All the crony's from shooting crony have the same technology. only gain is data storage... I have the F1 with remote read out. The remote read out is a plus. I cant see the digital read out on the standard model with out a spotting scope or bino's
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My first reloads! and some questions
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
All the crony's from shooting crony have the same technology. only gain is data storage... I have the F1 with remote read out. The remote read out is a plus. I cant see the digital read out on the standard model with out a spotting scope or bino's
I was looking at the parts diagram. Technique aside could you put a large teflon washer between the sub plate and shell plate? Creating some friction? On the likes of how the drag works on a fishing reel?
No. You'd leave high primers. I doubt it would work anyway. Too much friction would cause it to not index properly. You'd have to get the torque just right, and it would probably be good for about two revolutions before you had to adjust it.
Not actually having one yet its hard to vission the connections of modifying one things affect on others....I will get one someday but every time I get 500$ to spend on myself I buy powder/ bullets/primers
So it has a cord right? Is it this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Chro...r=8-3&keywords=shooting+chrony#cm_cr_dpwidget
Reviews say it has only a 10ft cord?
This must be the one EC has:
http://www.amazon.com/Competition-E...73703&sr=8-8&keywords=competition+electronics
$100 now with free shipping.
My cord is more like 15'. I can set the crony 10' away and the cord is looped down to the ground and the display sits on a mini tripod on the bench. I find 10' to work well for rifle. The F 1 master has no memory that I am aware of so you need to write down your readings for each shot. I dont usually test more than 2 loads at a time so i dont need a lot of memory or fancy stuff. I also like to do the paper math.....I do not use math much at all other than money and have become math stupid in my older years.....i have forgotten all but simple math just because i never use it.......my hand writting sucks to. If I write a paragraph a week thats a lot!
They all seem to have their quirks... I just went with the best price on sale in 2011 when I bought mine.
They all seem to work on the same technology from years ago.... the 3 I see are the crony, comp, oheler 35 and rcbs has one. Pact is the only one that seems a bit updated as they use IR sensors. I do not know if IR sensors are better or not but PACT is useing the same old printer set up as the rest. User friendly and getting it to do what you want is a deciding factor. If you want to test 10 strings and down load the data to your computer then you might want to look deeper into different Crony's. Mine does what I need it to do. It works well from bow-air rifle-centerfire
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out of all the people I know who own guns only about 12 actually shoot, no one reloads and no one uses a crony. I have only seen 1 member @ my club other than me use a crony. He has a old oheler 35 but I never see him use the printer other than for a the display?
Yeah I know quite a few guys at my club who reload and I've yet to see a chrony at the range. I've never asked them if they own a chrony though.
It does seem like a fair amount of money to spend for the low volume reloader who only shoots a few calibers. But it seems like a good tool to have.
Mudflap621
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What the...
Mudflap621
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Maybe he should update with pics of the Dan Wesson 
Crimping , after sizing your case neck tension is tight enough for bullet hold but with revolvers a roll crimp will prevent the bullet jump , by removing the bell and look for the shiny ring that forms from the roll will be good enough , as you found out by over crimping and bulging the case , getting a case gauge is helpful . Pistol straight wall cases aren't as picky as rifle for trimming . You can check your lengths just pic the average length when setting up your crimp. I like the Lee Factory Crimp ( roll ) Die for revolver and ( taper ) for auto . You will find different brass brands the brass thickness will be different so reload the same brand , you will feel the difference when sizing and seating.
Seating your primers , in the beginning your afraid of blasting one off when seating , after seating your primers for awhile you will get the feel when they bottom , you can uniform your primer pockets with a primer pocket UNIFORMER , only has to be used once on your cases , they cut the case to the same in spec depth making seating primers trouble free . I do this mostly on my benchrest rifle cases.
I found finding the mildest magnum even 38 spl. load that shoots what your aiming at is good enough . Better all around on reloading and also not stressing the revolver. Shooting a steady diet of hot loads, problems like endshake and timing will develope. Keep your revolver clean and lightly oiled after every use. Supplies are hard to come by now so if your substituting SP for magnum primers is fine when your not loading to the max. Safer all around staying in the middle of the scale. When changing powders , I'm using the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 , I just let it drain out , don't do anything special., you just want to get all the grains out. Hope I Helped in some way .
Chris
Seating your primers , in the beginning your afraid of blasting one off when seating , after seating your primers for awhile you will get the feel when they bottom , you can uniform your primer pockets with a primer pocket UNIFORMER , only has to be used once on your cases , they cut the case to the same in spec depth making seating primers trouble free . I do this mostly on my benchrest rifle cases.
I found finding the mildest magnum even 38 spl. load that shoots what your aiming at is good enough . Better all around on reloading and also not stressing the revolver. Shooting a steady diet of hot loads, problems like endshake and timing will develope. Keep your revolver clean and lightly oiled after every use. Supplies are hard to come by now so if your substituting SP for magnum primers is fine when your not loading to the max. Safer all around staying in the middle of the scale. When changing powders , I'm using the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 , I just let it drain out , don't do anything special., you just want to get all the grains out. Hope I Helped in some way .
Chris
But are you WISER now?
If you had to guess, how many thousands of primers have you gone through since 2014?
Good question. I know I emptied a standard size Folgers coffee container filled with primers back in like 2016 maybe? I now have a small bucket about half full. I should probably weigh it and then get an average weight of a spent primer and do some back of the envelope math to figure out how many primers
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
Without weighing it I'm terrible at guesstimating. Maybe 40k???
Sounds about right. I tossed a 2 liter bottle half full of spents in August.
I was looking at the date and had a flashback of the 8 bricks of Wolf primers I had bought off the go-to vendor. 4 lg pistol mag and 4 lg pistol left over from .44 spl/ mags and giving them to a guy from Marshfield and a few different bottles of powder. But not before I burned off those 300's. Hammers!
Ah, memories.
I was looking at the date and had a flashback of the 8 bricks of Wolf primers I had bought off the go-to vendor. 4 lg pistol mag and 4 lg pistol left over from .44 spl/ mags and giving them to a guy from Marshfield and a few different bottles of powder. But not before I burned off those 300's. Hammers!
Ah, memories.
Question for the reloading pros. I’m about 1,000 rounds deep into my reloading career & have only now hit my first hiccup (well 2nd, but I figured the first one out).
I recently switched to a different bullet manufacturer after I went through all my Berrys bullets. No big deal, still using 115gr RN, so I assumed the die settings were still good to go.
Well, I went to range on Friday with two pistols; one ate these new reloads with the new brand of bullets just fine, the other pistol couldn’t shoot any of them without choking. Slide wouldn’t fully go back into battery after firing.
Question: when I change bullet manufacturers, should I be resetting the flare/bullet seating die? Could this be the culprit. No other changes to load or anything were made.
I recently switched to a different bullet manufacturer after I went through all my Berrys bullets. No big deal, still using 115gr RN, so I assumed the die settings were still good to go.
Well, I went to range on Friday with two pistols; one ate these new reloads with the new brand of bullets just fine, the other pistol couldn’t shoot any of them without choking. Slide wouldn’t fully go back into battery after firing.
Question: when I change bullet manufacturers, should I be resetting the flare/bullet seating die? Could this be the culprit. No other changes to load or anything were made.
Yes when changing any part of your recipe you need to check what you are making. And it sounds like your col is to long and out of spec max for 115rn is 1.169. Doesn't hurt to check them as you go. I use a case gauge and yes I check every one. And keep a log and write down charge weights and components col so you know what you like best.
Attachments
That’s the other thing. I did check the dimensions with micrometer & they all fell under 1.169 & all the other demensions were in spec.
strangely I used both a Wilson full length case gauge & a EGW case gauge. The new rounds had issues with the EGW gauge, but fit fine in the Wilson tool gauge. So I took the risk & tried to shoot them yet had these issues. So it must be my die settings.
thanks!
Rick O'Shea
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Case gauge every round. Any time anything changes in the process,.. (diff bullet, etc), re-check everything. 1.169" is like the max. Most run shorter oal.
pastera
NES Member
Any time you change any components you should rework the round.
Powder - if you are loading at the upper end changing lots requires working up a new load.
Cases - for precision shooting you want to sort and prep to minimize difference. For +P+ loads you need to sort for case volume.
Bullets - any changes can mean different diameter or seating depth.
But you should be dropping cartridges into a case gauge or barrel and checking powder drop periodically while loading (I do every 50-100). That is basic safe reloading practice
pastera
NES Member
For pistol this gets real tedious - if your process is good then you only need periodic checks to make sure things haven't moved out of limits.
If you need to gauge every round to find defects then your process needs work.
I will turn a new powder thru expander to fit a particular bullet seating depth if I know I'm going to shoot a lot of them. Bullets then seat easy and consistently so no need to gauge every round. But not everyone has a lathe handy.
Mudflap621
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Different bullets have different profiles. Sounds like The new bullet is contacting the rifling because it’s a slightly different shape. The different shape will also usually affect your coal because the seating stem will contact a different point on the bullet when seating.
The plunk test in your specific barrels is the only way to tell what will fit your gun. Drop the round in and it should be able to spin when fully seated.
As stated always check and rework the load when changing anything.
pastera
NES Member
Different bullet profiles need different COALs to work. This is very true with guns with short leads where the bullet ogive can easily hit the lands.
NEVER just take the risk!
Make a change and thoroughly check.
