating an ammo can and sealing it would be fun, especially the part of the process that involves opening the can. Let's see, assuming you draw 8 psi of vacuum, that would take abour 500 lbs of force to open.
Just a greasy gun in an ammo can with a bag of dessicant will keep it good for a decade or more.
To try to remove moisture by vacuuming out a pipe would be interesting to watch. Ever hear what happens in a hyperbaric chamber? And you could probably not draw enough of a vacuum without a good pump.
Heating an ammo can and sealing it would be fun, especially the part of the process that involves opening the can. Let's see, assuming you draw 8 psi of vacuum, that would take abour 500 lbs of force to open.
Just a greasy gun in an ammo can with a bag of dessicant will keep it good for a decade or more.
You open the ammo can by stabbing a hole in the side of it first......no problem.
I have 15 years of first hand experience with my method posted above. Zep Ironclad and a vacuum sealed food saver bag.
Silicone impregnated socks like sack-ups etc, help a lot. I used to have a small safe in my basement where it would get damp, and it was like a work box after I cleaned guns. Once I left a 1911 in there and it got rust speckles overnight. Whenever I used socks I could leave them in there as long as I wanted, no problems....
-Mike
Where can I get a can of Zep Ironclad from without ordering a case? Also how easy is it to clean up, looks like you spray it on and coat a surface?
Mtn_Guy
NES Member
I always save those little desiccant packets of silica gel every time I receive something in the mail. I’ve had good luck with over oiling the firearm and then storing in a silicone impregnated gun sock. I then put that into a heavy freezer ziplock bag with 2-3 desiccant packets, and then put that into a gasketed ammo can with other storage items prepared similarly, and then a couple more desiccant packs loose in the ammo can. That has seemed to work so far for me, but I do check on them periodically and re-oil as needed. Whenever I check on the firearm I shake those little packets to make sure they are still granular. If they ever seem empty (which has never happened) I’d re-evaluate my system since obviously moisture at that point may be a concern. I longterm store ammo in a similar manner, but I try to rotate through my supply so I’m always shooting the oldest stuff first.
I don’t own a foodsaver vacuum sealer (*yet*) but that looks like a pretty good way to go from other posts on this thread. Now I know what I’m buying the fiancée for Christmas, LOL... bettter then a bowling ball that says “Homer”
I don’t own a foodsaver vacuum sealer (*yet*) but that looks like a pretty good way to go from other posts on this thread. Now I know what I’m buying the fiancée for Christmas, LOL... bettter then a bowling ball that says “Homer”
Mtn_Guy
NES Member
Also, for what it’s worth, I’ve consider an S&W SD9VE a pretty good long-term storage firearm to pack away for a SHTF situation. I know, I know... it’s not high-end (kinda the point) but it’s polymer and stainless with stainless magazines chambered in a common caliber, so already it seems pretty good for corrosive environments. Not to mention that the take down is just like a Glock (familiar) and they are pretty darn inexpensive to purchase. I’ve invested in the extra expense of upgrading mine with the Apex kit to improve the trigger, but I’ve saved all OEM parts if ever there was a need to make a repair. I consider it my backups backup.
Any place that sells Zep products should carry it. If I recall, I bought mine from an auto parts store.
You could also try welding supply shops, its a weldable metal preservative that sprays on, coats the metal and is easily removed with mineral spirits. Its a clear, paraffin type coating thats not a mess like cosmoline or other types.
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In addition to VCI rust inhibitor, consider removing the grips before storage (but keeping them with the gun!!!). I've seen blued guns that look 90%+ but are totally corroded under the grips since the original owner never went beyond field stripping.
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I bought the siliconized gun sock from the lgs plus a good coating of Rigs. Plus a promise to myself to be more diligent with checking them. (We'll see how that works out). What had actually happened was the desiccant container over flowed and spilled the condensate on to the top shelf of the safe so one side looked ok but underneath was badly rusted.
How many times / how long can you use the VCI bags like ZeRust before they stop working?
Are they a practical "regular storage" solution, or are they only really good for long term storage where the bags don't get opened much?
Are they a practical "regular storage" solution, or are they only really good for long term storage where the bags don't get opened much?
If not: Practical Sailor just tested a bunch of rust preventative bags.
A ZipLock Freezer bag with some desiccant packs worked as well or better than any of them.
