m&p shield trigger issues

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TLDR version:
Trigger creep (trigger doesn't break cleanly) & trigger bar loop catches on the sear.

Long version:
I bought a new Shield from my friend a few months ago after he installed an Apex kit in it (he didn't like the trigger). Well, today was the 2nd time the gun has ever been fired and I noticed a few problems with the trigger. The first issue was that the trigger didn't break free. There is a lot of noticeable creep. Second, the gun didn't fire unless I pulled the trigger all the way back so the trigger was touching the trigger stop. I fixed the second problem by opening the loop on the trigger bar but now the loop catches on the sear. I feel like I'm shooting a 3 stage trigger where the first stage is when the loop first makes contact with the sear, second stage is where the loop catches, and third is where there is some creep before the gun finally fires. Anyone know how I can get rid of the creep and the catching?

I have no gunsmithing knowledge and have never gone further than field stripping my guns. Is this something I can fix easily or should I take it to someone who'll get it done right?
 
I'm definitely thinking about bringing it to him. Think he'll charge me the full $70 even though I already have an Apex kit isntalled?
 
I am not sure but I don't think he uses Apex kits. Think he does the mods himself with the OEM parts so you may want to ask, maybe bring all the factory parts if you bring it in.

It will be your favorite gun to shoot when he's finished.
 
Do you have creep or pre-travel? Apex kits don't get rid of pre-travel unless you get the forward set sear version. I'd contact apex first as their customer service is top notch.
 
Do you have creep or pre-travel? Apex kits don't get rid of pre-travel unless you get the forward set sear version. I'd contact apex first as their customer service is top notch.
I have both but the pre-travel is normal to me. It's the creep that bothers me. I take up all the slack (pre-travel), engage the sear, and just when I think the gun will fire there is a bit more travel/squishiness before the gun finally fires.
 
I bought a new Shield from my friend a few months ago after he installed an Apex kit in it (he didn't like the trigger). Well, today was the 2nd time the gun has ever been fired and I noticed a few problems with the trigger. The first issue was that the trigger didn't break free. There is a lot of noticeable creep. Second, the gun didn't fire unless I pulled the trigger all the way back so the trigger was touching the trigger stop. I fixed the second problem by opening the loop on the trigger bar but now the loop catches on the sear.

Check and make sure the apex kit was installed properly. The previous owner might have munged it.

It probably is installed correctly. I've installed four Apex kits so far, and I had the same problem with the Shield. You need to re-contour the trigger bar loop.

You were right in opening the loop up (that allowed the trigger to break properly). You need to open it a little more, but then pull the end of the loop down. This will reduce a lot of the creep as it shortens the amount of time the trigger bar is in contact with the sear.

If this is unclear, I can try to mock up some photos later with a paper clip as a visual aid.
 
It probably is installed correctly. I've installed four Apex kits so far, and I had the same problem with the Shield. You need to re-contour the trigger bar loop.
You were right in opening the loop up (that allowed the trigger to break properly). You need to open it a little more, but then pull the end of the loop down. This will reduce a lot of the creep as it shortens the amount of time the trigger bar is in contact with the sear.

If this is unclear, I can try to mock up some photos later with a paper clip as a visual aid.


I understand what you mean and that makes a lot of sense. What tools do you suggest using to reshape the loop?
 
I understand what you mean and that makes a lot of sense. What tools do you suggest using to reshape the loop?

I used a pair of non-serrated angled needle nose pliers for the adjustment. To support the loop during bending, you can stick a broad tapered punch in a vise and fit the loop around it (don't want to crush the loop while working), or use another pair of pliers to grip the outside of the loop. When finished, you may need to sand and polish to remove any tool marks.
 
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Changing the loop will affect the rate of pre travel. If done too much it will drag on the sear and create too much friction. I usually do not change the loop, but mill the sear to create a shorter break. I also mill them to prevent them from slipping off. The Shield set up is shorter to begin with due to the compact nature of the frame.
 
Changing the loop will affect the rate of pre travel. If done too much it will drag on the sear and create too much friction. I usually do not change the loop, but mill the sear to create a shorter break. I also mill them to prevent them from slipping off. The Shield set up is shorter to begin with due to the compact nature of the frame.

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Greg Derr again.

Thanks for the info. Opening the loop on mine solved the takeup issue, but left a very long creep before the break. Adjusting the slope of the flat on the end of the trigger loop downward solved that issue, but it took a lot of small adjustments and tests to get it to a comfortable point.
 
I had the same issue with the apex kit in my fiances shield. I just pried up on the loop a tiny bit with a flat head screw driver and its beautiful now. No real noticeable creep, but when my polishing stones come in Im going to mirror finish it up just because.

Mike

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