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Longevity of big bore revolvers, .480 Ruger, .454Casull, .460S&W, .500 S&W, etc.

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I'm considering picking up a Ruger Super Redhawk in .480 Ruger as a pin shoot revolver, range toy and maybe some day for hunting. On paper it looks like an ideal pin shoot round, more pop than a .44 magnum, lighter recoil and lower pressure than a .454 casull, ability to use 410grain bullets, heavy 53oz frame to get back on target. I don't know how well they hold up in the long run though. If I use a .480 Ruger for pin shoot competitions, I could easily put 400-500 rounds through it a year. If I have to rebuild/replace it every few years I might be better just sticking with .44 magnum. EddieCoyle had some comments is some previous posts that the dirty little secret about the .500S&W is that the barrels and cylinders have to be replaced every 2000 rounds but most .500S&W owners will never get to 2000 rounds and some only make it to 5 before selling it. I imaging the .460S&W has the same issues in not greater. Its commonly noted that the .357 maximum died off because of flame cutting issues after a few thousand rounds. How have other bore revolvers faired in the long term?

Also of consideration how well does the brass hold up? Since factory rounds are about $1.50 each I would plan on reloading. It would be nice to get more than 3-4 uses out of the brass.
 
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Are you trying to knock the pins off the table or nuke them from existence?

4-500 rounds a year isn't many, so I wouldn't be overly worried about the .480

If your mainly looking at pins, I'd still prefer .45, 40 or .357
 
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I don't want to nuke them but I wouldn't mind if they were embedded into the berm. [laugh] At the beginning of a match a well place 9mm round can do the job. Toward the end of a match (where the revolver class typically shoots) the pins are full of lead and have splinters and jacketed rounds protruding in every direction, they then become a challenge for .45ACP and even .44 magnum. The revolver class is almost always won by a .44 magnum in every match I've been to, usually a S&W 629. The occasional exception has been a S&W 625 in .45 ACP. The .357 magnum can be competitive but doesn't seem to win even with 158 grain bullets.

To your point, there certainly is a point of diminishing returns by going with a bigger caliber. I've seen a .500 S&W used a few times, mostly as a novelty, with limited success. If they hit the pin, its well off the table with bits of it flying all over but they typically run out of time before they can even aim at pins 4 and 5. Its all good fun.

Are you trying to knock the pins off the table or nuke them from existence?

4-500 rounds a year isn't many, so I wouldn't be overly worried about the .480

If your mainly looking at pins, I'd still prefer .45, 40 or .357
 
To the OP.

I wouldn't worry about it. Both Ruger and S&W will fix the gun if you shoot it out.

My .460 S&W started having timing issues at about 500 rounds. I sent it back to S&W at their expense and they installed a new cylinder.

I don't know personally, but If I was a betting man, I'd bet that the Rugers hold up better than the S&W guns.

Don
 
I have 6 X-Frame revolvers in 500 and 460 Magnum.

The lifespan on these guns is about 500 rounds, but as Don said, S&W will fix them for free. I have one 8" .500 Mag that's on its 4th barrel, 3rd firing pin bushing, and 2nd cylinder (and it needs to go back in).
 
Comeon Eddie, you aren't supposed to actually SHOOT these things. Thats why they make the ammo cost $3/round.

Of course I can reload the .460 using .45 ACP bullets for about 25 cents a round.
 
I have 6 X-Frame revolvers in 500 and 460 Magnum.

The lifespan on these guns is about 500 rounds, but as Don said, S&W will fix them for free. I have one 8" .500 Mag that's on its 4th barrel, 3rd firing pin bushing, and 2nd cylinder (and it needs to go back in).

Wow, I had no idea...
 
What is the indication that the barrel and/or cylinder is done? Looking for education on this.....

I have 6 X-Frame revolvers in 500 and 460 Magnum.

The lifespan on these guns is about 500 rounds, but as Don said, S&W will fix them for free. I have one 8" .500 Mag that's on its 4th barrel, 3rd firing pin bushing, and 2nd cylinder (and it needs to go back in).
 
I fire my S&W 500 Mag pretty often. It is on the truck heading back to Springfield today. it works great double action, however when you try and thumb cock it, the hammer stops about a quarter of the way back unless you touch the trigger then you can fully cock it.
 
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.480 ruger for pin shoots is severe overkill. It'll just slow you down and waste your money, frankly. You're better off with a .44 Magnum for the tough pins. There really isn't anything it can't do in terms of
killing pins.

-Mike
 
Are you trying to knock the pins off the table or nuke them from existence?

At Winchendon it was always about blowing the pins up, always. [rofl] Anyone who used to shoot that circuit knows what I'm talkin about... those pins needed to DIE cause they were always like 30 pound porcupines. [laugh]


-Mike
 
EC is this with standard rounds for these guns or with your reloads?

I have 6 X-Frame revolvers in 500 and 460 Magnum.

The lifespan on these guns is about 500 rounds, but as Don said, S&W will fix them for free. I have one 8" .500 Mag that's on its 4th barrel, 3rd firing pin bushing, and 2nd cylinder (and it needs to go back in).
 
Has anyone heard of this happening to a super RedHawk or Blackhawk?
No idea, but it's not the gun - it's the caliber. Until they start making Blackhawks and Redhawks in .500 Magnum, we'd be comparing apples to crabapples. The guns don't shoot loose, they burn up. You need to be firing 50-ish grains of H110 per round to really see the effect.

What is the indication that the barrel and/or cylinder is done? Looking for education on this.....
The forcing cone looks like a hole saw, and the gun starts spitting lead and bits of jacket material sideways through the cylinder gap. I was shooting with DukeInMaine (now DukeInFlorida) one day, and a piece of jacket from a .500 I was shooting embedded in his forearm. He was standing about 10 feet to my left.

EC is this with standard rounds for these guns or with your reloads?

I don't think I've fired more than a handful of factory rounds through any of my X-frames, but contrary to popular belief, my reloads aren't much hotter than most factory loads, and not as hot as some.
 
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What is the indication that the barrel and/or cylinder is done? Looking for education on this.....

For me it was a timing issue. The hammer would drop before the cylinder lock would click into position.
Also, when the gun was held with the trigger to the rear, there was significant play in the cylinder.

Don
 
I have 6 X-Frame revolvers in 500 and 460 Magnum.

The lifespan on these guns is about 500 rounds, but as Don said, S&W will fix them for free. I have one 8" .500 Mag that's on its 4th barrel, 3rd firing pin bushing, and 2nd cylinder (and it needs to go back in).

Wow, I had no idea they last about 500 rounds before needing a new barrel, firing pin bushing, or cylinder. Of course it depends on what kind of loads you're shooting but I guess I'm not too surprised knowing the energy and pressure with the 500 S&W round.
 
I don't think I've fired more than a handful of factory rounds through any of my X-frames, but contrary to popular belief, my reloads aren't much hotter than most factory loads, and not as hot as some.

I was going to shoot one of your .500 way back at the fraggin frosty shoot when the guy in front of me (shooting your gun) sent the barrel and front sight into the cross bar of the tent we were shooting under due to the recoil..... The large pile of snow that came of the tent was rather comical.

I passed in shooting it after I saw that....
 
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