M&P 45 Review: Subtitle Goes Here

Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
2,788
Likes
627
Feedback: 4 / 0 / 0
Here's a long and rambling set of musings about a gun I acquired recently. Enjoy. Or don't.

A Duel in the Desert
So after spending the last few months constantly rushing from work emergency to family emergency, I finally got out to the range with a co-worker a few weeks ago. Being in a warm free-state, I'd been carrying a 3.5" or 4.25" 1911, with thin grips and 7+1.
DSCN0248.jpg


So, being a competitive type, I pull out a timer (which, let's assume, I keep on me at all times), and challenge this co-worker and his Glock to some shooting. Things go well right up until the buzzer, and I get my ass thoroughly beat.
I'm reloading twice as much, I'm taking longer to do it, my splits are slower, and I'm taking too long to get a good sight picture on transitions. My actual shots are way better, but this doesn't nearly make up for the time lost. Defeat. I'm devastated, and fly home in shame.

Clearly, I decide this cannot stand; something must be done. Because practicing to get better is obviously out of the question [wink], I decided to make a technological fix. I find a weekday I can blow off, and after making the rounds, I find a kind gentleman selling what I want. Add some paperwork and some money, and it's mine.

The Fix Is In

And here it is:
DSCN0591.jpg


DSCN0594.jpg


That's an M&P 45, with a full-sized frame, in (obviously) .45 ACP. I stuck with the .45 ACP round as I'm a fan of big bullets, and out of a 4+" barrel you needn't be picky about ammo the way you need to out of a 3.5". The M&P holds 10+1 of them, both in free-state and MA models.

The Basics
This model of 45 has basically the same dimensions as the full-sized 9/40/357 model. Smith & Wesson says, I believe, that it's actually the same width, and without breaking out the calipers, I'm willing to believe them. The grip is a bit larger in length than the 9mm, and the overall gun length slightly shorter. It should fit 9/40/357 holsters, says the internet, but I don't trust "the internet" and picked up one purpose built (more on that later).

In terms of size, the gun's dimensions very closely resemble those of a CCO-style (Commander Slide, Officer's Frame) 1911.

DSCN0555.jpg


Here's them on top of each other. I might as well mention here that the loaded M&P weighs about the same as the 1911 empty.

DSCN0552.jpg


There's one difference, however. To fit more rounds, the M&P isn't just slightly taller, it's obviously double-stack. For reference, it is slightly thicker in the slide than a Sig P229, but somewhat thinner in the grip.
DSCN0549.jpg

Keep in mind that 1911 is running thin-grips, but yes, that is as big a difference as it looks to be. The double-stack magazines are reasonably large (not HK large, but large) and have large baseplates that aren't as easy as the 9/40/357 to hide or index.

Accessories! AKA You can't just buy the gun...

First, I need a holster. Second, I need a magazine pouch, as reloading from my pocket was a key point in my disgracing defeat. I went to Comp-Tac, as they make basically all my holsters and pouches, and I like them.

DSCN0573.jpg


I won't turn this into a Comp-Tac Review, but in summary, the CTAC is excellent, but the IWB magazine pouch is not. The sweat shield is too large, it doesn't hold shape, it moves around a lot. It's actually a good replacement for a pocket and a good option if you can't hide a real pouch, and I do intend to use it for that reason. But don't buy one if you enjoy getting a good grip on the magazine before drawing.

Back to the gun. Third thing to do was what everyone does with M&Ps: replace the fire control parts. Using a hammer, punch, magnet (damn you sear plunger!) and swiss-army knife, I installed most of Apex's Duty AEK kit, which a friend was hording and kindly supplied (saving me a trip down to Ludlow to find one; the "Internet" is all out). I have not yet replaced the striker-block. As such, I have a 5-6 pound trigger with no overtravel, that's somewhat gritty and has a moderate reset. It's acceptable for carry and not miserable like the factory trigger.

I ordered new sights, too (Black on Black is the only way!), but Brownells made an oops, and suffice it to say, I don't have new sights. I blacked out the horrible rear dots with a permanent sharpie, and am running factory/1-dot sights. They're acceptable.

As you can see, I'm not currently running a light on this gun, but since I worship at the alter of weapon-mounted lights, it's a possible future enhancement.

Lastly, the factory texture of the grip doesn't work for me. I've added some esoteric 3M grip tape, obtainable only by begging USPSA shooters for their extras (or by paying 3M like $30 per roll). I've previously stippled an M&P backstrap, and may eventually take an iron to this gun, too.

The Shooting AKA "Bang!"
After tossing on some lube, I've run 300 cheap walmart rounds through this gun, doing standard drills and getting a feel for it's recoil impulse. Recoil is, surprisingly, quite manageable. While it's been a while since I've run a 5" 1911 (things keep falling off of mine) recoil on the 4" M&P seems about the same to me. There's less flip and perceived recoil than the 4.25" 1911 with thin grips (which, keep in mind, make the 1911 less pleasant to shoot). Muzzle blast and flash is obviously about the same. Obviously, it's miles less blast, rise, and recoil than the 3.5".
DSCN0561.jpg

On a timer, my average splits and transitions are slower than my 9mm M&P, but considerably faster than my 3.5". Likewise with reload times (competition pouch < IWB pouch < single-stack without magwell < pocket). Draw times are about the same for all three, which isn't surprising. Video may follow, eventually.

Accuracy was fine. I nailed a few plates at 25 yards, got bored and went back to shooting fast. If you want a picture of a grouping, get ready for disappointment.

The Running AKA You must be doing something wrong

I also ran a box of Speer 230gr Gold Dot, which runs in everything, without incident. Recoil and blast was basically no different.

I also ran a box of ridiculous Hornady 230gr +P(+++?) which runs in no other gun I have. Recoil was somewhat increased, but still basically the same as the same load out of a 5" 1911. While all of my 1911s choke on this round, no malfunctions.

While 300-400 rounds isn't a reliability test, so far, no malfunctions. No silly "break-in" or "testing period". I'll be doing the "2000 Round Challenge" with this gun, which means no cleaning, maintenance or further lubrication for the first 2000 rounds. This might take a little while as I'm not made of money or .45ACP rounds. I have no doubts the pistol is up to it.

The Concluding Paragraph, and a nice list
In conclusion, the M&P 45 is a gun. You press the trigger to the rear, and if it's loaded and cocked, it will convert chemical energy into kinetic energy, heat, light, and sound. It does this pretty well.

While it's thick like most double-stack pistols, it's lighter than its steel brethren, and you get magazines that hold 10+1.

It seem reliable, and shoots nicely. When I can wear a jacket or loose shirt to hide it and laws allow, I'll be carrying this instead of the 1911. I'll probably still carry the 1911 when thickness is an issue. The M&P shoots, transitions, and reloads faster, though. It's also considerably cheaper, and should TSA misplace it or I abuse it, I'll not get upset the way one might with a nice custom 1911.

In summary:

Pros:
  • JMB's Own Caliber, .45ACP
  • Reasonable mis-sized dimensions
  • Aftermarket fire-control parts available.
  • Aftermarket sights available.
  • Reliable
  • Reasonably shoot-able.
  • 10+1 isn't 7+1

Cons:
  • JMB's Own Caliber, .45ACP, which for some is not desirable.
  • Thick compared to single-stack offerings.
  • Aftermarket fire-control parts are basically required.
  • Aftermarket sights are highly recommended.
  • Only some models available from FFLs in MA. Otherwise, have fun in the used market.
  • 10+1 isn't 15+1
 
Nice review. Does that grip tape shred up your hands at all? I am thinking of cutting out some panels of that stuff to put on my USP tactical because I can't hang onto the damned thing for the life of me.

-Mike
 
Nice write up and I'm digging the tape. [smile]

Use a razor blade to cut triangles out on the edges of the grip. This will allow the tape to sit flush and you won't get the pockets you have today. A small dab of crazy glue will keep those corners down so they don't lift on you. If you need more let me know. You going to give it a run in CDP this year?
 
Nice review. Does that grip tape shred up your hands at all? I am thinking of cutting out some panels of that stuff to put on my USP tactical because I can't hang onto the damned thing for the life of me.

-Mike

It's actually rubberized medium-duty tread tape, and seems to be made of the same material as the M&P backstrap. It doesn't shred the hands at all and isn't really the sandpaper/skateboard type.

It's hard to find; I bummed a roll off of a very generous forum member. I saved the part number somewhere....

EDIT: And here's the dude himself:
Use a razor blade to cut triangles out on the edges of the grip. This will allow the tape to sit flush and you won't get the pockets you have today. A small dab of crazy glue will keep those corners down so they don't lift on you. If you need more let me know. You going to give it a run in CDP this year?

Thanks for the tips! I'm running more of the tape on the Pro and will probably put more attention to detail there. Here, it's mostly just a stop-gap measure. I actually did use up all of the tape already, but was just going to order a whole roll from Amazon. If I run into you at a match again, I wouldn't say no![smile]
Probably won't shoot CDP more than once or twice, as keeping 9mm loaded is expensive enough, and switching divisions constantly is a good way to avoid Master Class forever.
 
Last edited:
Nice review. Does that grip tape shred up your hands at all? I am thinking of cutting out some panels of that stuff to put on my USP tactical because I can't hang onto the damned thing for the life of me.

-Mike

Mike - The 3M tape is actually rubber. It won't shred your hands at all, under any conditions.
 
As a hilarious postscript to this review, I totally destroyed the sight dovetail when I slipped replacing a stubborn rear sight with a steel punch.

The punch then deflected off my very nice coffee table (which my wife is going to kill me over), and buried its point 1" or so into my leg, right by my femoral artery.

This is not, by any means, the first sight I've replaced.... but I'm thinking I might pay someone to do it next time. I think the dovetail can be salvaged by cutting off the sight, which is now peened into the slide. At least I hope so, because these slides are not easy to come by in MA.

And they say hammers aren't dangerous.
 
Last edited:
Ouch, sorry to hear about that. How were you holding the slide? When I did it, I put the slide in a bench mounted vice, using some scrap wood to pad the jaws.
 
Ouch, sorry to hear about that. How were you holding the slide? When I did it, I put the slide in a bench mounted vice, using some scrap wood to pad the jaws.

Same. But the vice was one of the removable ones mounted on the table, and the table was right next to my legs...

It's not so much the hilarious close-to-my-junk stabbing that worries me, it's that I now have to cut off a 50$ rear sight. EDIT: Sight cut off with minimal slide damage. Yay! Dremell: is there anything it doesn't do?


I think it's the gun-gods way of telling me to get back to practicing IPDA when I already have totally serviceable self-defense guns.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom