My first reloads! and some questions

DW357

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So after having my Hornady LNL press sit in the box for almost 2 years, I had today off from work so I was determined to get it up and running. I was using a Lee sizing/depriming die since I'm sending back my Hornady sizing die to Hornady as it continues to scratch the brass. But the rest of the dies I was using are Hornady. The seating/crimping die and the powder measure was probably what took me the longest to dial in. I spent basically all day 9am - 3pm playing around with the press and taking my time.

But I loaded up 12 rounds 357 magnum.

Zero brand 158 gr SJHP bullets
~13.2 gr of 2400 powder (varied from 13.1 - 13.3 as I weighed all 12 charges) Pretty decent I think? 14.9 gr is max according to manual
OAL varied from 1.580" - 1.587" due to the different brass I was using. Lyman manual listed max OAL of 1.590"
Winchester small pistol primers

So I ran out to my club's indoor range (no magnum/jacketed rounds allowed but too bad) and went through the 12 rounds with my 6" GP100. WOW! What a freakin fireball! The recoil was fairly mild, definitely less than factory Federal AE 158 JSP and PMC 158 gr JSP ammo which is what I mainly shot. But it was VERY clean and not smoky at all. The brass came out of the cylinder with ease and the brass didn't look much dirtier than it was prior to shooting (not like that really matters but I noticed that).

View attachment 112342 Was shooting fairly quickly at 25 ft, pretty good accuracy I thought.View attachment 112343

Questions/concerns:

1) I'm not sure if my roll crimp is good enough. No bullets jumped the crimp but not sure if that is the only way of knowing. It's tricky due to the mixed brass I have, the length of brass varies from different manufacturers so that's probably why my OAL varied so much (but not enough to be a concern?) I followed Jim's procedure from the massreloading website on how to seat and crimp at the same station and didn't really adjust it any further from what Jim outlines on the website.

2) I had a couple issues with the primers not seating all the way into the brass. I think I wasn't using enough force to jam it in or it could be the brass (can't remember the headstamp - either Remington, Fiocchi, Federal, or PMC). Only happened 2 or 3 times. Safest way to seat or removed the unseating primers?? I can't ram the primer in again as the brass won't fit in the shell holder with the primer protruding out.

3) Another issue was after dropping the powder into the case and lowering the ram/indexing the press, a few bits of powder would fall out from the powder drop die and into the case and onto the shell plate. Didn't seem to do it everytime, probably every 2 or 3 times I would say. Any advice on fixing that?

4) There were a few bits of unburnt powder in the bore but didn't seem more than what I've noticed after firing factory Federal AE or Remington ammo. Here's a patch I ran through the bore after the 12 rounds:View attachment 112345

5) How do most of you guys clean your ammo dispenser/measure/hopper? - whatever its called. I was just thinking switching powders and calibers (9mm and 38 spl are the other 2 calibers I'll be reloading) will be a PITA since I have to swap out the rifle rotor for the pistol rotor. The pistol rotor wasn't able to throw 13 grains of powder for 357 mag so I used the rifle rotor and problem solved.

Do you guys have several powder measures? At least one for rifle and one for pistol? I'm thinking it may be worth buying another one to have set up with the pistol rotor and won't need to disassemble the powder measure/drop every time I want to change calibers.

This is what it looked like after emptying the remaining powder back into the jug - which was somewhat messy with some powder spilling out. Maybe buy a funnel??View attachment 112346View attachment 112347 Does this look like a typical amount of powder remaining/sticking inside the powder measure?? I degreased it with Gunscrubber which seemed to work very well.

Do you guys trim pistol brass? I'm wondering if I really need to even with the varying lengths of brass I have. All 12 rounds seemed to have crimped and lined up well with the cannelure. I forgot to take photos of the last 6 rounds I made.

Oh and did I mention how fun it is to pull bullets?! Especially with my first few rounds that I overcrimped and bulged the case, took forever to pull the bullet on that one. I also noticed that the grooves inside the bullet puller were actually denting the lead hollow point (you can see it in the photos of my reloads) so I stuffed some cleaning patches in the puller to cover up the grooves so the bullets weren't being smashed against them and deforming the lead. Worked great after that.

Sorry for the novel of a post, I just wanted to get these questions answered. Thanks guys!
 
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I have a Hornady powder measure that I use for rifle rounds and a couple of Lee powder measures for pistol rounds. I have all 3 screwed to a length of 2x that is held in a bench vice. I got the Lee's used on NES. They work good enough for me to shoot paper @ 50ft or so. They are not as accurate as the Hornady, in my experience.

I got a fitting for the Hornady that installs to the rotor and lets you dump all the powder when youre done. The lee's let you give a half turn to close off the powder, pull off the top from the base, and then a half turn back and the powder empties into the jug.

RE trimming pistol brass- Ive asked this myself as I was curious and had never heard of anyone doing it and the consensus was a unanimous "not necessary".

eta- I also used graphite spray on the inside surfaces of the powder measures. It helps a great deal with flakes clinging to the inside.
 
I have a Hornady powder measure that I use for rifle rounds and a couple of Lee powder measures for pistol rounds. I have all 3 screwed to a length of 2x that is held in a bench vice. I got the Lee's used on NES. They work good enough for me to shoot paper @ 50ft or so. They are not as accurate as the Hornady, in my experience.

I got a fitting for the Hornady that installs to the rotor and lets you dump all the powder when youre done. The lee's let you give a half turn to close off the powder, pull off the top from the base, and then a half turn back and the powder empties into the jug.

RE trimming pistol brass- Ive asked this myself as I was curious and had never heard of anyone doing it and the consensus was a unanimous "not necessary".

Yeah I was wondering what the easiest/cleanest way of emptying the powder would be. Seems like unscrewing the whole entire powder measure and tipping it into the jug is not the best way as I spilled some powder on my bench. What's this fitting you mentioned?

I didn't think about getting a cheaper Lee powder measure for other calibers.

For now I think I'll hold off on trimming the brass.
 
Also that thin rod that is used in the primer feed system (to ensure reliable primer feeding according to the manual) would get stuck in the spring activated metal primer tray thing that loads the primer from the tube and into the shell plate/holder (can't remember the correct part name). It would only do it when I was down to the last 2 primers in the tube.
 
You really need to use MAGNUM primers in 357mag. Regular primers may not ignite the powder properly/completely. Don't try to reseat the primers, just decap them very gently.

I like to have a couple of powder measures on hand because I do rifle and pistol but no reason you couldn't have another for other pistol calibers.
 
Yeah I was wondering what the easiest/cleanest way of emptying the powder would be. Seems like unscrewing the whole entire powder measure and tipping it into the jug is not the best way as I spilled some powder on my bench. What's this fitting you mentioned?

I didn't think about getting a cheaper Lee powder measure for other calibers.

For now I think I'll hold off on trimming the brass.

They call it a powder measure drain insert-

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/66...der-measure-drain-insert?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Prior to this I would pull off the rubber cap and dump into a funnel. I could get messy. I thought I remember hearing its not a good idea to keep pulling off the clear hopper. I dont remember exactly why or where I read that, so take it for what its worth.

The Lee powder measures go for like $25 or so new. I got 2 used here for a total of $21 iirc. ( got one for $15, and another was free just sent a check to cover shipping. Thanks again whoever you were.[thumbsup])
 
You really need to use MAGNUM primers in 357mag. Regular primers may not ignite the powder properly/completely. Don't try to reseat the primers, just decap them very gently.

I like to have a couple of powder measures on hand because I do rifle and pistol but no reason you couldn't have another for other pistol calibers.

Yeah I don't know. From the research I've done online, seems like regualr primers work fine for 357 magnum with 2400 powder. Some say H110 powder might be better with a magnum primer but all I plan on using for 357 mag is 2400 powder. I'll have Unique, Titegroup, Bullseye, and Power Pistol to play around with for my 9mm and 38 spl loads eventually.
 
They call it a powder measure drain insert-

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/66...der-measure-drain-insert?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Prior to this I would pull off the rubber cap and dump into a funnel. I could get messy. I thought I remember hearing its not a good idea to keep pulling off the clear hopper. I dont remember exactly why or where I read that, so take it for what its worth.

The Lee powder measures go for like $25 or so new. I got 2 used here for a total of $21 iirc. ( got one for $15, and another was free just sent a check to cover shipping. Thanks again whoever you were.[thumbsup])

So how exactly does it work. You just pull out the powder metering insert (that adjusts powder throws) then replace it with this drain insert and all the powder will drain out when you turn the rotor??

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Oh and good call on the graphite spray! Didn't think of that.
 
I think I remember someone saying you could wipe out the inside with a dryer sheet too and it does the same thing
 
So how exactly does it work. You just pull out the powder metering insert (that adjusts powder throws) then replace it with this drain insert and all the powder will drain out when you turn the rotor??

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Oh and good call on the graphite spray! Didn't think of that.

Yeah. I have a single stage, so not sure its the same with a progressive. Rotate rotor half way, pull insert, install drain, lower rotor and it drains out. Really all it is, is a hollow tube machined to snap into the rotor the same as the metering insert.
 
Yeah. I have a single stage, so not sure its the same with a progressive. Rotate rotor half way, pull insert, install drain, lower rotor and it drains out. Really all it is, is a hollow tube machined to snap into the rotor the same as the metering insert.

I may have to grab one of these. I'm thinking I may just spend the $ and get a whole separate powder measure so I can have one with the rifle rotor and one with the pistol rotor. Pricy though and this doesn't come with the dies etc:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/290524/hornady-lock-n-load-powder-measure So I think I would also need to get this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/591344/hornady-case-activated-powder-drop Probably looking at just over $120 shipped for these 2 things, don't know if it's worth it. But if I plan to keep switching between 9mm (pistol rotor) and 357 magnum (rifle rotor) it's going to get old fast changing calibers with one powder measure.

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Where is EddieCoyle tonight, I couldn't wait to hear some feedback from the pro.
 
I may have to grab one of these. I'm thinking I may just spend the $ and get a whole separate powder measure so I can have one with the rifle rotor and one with the pistol rotor. Pricy though and this doesn't come with the dies etc:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/290524/hornady-lock-n-load-powder-measure So I think I would also need to get this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/591344/hornady-case-activated-powder-drop Probably looking at just over $120 shipped for these 2 things, don't know if it's worth it. But if I plan to keep switching between 9mm (pistol rotor) and 357 magnum (rifle rotor) it's going to get old fast changing calibers with one powder measure.

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Where is EddieCoyle tonight, I couldn't wait to hear some feedback from the pro.

Yep, I have the pistol rotor and the rifle rotor and it got old switching them. Not a big deal, but I figure for pistols, the Lee's are accurate enough and the price is right. Im too cheap to spring for another LNL measure, lol.
 
Yeah the Lee's look like a good value. I just want to be able to mount it in my LNL press.
 
What other tools are good for cleaning the powder measure? I would assume you want it pretty clean when switching powders so you're not, for example, mixing a rifle powder with a pistol powder.
 
...I loaded up 12 rounds 357 magnum...

...So I ran out to my club's indoor range (no magnum/jacketed rounds allowed but too bad) and went through the 12 rounds...

I assume that you know that backstops have limitations and by exceeding the rating of your clubs particular backstop in all likely hood damaged it to some degree.
 
What other tools are good for cleaning the powder measure? I would assume you want it pretty clean when switching powders so you're not, for example, mixing a rifle powder with a pistol powder.

I just tap/wipe out all the old granules before putting in the new powder. You don't have to go nuts cleaning it. I use a long pair of forceps and a used dryer sheet to wipe it out.

I swap the pistol and rifle rotors back and forth. It's easy and it takes about a minute. I can't see spending that kind of cash for something completely unnecessary.

Finally, you are right to use the primers that are specified in the reloading manual. Some powders need magnum primers, most don't.
 
I assume that you know that backstops have limitations and by exceeding the rating of your clubs particular backstop in all likely hood damaged it to some degree.

Yeah I know. I just wanted to hurry up and test the 12 rounds and didn't want to open the gate to our outdoor range. I won't be that lazy next time.
 
OAL of a loaded cartridge has nothing to do with the length of the brass. It varies due to bullet inconsistency and/or press inconsistency, meaning you.
 
I just tap/wipe out all the old granules before putting in the new powder. You don't have to go nuts cleaning it. I use a long pair of forceps and a used dryer sheet to wipe it out.

I swap the pistol and rifle rotors back and forth. It's easy and it takes about a minute. I can't see spending that kind of cash for something completely unnecessary.

Finally, you are right to use the primers that are specified in the reloading manual. Some powders need magnum primers, most don't.

I like the forcep idea because you won't get any grease from your hands inside which will then cause the powder to stick even more.

Yeah that is a lot of money to blow just so I don't have to swap rotors around. I'll have to hold off on that for now. The manual does list to use a magnum primer but I thought I'd try a regular primer. Not saying this is good advice by any means, but from the extensive amount of research online I've done, the consensus seems to be that 2400 doesn't require a magnum primer. Some people reported pierced primers when using magnum primers with 2400.

I need to play around with the crimp more to make sure most of the powder is being burned.

Also need to figure out why a few granules of powder fall out after charging the case and indexing the press. I'll have to do some googling or call Hornady.
 
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OAL of a loaded cartridge has nothing to do with the length of the brass. It varies due to bullet inconsistency and/or press inconsistency, meaning you.

Yeah I'm not sure. It certainly could be either one. I know I need to work on being consistent when I raise and lower the ram.

I figured the length of brass would affect cartridge OAL since a shorter case may not get the mouth flared as much as a longer piece of brass. Which would then create more resistance during seating and not seat as far?
 
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Found this old thread that might explain my issue with the leaking powder.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/17337-Leaking-powder

Did it always leak? If not, what did you do right before it started to leak? Do you have the correct funnel piece (inside the drop tube) installed for the caliber?


Is the funnel in right side up? The tapered part goes up toward the powder measure and not down toward the cartridge. If you put it in upside down, you get leaks.

Although I'm pretty sure I have it installed correctly but I'll have to double check.
 
Yeah I know. I just wanted to hurry up and test the 12 rounds and didn't want to open the gate to our outdoor range. I won't be that lazy next time.

So knowingly damaging club property is OK as long as it makes things a little easier for you? I'm glad you don't belong to my club.
 
The manual does list to use a magnum primer but I thought I'd try a regular primer. Not saying this is good advice by any means, but from the extensive amount of research online I've done, the consensus seems to be that 2400 doesn't require a magnum primer. Some people reported pierced primers when using magnum primers with 2400.

I need to play around with the crimp more to make sure most of the powder is being burned.

You know what will help make sure all the powder is being burned? The right primer. Also, it makes no sense that a magnum primer would pierce while a standard one stays intact - magnum primers are usually thicker than standard.

It's probably not a great idea to ignore the reloading manual in favor of some guy on the internet when making your first reloads.
 
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You know what will help make sure all the powder is being burned? The right primer. Also, it makes no sense that a magnum primer would pierce while a standard one stays intact - magnum primers are usually thicker than standard.

It's probably not a great idea to ignore the reloading manual in favor of some guy on the internet when making your first reloads.

I agree with ya for sure. But I forgot to mention that on Alliant's website, they say to use CCI 500 small pistol primers that's why I didn't really hesitate to use standard primers:

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...owderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=9&cartridge=28

357 Magnum
158 gr Speer GDHP
1.575"
CCI 500
14.8gr
1,265fps

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I would assume it is safe to use load data right from the powder manufacturer?
 
oh that's interesting. I'd be comfortable using that if its what the company recommends. I don't think there would be any danger in trying magnum primers with your charge too just to see if all the powder burns.

For cleaning the vessel, after I dump it out and tap out any stragglers, I usually just take a can of compressed air and blow out the openings on either end.
 
I would assume it is safe to use load data right from the powder manufacturer?

You seem bound and determined to do whatever you want. Good luck to you, but I'm not going to justify it for you.

You're not using the same bullet. It's probably safe. If you don't care about making good ammo, then by all means pick whatever components you want.

Loading full power for magnum revolvers with slow powders is different than loading standard calibers with faster powders and lower pressures. I've done more of it than probably anybody else you'll ever meet. I think you're doing it wrong.
 
You seem bound and determined to do whatever you want. Good luck to you, but I'm not going to justify it for you.

You're not using the same bullet. It's probably safe. If you don't care about making good ammo, then by all means pick whatever components you want.

Loading full power for magnum revolvers with slow powders is different than loading standard calibers with faster powders and lower pressures. I've done more of it than probably anybody else you'll ever meet. I think you're doing it wrong.

No I was being serious when I asked that Jim, not sarcastic by any means. I'm definitely going to be picking up some magnum primers to try out and see if there are any differences in the unburnt powder, accuracy etc. I'm not trying to make a point that I'm right and everyone else is wrong for using a magnum primer. I just simply thought it wouldn't be dangerous to try a standard primer. But you're obviously right in saying that the load data from Alliant isn't with the same exact bullet so I can't safely assume and use their data across all bullet types. I apologize if I came off as justifying what I did was the best way to go and everyone else is wrong.

I definitely need to follow whatever the manual says because I don't have any experience to know if standard primers are okay to use. So it was definitely stupid on my part to swap out components and hope for the best without having any experience.
 
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Even if you used a magnum primer in place of a SP and got every bit of powder to burn..... would you really gain any actual performance, measurable performance. preasure increase im sure. I do not load and 357 loads as I prefer wimpy 38spl loads out of my pistol. I will note that from how I read the hornady 7th manual all the 357 loads are done with WSPM.
 
added primer questions

So both my hornady 7th and lyman cast call for SPM primers on the 357 mag and SP on the 38sp.

My question is if you substitute SP when a SPM is called for can you have ignition problems that could cause dangerouse presure spikes. For lack of a correct term a double preasure spike?
My lack of trying to relay this so please be patient

If you have a load that calls for a SPM primer and you use a SP. Could this cause a incomplete combustion of the power effectively leaving a chunk of the un burned powder to compress behind the bullet only to have a slight second ignition of the remaining powder once preasure builds? On the idea of the rifle loads that use fillers and result in " chamber ringing" ?

could this be even worse when using a dense powder that doesnt fill the case ?
 
You'll have to wait for one of the pros to weigh in on that. I have no idea. I'd be curious to know too, good question.
 
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