-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
M1 Carbines
- Thread starter imgone
- Start date
N A T I O N A L P O S T A L M E T E R crossed with a W I N C H E S T E R.......if the letters = DNA, then the resulting child would be....a/an
I-M
-N-ERWOO-
ROC--OLA
INLAN-
IRWIN PE-ERSON (spelled it wrong)![[banghead]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/045.gif "Bang Head [banghead]")
-UALIT- HARD-ARE
STAN-ARD PRO-UCTS
SA-INAW
Need more genetic variation. Yes, I DO have that kind of time on my hands.
t
I-M
-N-ERWOO-
ROC--OLA
INLAN-
IRWIN PE-ERSON (spelled it wrong)
-UALIT- HARD-ARE
STAN-ARD PRO-UCTS
SA-INAW
Need more genetic variation. Yes, I DO have that kind of time on my hands.
t
Last edited:
I dont know alot about carbines, have a few to fill that WWII small arms slot. If and when I get a gun that pelts me with brass I wear a hat and pull the brim down hard and tighten up my cheekweld.
dhuze
NES Member
One of mine throws brass into my forehead and I get little half moon cuts from it. I don't remember which one it was, but the next time I find it. it will get a new extractor. That is typically yhr cause.
Hardwired
NES Member
Try a new ejector first and look to see what slide you have. I installed a new USGI extractor on one of mine and it made it worse!
Best results for me was a new ejector and a few coils cut of a wolf spring.
D
Deleted member 67409
These guns came out of Ethiopia, so my bet is that they sat in surplus during the war and then given to Ethiopia after WW2 and Korea.
n1oty
NES Member
Some photos of my Underwood:
The serial number places it within the last 4000 carbines that Underwood made in their first production run, so November 1942. It has a Rock-ola barrel with no date and a Winchester stock, along with a two-rivet handguard. The right side of the stock has the Winchester cartouche marks. The left side has Springfield Armory cartouche marks from the post-war rebuild. There is a SA marked adjustable sight added during the post-war refit. It has a flat bolt, not a round bolt. I have a bolt tool coming this week. I am very pleased with this carbine.
I am looking for suggestions on cleaning up the stock a bit, if possible. However, I don't want to mess up the cartouche marks. Any thoughts??
The serial number places it within the last 4000 carbines that Underwood made in their first production run, so November 1942. It has a Rock-ola barrel with no date and a Winchester stock, along with a two-rivet handguard. The right side of the stock has the Winchester cartouche marks. The left side has Springfield Armory cartouche marks from the post-war rebuild. There is a SA marked adjustable sight added during the post-war refit. It has a flat bolt, not a round bolt. I have a bolt tool coming this week. I am very pleased with this carbine.
I am looking for suggestions on cleaning up the stock a bit, if possible. However, I don't want to mess up the cartouche marks. Any thoughts??
N1oty,
You can try my process if you like the pics. Hot water and Dawn dish liquid. I used a synthetic dish brush. Paper towel dry. Cut BLO, let sit 30, wipe off, continue until no more is absorbed. Took me 8 coats over 3 days. A little stain to blend the stock if needed.
My range is now open; hope to get it out in the next couple days.
t
You can try my process if you like the pics. Hot water and Dawn dish liquid. I used a synthetic dish brush. Paper towel dry. Cut BLO, let sit 30, wipe off, continue until no more is absorbed. Took me 8 coats over 3 days. A little stain to blend the stock if needed.
My range is now open; hope to get it out in the next couple days.
t
dhuze
NES Member
I just wipe mine down with Hoppes a few times until I like the looks, then if it needs it I'll add some linseed oil.
Real simple. Mix up equal parts turpentine and BLO and use cheesecloth or a facecloth/terrycloth wetted with the mixture to clean the stock. Keep wetting and using a clean spot as the cloth gets dirty and just wipe down the whole stock with it. Go over real dirty areas a couple of times if you like. When you're done just let it sit and try on its own and it should look great.
IMO cleaning the stock and then saturating it with oil is not a good idea. The armory dipped the new stocks once or twice and let them dry, they didn't saturate them. Wood saturated with oil will break down over time.
dhuze
NES Member
You didn't show many photos, but that stock is not excellent nor unissued. If the metal exhibits excellent to unissued I'd just find a new stock. If it doesn't I'd call them immediately and have them make it right.
the stock is rough, the metal looks pretty good with the few pictures you sent. It appears to have all the updated parts and pieces. Over hauled and never reissued , maybe. even at $1300 depending on what it is might still be a ok price.
I like to start with a soft brush , like a leather shoe brush. Then I will mix up a small batch of sudsy dish soapy water. I then just scoop up suds with the brush and gently scrub and wipe with bounty towels. This often gets the crud off. The Linseed oil and cheese cloth works well also.
When I want it CLEAN its purple power or simple green more scrubbing. this is for no value wood
Wood Cleaning Article - Civilian Marksmanship Program
USGI Rifle Stocks and Hand Guards: Walnut and Birch Entry Level Care and Preservation Tips and Considerations for CMP Wood (August 2005 Revision: Sections 6.1 and 6.7 have additions and Sections 6.4a and 6.4b are new.) CMP surplus rifles such as the M1 Garand, M1903 Springfield, and the various...
thecmp.org
And done. Went back together with a minimum fuss. The long time between posts, however, was me figuring out how to get the stuck bit of paper towel out of the firing pin channel. Finally used a brass drill bit on reverse.
Oh, it has a Winchester extractor and a NL-Q (National Lock-Quality Hardware ) firing pin.
Ready for the range tomorrow.
t
Oh, it has a Winchester extractor and a NL-Q (National Lock-Quality Hardware ) firing pin.
Ready for the range tomorrow.
t
Last edited:
