M&P 15 Sport muzzle brake

ColdDayInHell

ColdDayInHell

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I have some questions concerning muzzle brakes on my M&P15 sport. As most of you know, the M&P sport has nowhatsoever, just the naked barrel.

First question: who can thread the barrel so that I can get a muzzle brake.

Second : do gunsmiths usually sell you the brake or should I buy one online?

Third: which one to get? I really don't mind the noise of brakes but I really don't want stuff being blown off the table next to me. ( I guess I could use a loud one like Miculek)

Fourth: finally, does it have to be pinned if it has a fixed stock and no bayonet lug?
I know i am[horse] when it comes to these questions but I have no idea about threaded barrels.



Thanks for any info regarding these questions. I am fairly new into AR's and lack some knowledge about them.
 
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1. i had mine done at remsport, threaded my barrel and then he pinned and welded it.

2. i brought my own that i purchased online but i believe john said he had the same muzzle brake that i purchased online that i could have gotten from him for around the same price.

3. if you want to spend the money battle comps i've heard are great not too sure how much blowback it has though, i have a yankee hill machining brake and it does blow things off the table and is loud.

4. it has to be pinned and welded even with a fixed stock and bayou-lug removed.
 
Along the same lines, has anyone done this themselves? I have full access to machine shop, what thread size is the brake? Does the barrel have to be turned down before threading. I know most of will will try to talk me out of doing it myself but it looks like a very simple process and with the proper tools should only take a couple hours including pinning and tacking.
 
TZCHRIS said:
Along the same lines, has anyone done this themselves? I have full access to machine shop, what thread size is the brake? Does the barrel have to be turned down before threading. I know most of will will try to talk me out of doing it myself but it looks like a very simple process and with the proper tools should only take a couple hours including pinning and tacking.
Click to expand...

http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_7&products_id=103
this is the brake i have, it has it listed that the threads are 1/2"-28. i watched john at remsport do mine, he did turn the barrel down before threading it. If you have the know-how and the machine shop access i don't see why not.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Remsport is pretty far for me to drive. Is there a local gunsmith that can thread my barrel? Maybe Four Seasons, Coin Gallery?
 
I've been quoted $150 to thread, install and pin. Thinking I will spend money on ammo for a bit before I get a brake put on. Shops were Pullman arms and precision armament works.
 
I haven't gotten this done yet guys. I am going to build an AR and may leave this one the way it is. It really isn't worth it to me and I could just throw a brake on my build. Thanks zbomb, it's not a bad price considering how much work it involves.
 
Just curious, why do you want a muzzle brake at all?

I had a 20" HBAR barrel with no muzzle device, and I thought it was quieter to shoot than ones with a brake.

I'm not sure about the 16" non-HBAR barrels, but I didn't think there was enough recoil from shooting 5.56 that a brake would make a noticeable difference.
 
hminsky said:
Just curious, why do you want a muzzle brake at all?

I had a 20" HBAR barrel with no muzzle device, and I thought it was quieter to shoot than ones with a brake.

I'm not sure about the 16" non-HBAR barrels, but I didn't think there was enough recoil from shooting 5.56 that a brake would make a noticeable difference.
Click to expand...

Personally I feel like the barrel does not look right without a brake on the end. Is that silly... Yes.
 
Supermoto said:
It does make a difference
Click to expand...

yeah, the 20" HBAR was quite a lot heavier than the regular profile carbine length barrel, and especially had the weight right at the end of the barrel making for a large moment of interia. I can certainly imagine how the shorter and lighter carbine might flip up more.
 
hminsky said:
Just curious, why do you want a muzzle brake at all?

I had a 20" HBAR barrel with no muzzle device, and I thought it was quieter to shoot than ones with a brake.

I'm not sure about the 16" non-HBAR barrels, but I didn't think there was enough recoil from shooting 5.56 that a brake would make a noticeable difference.
Click to expand...

With a comp thats been tuned and clocked for the gun and shooter, the targets don't even move off the target when you fire.

Its not so much for recoil reduction (since the .223 has very little) as it is for keeping the muzzle in one place.
 
You can ship yuour upper to me if it is too far to drive. I charge $135.00 to turn the barrel down and thread, drill pin and weld a muzzle device.
I will also square and recrown your barrel at the same time no charge. Shipping is around $10.00. We also have an assortment of muzzle brakes in stock.
Call me to discuss if you are interested.
Thanks
John
413 579 1994
 
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Remsport Mfg said:
You can ship yuour upper to me if it is too far to drive. I charge $135.00 to turn the barrel down and thread, drill pin and weld a muzzle device.
I will also square and recrown your barrel at the same time no charge. Shipping is around $10.00. We also have an assortment of muzzle brakes in stock.
Call me to discuss if you are interested.
Thanks
John
413 579 1994
Click to expand...

John,

I'm interested - will be in touch soon.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Battlecomp. Still has braking effects, and not completely obnoxious concussion levels.

-Mike
 
Please take a look at this post in this section.
Started out as a S&W Sport

Just a note about brakes. I personally like the Battle Comp brakes they seem to be one of the muzzle devices that actually works. The one down side is they are expensive; however you get what you pay for.
 
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I have to disagree with you Mike and Remsport. The simple and cheap Miculek brake ($35 at Brownells with a C&R discount) works fantasticly. Its just loud.

It actually does a better job of reducing recoil and muzzle rise compared to the battle comp. But again, its loud. I understand. Its also very easily tunable and also "clockable". In other words you can tweak it to mitigate how the muzzle moves left to right on recoil by clocking it a certain amount off of vertical.

Many brakes have the openings biased slightly to push the firearm to the left to counter the natural right hand swing that recoil imparts on a right handed shooter.

If you're a lefty, that actually works against you.

As a righty, you simply clock it so the top of the brake is at two oclock (viewed with the gun at your shoulder) so it imparts a little bit of leftwards push.

As a lefty you put the brake at 10:00.

Though the Miculek brake doesn't have any specific upward facing ports, it gets its downward push by having the slots more open at the top than at the bottom. Same thing, just simpler to manufacture.

I guess it all comes down to priorities, if you want a decent range plinker, the battlecomp is a good compromise. But its expensive.

If you don't care about noise a Miculek, Lund Titan orJP brake are very effective for its size. But they're loud. The Miculek is inexpensive and the JP or Lund, while 3x what the Miculek costs is still a lot less than the battlecomp.

i'm not drinkin' the coolaid.
 
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dcmdon said:
I have to disagree with you Mike and Remsport. The simple and cheap Miculek brake ($35 at Brownells with a C&R discount) works fantasticly. Its just loud.
Click to expand...

Why punish yourself if you're going to go through all that trouble? That's the way I look at it. If you're going the punishment route, go FR and get an SJC Titan... [rofl]

-Mike
 
The Miculek brake is loud and it blasts everyone next to you. It is very uncomfortable shooting next to an AR with a Miculek brake. I use a lot of A2 style brakes they are a compromise and they do work, however they are a bargain at $35.00, they also keep the mil look of the gun, and they are by far the most popular.
 
I did a postban gun for a customer with a primary weapons comp. It ran well, and was much quieter than the miculek or JP. And again $40 less than the battlecomp. I just can't help but believe there is a cool aid factor in all this love for the battlecomp.

It ridiculously priced and doesn't work that well as a brake/comp. I just don't get it.

I put a shrewd on a customers upper a while back and it worked great. Much quieter than a Miculek. The Shrewd is $35 at Brownells.

Not tacticool, but it worked as well as a battlecomp as far as I could tell.
(And yes, I removed the evil bayonet lug before returning it)

IMG_3747_zps33533ed4.jpg
 
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I like the sound of the Miculek and if it clears people out from my range, then it's a win-win for me. [laugh] I also have read on the AR forum that it controls the muzzle rise very well and is worth every penny, so that will be my pick. I hope to get it on my AR by next month.
 
Remsport, if I want to donate my Miculek to cold.. is it possible and what is the damage to replace my pinned/welded miculek with just a basic flash hider?
 
yes it is possible. $35.0 to drill pin and weld $35.00 for a basic A2 style comp and maybe another $35.00 to get you current brake off your gun.
John
 
Remsport Mfg said:
yes it is possible. $35.0 to drill pin and weld $35.00 for a basic A2 style comp and maybe another $35.00 to get you current brake off your gun.
John
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll discuss with him, I actually found a Levang compensator that looks like it will suit my needs better than a flash hider and I could ship my upper with that for install if it's all the same to you, he and I can figure terms. I'm still evaluating though whether or not a floated chrome bull barrel, which i ultimately want, is worth the money without getting a 2nd AR.
 
Hiltonizer said:
Thanks. I'll discuss with him, I actually found a Levang compensator that looks like it will suit my needs better than a flash hider and I could ship my upper with that for install if it's all the same to you, he and I can figure terms. I'm still evaluating though whether or not a floated chrome bull barrel, which i ultimately want, is worth the money without getting a 2nd AR.
Click to expand...

I hope its not a Levang linear comp. They are less than useless.

A few years ago, USPSA's magazine Front Sight did an article on comps. They found the Levang provided 0% recoil reduction and no decrease in muzzle climb.
It makes perfect sense. Its directing the gasses forward, not out.

I just google searched it, here's a link to the article: http://www.scribd.com/doc/22829785/AR15-Compensators-pt-2

The guys methodology is pretty clever. It completely removes human variability from his results.
 

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