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New bow

You might want to try a local shop first, see if they have any trade ins. You might snag a better bow for a little more, but that bow itself isn't bad at all for a first time bow.

If you do buy it, bring it to a local shop so they can adjust it for you, and make sure you buy some stuff from them. You'll need arrows anyway.
 
Caught the quiver on the ladder rings as I was pulling it up. Ripped one of the fletchings off one arrow. Got out to my stand this morning before first light and realized I left my release in the truck. This whole season has been one dumb thing after another for me.
Brings back a bad memory of my cousin carrying in a climber in the dark and setting up 100 yards away from me after looking for the right tree for 15 mins (im already up in my ladder). All i hear is clang clang and him huffing and puffing, then i get a text...he forgot his release, rather than climbing down he thinks he may be able to fire with his fingers, draws his bow and i hear booooooing...string off the pulleys. He gave up after that and climbed down and got out of the woods, I shot a button buck 45 mins later.
I've probably got the oldest scott mongoose wrist release known to man. But it works, and I've shot about 100 deer with it, but I always wanted to try some of these new ones.
I've got no intention of switching. From what I've heard the free hand release triggers are less sensitive so you're more apt to jerk your bow while releasing and they take time to get used to, the wrist release never bothered me. Matter of fact I'm considering going back to a whisker biscuit for better arrow retention, the fall away feels too sloppy to me
 
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That will be fine for a first bow. I bought a Bear from, dare I say . . . Dick's, almost ten years ago. It was an rth package like that. I appreciated the flexibility with adjusting draw length and weight until I became proficient with it (I also like to tinker). You'll realize the shortcomings of the setup at some point. You really don't need $2k in equipment to kill a deer. It can always be a backup bow when you upgrade.
 
That will be fine for a first bow. I bought a Bear from, dare I say . . . Dick's, almost ten years ago. It was an rth package like that. I appreciated the flexibility with adjusting draw length and weight until I became proficient with it (I also like to tinker). You'll realize the shortcomings of the setup at some point. You really don't need $2k in equipment to kill a deer. It can always be a backup bow when you upgrade.
This is a better way to explain it, my first bow was a diamond from dicks, kit just like this as well. Killed plenty of deer with it
 
Thanks guys! Bought this bow. $306! & I have practice arrows.

With a focus on inexpensive & utility; what are some recommended arrows and arrow heads for deer hunting? (Given I'm in my late 50s & my bad shoulders, I will probably set at 50ish lbs.)

Perhaps a link to Amazon, to make it easy???
 
Thanks guys! Bought this bow. $306! & I have practice arrows.

With a focus on inexpensive & utility; what are some recommended arrows and arrow heads for deer hunting? (Given I'm in my late 50s & my bad shoulders, I will probably set at 50ish lbs.)

Perhaps a link to Amazon, to make it easy???
Congrats and welcome to the fun! You'll want to determine your draw length and cut or buy your arrows precut to that length.

You'll definitely want to practice quite a bit before considering doing any hunting. You should be consistently hitting a basketball at 40 yards at a minimum.

Eastons are a good generic arrow, the type you used is based on spine. Check the below chart for the spine needed based on weight and length of draw.

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Montec G5's are the standard fixed blade broadhead that a lot of guys use, you can get into mechanicals as well but I find it best to start with fixed blades.

Amazon product ASIN B0032FZ7L2View: https://www.amazon.com/G5-Outdoors-Montec-Broadhead-Grain/dp/B0032FZ7L2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=montec+g5+100+grain&qid=1669745246&sprefix=montec%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-3
 
You need to have the bow adjusted for your draw length also. Once you know that and your actual draw weight you can have arrows made up.

I have Easton arrows with Tooth of The Arrow fixed blade broadheads. Not sure of the exact model on the arrows, but they're a 500 spine. I'm in the same boat as you with shoulder issues, so my draw weight is around 50 to 55.

Again, I think a local shop is your best bet if you can get to one.
 
Brings back a bad memory of my cousin carrying in a climber in the dark and setting up 100 yards away from me after looking for the right tree for 15 mins (im already up in my ladder). All i hear is clang clang and him huffing and puffing, then i get a text...he forgot his release, rather than climbing down he thinks he may be able to fire with his fingers, draws his bow and i hear booooooing...string off the pulleys. He gave up after that and climbed down and got out of the woods, I shot a button buck 45 mins later.

I've got no intention of switching. From what I've heard the free hand release triggers are less sensitive so you're more apt to jerk your bow while releasing and they take time to get used to, the wrist release never bothered me. Matter of fact I'm considering going back to a whisker biscuit for better arrow retention, the fall away feels too sloppy to me
I've used the Whisker Biscuit for years with great success. My shots are almost always 30 yards and in. I wouldn't use anything else for hunting its simple and foolproof.

For targets I can see a fall away being more accurate at longer ranges, but there is a level of complexity, cam timing, etc with that as well I choose not to have to deal with when hunting.
 
You need to have the bow adjusted for your draw length also. Once you know that and your actual draw weight you can have arrows made up.

I have Easton arrows with Tooth of The Arrow fixed blade broadheads. Not sure of the exact model on the arrows, but they're a 500 spine. I'm in the same boat as you with shoulder issues, so my draw weight is around 50 to 55.

Again, I think a local shop is your best bet if you can get to one.
I shoot Easton 6.5's. Reasonably priced off amazon. Thinner arrows will be more expensive. Youll want to stay with one size thickness, because of inserts and knocks that fit, and lighted knocks that fit, etc. You should have extras for repairs, as if you hit something hard you may lose a knock or point tip, or ferrule may pull out.

I leave mine about 1.5" longer than my DL and shoot 340's at 60#'s for less vibration and more penetration with 100 grain heads

I'd imagine at 50# depending on your DL you'd be shooting a 400 or 500. Id say 400 would be more likely.

Just regular Muzzy's MX-3 or Bass Pro Blackout or G5 Strikers fixed heads. Striker/Blackouts blades are sharper than Muzzy.

Muzzy tends to be on good sale at WM post season like $15 for a 3 pack, killed a lot of deer with all of them. Last kill was a spine shot and the Muzzy MX-3 just blew out the bottom part of the spine it hit. It was at a severe down angle. Deer went 0 yards after shot. MX-3 Head was still good after.
 
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I've used the Whisker Biscuit for years with great success. My shots are almost always 30 yards and in. I wouldn't use anything else for hunting its simple and foolproof.

For targets I can see a fall away being more accurate at longer ranges, but there is a level of complexity, cam timing, etc with that as well I choose not to have to deal with when hunting.
Exactly my thinking, I almost never take a shot while hunting that's further than 40 yards and I think we're sacrificing a lot of simplicity and reliability for a little more range that we probably shouldn't be trying to stretch anyways
 
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