Need help picking your first handgun? *Please read*

[Danrk6]

There are a lot of new and inexperienced shooters out there, and it is great to see the sport taking on new members. As these people join our midst we are flooded with questions, one of the most common being “what should my first gun be?” A friend of mine just recently got his LTC and asked me “what should I get?” Since this is a very popular question I decided I would throw together some information for these people in an attempt to help guide them in their decision making process.

The following is a rough breakdown to help guide these people in a helpful direction in order to make an educated decision. I by no means claim to know everything, so for those of you that feel I either left something out or got something wrong please feel free to toss me a PM and I will make revisions as I see fit.

For this review I will focus on just handguns for now, but if it gets a positive response I will consider writing an additional review dealing with rifles.

HANDGUNS:

There are two different types of handguns, the revolver, and the semi-automatic (ignoring the odd ball single shots). Both categories have their pros and cons depending on what your intended use of the gun will be. Many first time shooters are more concerned with mastering the art of using a firearm in a sport target shooting environment as opposed to its role as a tool of self defense. However no matter what type of shooting you are interested in, you will be spending quite a while and thousands or rounds of ammunition at the range in order to master your firearm. Before I breakdown target shooting and self defense guns I would just like to state that I believe no gun owner should be without at least one 22 caliber pistol. The reason for this is that 22 caliber ammunition costs a fraction of the cost of any other caliber. What this means for a shooter is that they are able to put far more rounds down range without hurting the wallet. The benefit to this is that you will be given more of an opportunity to master the basics of stance, breath, grip, and trigger control through the ability to practice more. For those of you with money to burn, by all means knock yourselves out with larger calibers.

Revolvers:

Pros:
- Will very rarely jam and are therefore very reliable as a carry weapon. Even if you have a dud you can keep pulling the trigger.
- Some have the flexibility to fire multiple cartridges such as the .357 magnum / .38 special with no modifications.
- Very easy to clean and maintain.
- Most newer revolvers built to high safety standards are capable of being dropped while loaded without going off (same goes for some automatics as well). It was brought to my attention by Depicts that most there are many older revolvers out there that are not built to the same standards, and therefore have the potential to be set off when dropped. I would not recommend throwing your gun on the ground to find out.
- They come in all different frame sizes to fit the shooters hand and needs
- Can be purchased as single action, double action, or both.

Cons:
- Limited capacity, anywhere from 5 to 8 rounds.
- On average (depending on experience), slower to reload than an automatic and carrying extra ammo can be more cumbersome than an extra magazine for an automatic.
- The cylinder makes them slightly wider than an automatic, depending on the person this could make it slightly more difficult to carry.
- Have more felt recoil because they lack a buffer mechanism.

If you decide to buy a revolver, you need to decide what you intend to use it for. If you decide that all you really want to do is target shoot, you will have far more options when choosing because you are not limited to what you can conceal. If you do not own any guns yet, as mentioned above, I would recommend you get at least a 22 to practice technique in addition to a larger caliber of your choosing. I personally own several J frame .38 special snub nose revolvers as well as a 3” .357 magnum which is capable of accepting .38 special (all of them happen to be Smith and Wesson’s, they make a damn good wheel gun with very nice stock triggers so I am partial to them). Many people make the mistake of assuming that revolvers are not as accurate as automatics. This is quite far from the truth. I am perfectly capable of shooting a paper target with any of my snubbies at 50 yards (with practice they are capable of much more). With any quality gun and good ammunition, the gun will usually outshoot the operator so it is simply a matter of practice, practice, practice. Most revolvers will usually be capable of shooting in both single and double action; I highly recommend one that does. Single action means that the hammer must manually be pulled back (or “cocked”) before each shot. The action of cocking a revolver pull back and set the trigger while at the same time rotate the cylinder positioning a round to be fired. A double action revolver does not require you to cock the gun prior to firing it, you simply pull the trigger (much longer and harder pull than single action) and it will automatically rotate the cylinder, pull back and drop the hammer firing the gun. In a self defense situation you never want to cock the gun (unless of course it is single action only) because it creates a chance that you will accidentally set it off. In single action the trigger will require far less pull travel in order to set the gun off. While your adrenalin is pumping it is far too easy to accidentally pull a shorter (usually lighter) trigger (many revolvers have adjustable trigger pull weights). For this reason you should make it a point to practice in double action (which will take far more time and effort to master). The benefit to mastering double action is that you will never accidentally set off the gun because you twitched. This is because a double action trigger requires an intentional pull with several pounds of pressure.

There are several different qualities in a revolver to look for when deciding which one you want aside from what type of trigger action it has. Some of these features include weight, barrel length, frame size / grip, and caliber (these are equally as important when choosing an automatic). Weight is very important and very specific to the user of the gun. A heavier gun will reduce felt recoil upon firing which will not punish the user as much, and it will increase your ability to place a fast follow-up shot down range because of less muzzle climb. On the other hand a heavier gun may be more annoying and cumbersome to carry around all day as your concealed carry gun (can usually be helped by a good carry rig and belt). A lighter gun increases how much kick the gun has, and can prove to even be painful for some users, especially with extended use. The benefit to the lighter gun is that it is obviously easier and less noticeable to carry. Next is the barrel length. There is an overwhelming belief that a longer barrel is more accurate and therefore better. Remember this, when it comes down to a handgun, IT IS NOT A SNIPER RIFLE, and should therefore not be treated as such. In a self defense situation, statistically you are likely to engage a target at only a few feet, meaning a snubby has more than enough barrel to do the job. However when you approach the realm of target shooting, the argument carries more weight. A longer barrel makes a handgun more accurate but usually not for the reason that most would think. It is mostly the increased sight radius which makes the gun easier to aim, and therefore more accurate (feel free to disagree). Next comes frame size and grip which is also usually specific to what you plan to do with the gun. A very popular carry size is the J frame because it is very easy to conceal, but many people also carry full size magnums, it really depends on the person. Another feature to look for in a carry gun could be an internal hammer, which prevents the gun from snagging on clothing when you draw (an example could be the S&W model 642). I would say the most important feature of the frame and grip is that it needs to feel comfortable in your hands. Go to a store and see what feels best in your hands, everyone is different. Last but not least, caliber, which is usually a big topic of debate. Personally I would never carry anything smaller than a .38 for reasons of stopping power. Obviously the bigger the bullet, the more stopping power it has. However the 22 in your pocket is always better than the 45 you don’t own yet. You can use lead or full metal jacket target ammunition to practice, but if you plan to carry make sure to pick up some quality hollow points (make sure to test it through your gun to make sure it functions as it should, because your life may depend on it).

 

[Danrk6]

Continued:

Semi-automatic:

Pros:
- Larger potential ammunition capacity than a revolver, anywhere from 7 to 20 rounds which offers a huge increase in firepower.
- Generally faster to reload than a revolver (depending on experience), and carrying an extra magazine is easier than carrying any form of revolver speed loading device with extra ammo.
- The frames tend to be thinner than a revolvers cylinder which can make them easier to conceal, and like revolvers come in many different shapes and sizes.
- Decrease in felt recoil because they have built in buffer mechanisms.

Cons:
- The biggest con for any automatic is that they have a lot more that can go wrong which can prove to be fatal for the untrained and unpracticed. These malfunctions include jamming, failure to feed a round, failure to eject a spent cartridge, etc. Even a dud will require the slide to be re-racked in order to eject the dud and put a fresh round in the chamber.
- Generally a lot more of a pain to clean, lots of moving parts, nooks and crannies.

If you decide to buy a semi-automatic, just like a revolver you will need to decide what it will be used for. Before I go into that I just want to clearly state what a semi-automatic handgun is. A semi-automatic is a gun that when fired will utilize gas pressure from the fired cartridge to push the slide back in order to eject the spent cartridge and then strip another round from the magazine into the chamber ready for the next shot. Just like a revolver, semi-automatics come in both single action as well as double action, with a few key differences. Unlike a single action revolver that requires the hammer to be cocked before each shot, a semi-automatic only requires the slide to be racked for the first shot. The act of racking the pistols slide will put the first round in the chamber and at the same time position the hammer in the cocked position. When you pull the trigger the hammer will fall and cause the gun to go off which will then set off the chain of reactions I just described. The gas from the first shot will re-cock the hammer and reload the gun at the same time, which means all you have to do is keep pulling the trigger to make the gun shoot. An example of a single action semi-automatic would be a 1911. A double action semi-automatic works just a bit differently. A semi-automatic double action gun must first have its slide cocked in order to chamber a round and will always have an exposed hammer. Up until this point the operation of a double action is identical to a single action. However, on a double action you can de-cock the hammer for when you keep it in your holster, and then when you draw the gun all you have to do is pull the trigger. When you pull the trigger for the first time it will be very comparable to the trigger pull and operation of a double action revolver. The hammer will move back and fall on the firing pin, but after that first shot the gun will have cocked itself ready for the next shot. An example of a double action semi-auto would be a Beretta 92f. When carrying a single action gun like my M&P, I keep a round in the chamber so all I have to do is pull the trigger. When carrying a double action like a Beretta 92f, most people will carry them with a round in the chamber but with the hammer de-cocked, which still allows them to draw and pull the trigger to shoot.

If you decide that all you really want to do is target shoot, just like a revolver you will have far more options when choosing a gun because you are not limited to what you can conceal. There are plenty of semi-automatics out there that are designed specifically for target shooting in mind (just like revolvers). Usually the main characteristics of a target pistol that separate it from a self defense weapon are weight / balance, barrel length, and usually caliber. The weight distribution and balance on a target pistol is usually so that there is a bit more weight towards the front of the gun. The additional weight at the front of the gun serves the purpose of controlling muzzle climb which allows for fast follow-up shots. In addition, I also find that by having more weight at the front of the gun, some of the muzzle movement during aiming is reduced. Generally target pistols will also have longer barrels than a carry weapon for an increase in sight radius. As previously mentioned, the increased sight radius is what makes the gun easier to aim, and therefore more accurate. When it comes to caliber of a target pistol, more often than not they are chambered in 22, which I personally prefer. The way I view a target pistol is as a tool for practice, others use them to compete, but whatever you use it for the principles are the same. Having the pistol chambered in 22 caliber means that you can put more rounds down range for less money and still practice the fundamentals. I personally own a Smith and Wesson 22a which my dad bought about 10 years ago (used) for $160. It is a fantastic gun, and if I were to guess how many rounds we have put through it at this point, I would say somewhere between 20,000 and 25,000. And this does not count however many rounds the previous owner had run through it. Just recently I experience its first problem in 10 years; the firing pin broke into 3 pieces which was an easy $4 part with $6 shipping from Brownells and 5 minutes to replace. There are plenty of really nice 22 target pistols out there; the 22a is just what I grew up with, so shop around and see what fits you best. I know another great line of guns are the Ruger Mark I, II, and III series. Some target pistols can cost you in the thousands, others are very cheap, and it really comes down to what you want and the size of your wallet. All that being said, I DO NOT consider my 22a to be a good practice tool for my carry gun, it is purely for perfecting technique in stance, sight alignment, breathing, and trigger control. The characteristics of a target designed pistol do not at all replicate the shooting characteristics of my carry gun which include muzzle climb, recoil, and overall feel. If you decide to buy a 22 that more closely resembles the characteristics of a semi-auto that you would actually carry, I would recommend looking into getting a Sig Sauer Mosquito as a designated 22. It has the same size and feel of a full size pistol but just like any 22 will lack the recoil felt of a larger caliber. Another option that many decide to go with is getting a regular larger caliber gun and then outfitting it with a 22 conversion kit so that it is essentially two guns in one. The benefit to this is that you get to practice using your carry gun but at the same time save money using 22 ammunition. I know that Sig Sauer has introduced 22 conversion kits that work in the P220, the P226, and the P229. Conversion kits are also available for other guns like the 1911, I know Kimber makes one. I personally don’t have any experience with these conversion kits so look around for reviews on each product.

When choosing a semi-auto you must pay attention to the same characteristics I previously mentioned in the revolver section. I went over the characteristics of weight, barrel length, frame size / grip, and caliber as being important when making your gun selection (simply review above). These characteristics are treated the same when picking a semi-automatic for your given needs. However, you are now confronted with a whole new selection of calibers as well as another characteristic to choose with, and that is magazine capacity. If you plan to use your gun as a self defense piece, choosing a bigger caliber is always better than smaller for reasons of stopping power. Personally I would never really want to carry anything smaller than a 9mm which a capacity of less than 10 rounds (with some .45s being the exception with 7 round mags). When choosing a gun based on capacity (in MA) it is important to understand the concept of a pre and post ban magazine. Part of a 1994 crime bill stated that all newly-manufactured detachable magazines which hold more than 10 rounds are now banned. However, this does still allow you to buy larger capacity magazines for your gun as long as they were manufactured prior to this ban. These older magazines are therefore called pre-ban magazines. So when you are buying a gun and want to have the ability to carry more than 10 rounds, be sure that the gun you are buying is able to accept pre-ban magazines. Newer guns like the S&W M&P series are not capable of accepting pre-ban magazines because they are so new that none exist. Guns like the Glock on the other hand have plenty of pre-ban magazines out on the market and it is just a matter of finding them. Even if the gun itself is not pre-ban, that does not mean you can’t use a pre-ban magazine, the gun must simply be designed to accept it.

It is impossible for me to tell anyone which particular gun will work best for them. I highly recommend that the best thing anyone can do before purchasing a gun is find a place or person that will let you try / rent as many guns as possible. This is equivalent to test driving a car before you buy it. There are several guns that I would personally recommend looking into as a semi-auto carry gun, but try before you buy. The Walther PPS (police pistol slim) is a great option as a carry gun. Though I have only had the chance to shoot it a handful of times, it demonstrates several strengths that are very important when looking for a carry gun. It is VERY thin and can be carried easily with comfort, and it can be found chambered in both 9mm and .40 caliber. Because I have not had extensive experience with the gun I cannot personally attest to its reliability but reviews are out there. One line of guns that has been tried, tested, and proven itself time and time again is the Glock. A strong case can be made that they are one of the most reliable handguns in the world. I have seen Glock torture tests which include dropping the pistol out of an airplane, digging it out of the crater, and it still worked. It has been dragged behind a truck on pavement, even had the slide shot at with 22s, and still worked. Glocks also come in a huge range of different frame sizes and calibers to choose from; 9mm, .40, 10mm auto, .45 G.A.P., .45 auto, .380 auto, and .357. The Glock may not be pretty, but you can trust that when you pull the trigger it is going to work. Another gun very similar to the Glock is the M&P (military and police) line from Smith and Wesson. I have field striped a Glock next to an M&P and found that the internals are almost identical. I personally carry an M&P 9mm compact (with a non-MA trigger) and love it. Each M&P comes standard with 3 back strap inserts (small, medium, and large) that help you adjust the grip to fit your hand. The M&Ps can come in 9mm, .40, .357, and .45 ACP (all but the .45 come in compact versions as well as full size). Smith and Wesson makes other lines of guns as well so take a look. Yet another great choice is the Sig Sauer line of guns, not to mention all of the 1911 variants out there. I could go on and on and list lots of guns, but just do yourself a favor and go take a look for yourself.

Whatever you end up choosing, you need to spend a lot of time at the range with your new gun to associate yourself with the potential issues you may run into. As mentioned previously, semi-automatics have the potential to jam in a variety of different ways. The last thing you want is to draw your gun in a self defense situation and experience a jam that you are unable to fix in a hurry.

CONCLUSION:
I hope that at least some people have found this information to be helpful in one way or another. To restate a few of the most important points:
- Test as many guns as you can before you decide which to buy.
- No matter what you decide to buy, spend the range time necessary to know it inside and out (especially if you plan to carry it for self defense).
- If you intend to carry the gun, be sure to get yourself some good quality self defense ammunition. Equally as important, you MUST try the ammo in your gun at the range to make absolutely sure that your gun will accept it (some guns are more picky than others when it comes to ammo).

Thanks for reading,
Dan

 

[FiremanBob]

Good piece. I emphasize that a .22 is the best choice for a first gun, since it enables one to learn the basics of sight picture, squeeze and follow through without risking recoil flinch. Kind of like learning to drive on an automatic instead of a stickshift.

 

[Mike-Mike]

Deleted

 

[Danrk6]

I think this sentence need a little work.

Thanks for the catch, brain fart...

Fixed

 

[depicts]

Good attempt to consolidate a lot of information. You've picked out the major concerns and advantages, and on the most part, did a good job.

Opinions aside, there are a few "errors in fact", or just plain typos.

What's in red needs work.

.

HANDGUNS:


Revolvers:

Pros:
- Will never jam and therefore very reliable as a carry weapon. Even if you have a dud you can keep pulling the trigger.A revolver can jam. They DO jam. However, they jam far less frequently than most semi-auto pistols.


- Some have the flexibility to fire multiple cartridges such as the .357 magnum / .38 special with no modifications.
- Very easy to clean and maintain.


- You can’t accidentally drop a revolver and have it go off (same goes for some automatics as well).MANY revolvers can go off if dropped. Modern guns may have safeties that prevent it most times, but there are lots of older guns around that will fire when dropped.

Most revolvers will usually be capable of shooting in both single and double action; I highly recommend one that does. Single action means that the hammer must manually be pulled back (or “cocked”) before each shot. The action of cocking a revolver will give it what is known as a hair trigger while at the same time position a round to be fired.
A single action gun does not have a hair trigger. Most revolver triggers have a range of pull weights, and it's very easy to put the trigger release at any pull weight. More likely, a single action trigger pull, in a revolver or a semi-automatic, will be a smother, easier pull than a double action pull with the same gun.

After that I stopped reading it. When opinion overlaps with facts, I get kind of lost.

Good job of trying to help explain these points to newbies. Keep at it.

 

[Danrk6]

Thanks for the pointers Depicts.

Fixed

 

[FrankNA]

Just found this older thread re: choosing your first gun as I’ve seen a bunch of “what should I get for my first gun” threads recently. Danrk6 provides a good, concise, explanation of the pros/cons of revolvers & semi-autos (IMO). Some might argue a few points but overall a good synopsis & general guideline of what to look for when choosing either a revolver or a semi-auto pistol. Thanks @Danrk6 for taking the time to put this together!