No Love for the G34!

Mountain

Mountain

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But I'm not ready to give up. [smile] If you want to spare yourself from my usual rambling, skip to the last paragraph.

So far I'm not 'feelin' the Tupperware. I have borrowed and shot a couple well worn Glocks and liked them. This is my first Glock and actually my first 9mm too. I have an almost new G34 Gen4 and have fired only ~200 rounds during 3 trips to the range. I have two reasons that I'm not lovin' it. First is that I have had 4 FTF's, second reason is the accuracy has been underwhelming.

The FTF's have happened with three different makes of ammo, all plain jane FMJ stuff. As I type, I think I may have found the culprit. One of the 3 mags looks a little messed up at the front of the lips- like a mold issue with the plastic or something hit and damaged the lips in manufacturing. Easy enough to test that theory next time at the range. Any other typical reasons for a new Glock to FTF?

Regarding accuracy & likely responses: Yes, I could certainly learn to shoot better and I sure as hell could use more practice. That's not what concerns me at the moment. I'm not a terrible shot and have done well in Bullseye competition. There's a major difference in my groups / scores between the G34 and other pistols I shoot. My 1911's, 686 S&W, and even a Sig P220 Compact are all shooting significantly better for me.

Seems like the stock trigger is pretty terrible, with a relatively high pull weight. I don't have a gauge, but I have hang weights I use to check my match rifles & the G34 is breaking at almost 7 lbs on the tip of the trigger. I'm sure it's worse at the bow of the trigger, where it matters. Trigger is a bit gritty too. I'm gonna guess that this is most if not all of my equipment related accuracy problems.

So I'm hoping that I'm only a trigger job away from lovin' the G34. I assume that I can determine what are the usual contact points to polish and clean up the gritty pull / break. Though not on Glocks, I have a little experience with this. Given that this is only a range & match toy, what disconnector and/or springs should I install? How low can I go for pull weight? I can reload for it if low pull weights warrant that. Anything else I should do? Thanks in advance.
 
Very interested in this topic, I have a 34 in gen3 or 3.5 (if there is such a thing... G4 style checkering and rail, no replaceable back strap and no G4 marking on the slide.)
My observations are much the same, I'm interested in what mods are allowable within IDPA restrictions.
 
jtnf said:
Very interested in this topic, I have a 34 in gen3 or 3.5 (if there is such a thing... G4 style checkering and rail, no replaceable back strap and no G4 marking on the slide.)
My observations are much the same, I'm interested in what mods are allowable within IDPA restrictions.
Click to expand...

IDPA legal mods would be interesting for me too. Though for bowling pin matches, etc. I'd also be interested in what to do when throwing the rule book out the window, LOL.
 
The G34 is a very sweet shooter, but it doesn't start out that way. You should first look to replace the sights. Lots of good choices out there. I like the Sevigny and Dawson sights. Then you need some trigger work. You can replace the connector and springs yourself for under $30, or you can drop in a complete trigger kit like the Vanek Classic for about $130. After that its practice, practice, practice.


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Work over the trigger gear. Try a competition spring kit (I bought Zev) and try a new connector. Careful because some combos can give a real spongy trigger. The springs in Gen 4s can be fussy and the safety plunger is a usual suspect. After doing the above I really warmed up to the 34. This was to replace the G22 I was using in 3 gun. Some Dawson sights and plenty of ammo and I'm happy.
 
I've been shooting a G34 in IDPA and other practical games for 15 years.

I'm also a cheap bastard. So here is my prescription for a much better shooting G34.

1) Glock sights aren't as bad as people say. Spray paint the back of the rear sight black and replace the front with a fiber optic. Cost $35.

2) Take the gun apart and stone/buff the bearing surfaces. Put GREASE where the trigger bar cams against the connector.

3) Buy a set of 3 striker springs from Wolff Spring. Get a 4#, 4.5#, and 5#. Stock is 5.5#.

4) Buy a replacement light weight plunger spring for the striker safety.

5) First clean the striker channel, clean all the parts and leave everything free of lube, then assemble.

6) Start with the 4# spring and shoot it in non match conditions. If it runs great, enjoy your new 3.5 lb trigger. (as measured from the middle of the trigger bow using a lymann digital gauge.

7) if you have failure to fire problems, move up to the 4.5# spring. or even the 5# spring if necessary. The heavier the striker spring, the heavier the trigger.

A couple of things to keep in mind. If you reload, using Federal primers on your reloads (since they are more sensitive) will allow you to use a lighter striker spring for a better trigger pull.

Reminder - this is only for "toy" guns. If the gun will be used to shoot anything other than paper, clays, or steel, do not put a lighter weight striker spring in the gun.

- - - Updated - - -

Last year I decided I was going to test how fast I was with my G34 vs my Dan Wesson Pointman 9. I wanted to go faster with the DW. Its a much nicer gun.

But it turns out I shoot steel faster with my G34 than I do with the PM9. Very disappointing. The DW is more accurate. But my shot to shot recovery with the Glock was faster despite its lighter weight. I'm guessing its the low bore axis.

Don
 
I dropped a Gen3 trigger bar in my Gen4 G17 and it made it somewhat better. Still not as good as my beat-to-hell, police trade-in, Gen2 23 ;-)

I think how far you go depends on how "stock" you want your pistol to be for IDPA. If you don't care about the bump to "enhanced" then the quickest fix is to buy one of the drop in race triggers/spring kits....done. But as previously mentioned this gun is no longer for self defense.

If you want to remain stock...then I think you're looking at the usual suspects...connector, 25cent trigger job,and lots of ammo down to pipe.

The earlier suggestion to use grease on the connector/trigger bar engagement sounds like a good one...I'm gonna give that a go.
 
**DRB** said:
Gen 4 dual recoil spring sucks ass... That has been know to be a problem. My 34 MOS is still one of my face guns ever
Click to expand...

^this.
my wife's G34 gen 4 required ~600 rounds until it stopped nosediving. it also exhibited constant brass-to-face.

a quick fix to help ejection was to attach a TLR-1 to the rail, which seems to keep the frame from moving under recoil and thus helping slide movement.

overall best mods I made to that G34 were:
1. 25c trigger job (i.e. polishing internals that make contact)
2. G17 gen 3 recoil spring assembly with a gen 4 -> gen 3 slide adapter ring (annoying but worked fine)

there are persistent ejection issues with gen 4 9mm glocks that none of the glocktards or glock themselves want to acknowledge. it is one of the reasons I have shifted almost exclusively back to gen 3's.
 
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Thanks very much everyone for the helpful comments. Good to know that it's a common issue with options to solve. Since this is only a range toy, no worries about reliability.

Don- Good (cheap) plan for addressing the issues. I'll start with those and post back to this thread with results. Funny that for my match Garand I exclusively use the harder CCI primers, but now for the modded G34 I'll go with the softer Feds.

Squib308- Interesting to note the ejection issues with Gen 4's. Mine ejected the spent brass but seemed to just barely do this before failing to feed the next round. Unless I go back to many years ago when I had a Para P1640 that was glitchy until broken in, I've never had a problem with any of my pistols. That puts the G34 in the same category as the Para, LOL. Never heard nor seen such issues with the older Gen models.
 
There is a break-in period with these guns. Particularly if you try to push the envelope with light loads or if you ride the slide with your thumb or if you limp wrist it. But after about 3000 rounds or so they are more forgiving. I like the ghost evo elite connector and spring kit. YMMV
 
For my G17 Gen 4 I have the following mods

.25 Trigger Job
Double Diamond 3.5 connector
ZEV Striker Safety plunger and Spring
ZEv Trigger return Spring
Zev Enhanced Striker
Wolff 5.0 Lb Striker Spring

Better overall. But it's still a Glock...

I did try a Gen 3 Trigger bar (no dimple), but was not wowed, so I went back to the Gen 4 one.
 
Weird, I have a Gen 3 G34 that is the nicest shooting Glock I've ever used. It had maybe 2500rds on it when I got it, and I've put about 5000 more on it. No mods. It shoots better than I do for sure.
 
thormx538 said:
Weird, I have a Gen 3 G34 that is the nicest shooting Glock I've ever used. It had maybe 2500rds on it when I got it, and I've put about 5000 more on it. No mods. It shoots better than I do for sure.
Click to expand...

That's good- maybe being well broken in helps plus it seems the complaints are coming from the Gen 4's.

As is brand new, mine blows. Putting it bluntly, possibly the worst trigger I have ever pulled. It does not shoot anywhere near what I normally shoot, even with a compact 45. I have shot other used and abused Glocks and liked them. I'll see how it does with a little work. Cool gun, hope I can correct the issues to my satisfaction.
 
Mountain said:
That's good- maybe being well broken in helps plus it seems the complaints are coming from the Gen 4's.

As is brand new, mine blows. Putting it bluntly, possibly the worst trigger I have ever pulled. It does not shoot anywhere near what I normally shoot, even with a compact 45. I have shot other used and abused Glocks and liked them. I'll see how it does with a little work. Cool gun, hope I can correct the issues to my satisfaction.
Click to expand...


Yikes... My gen3.whateveritis G34 isn't THAT bad. I'd have to reserve that dubious honor, among my collection, for either the P250c .45 or M&P 9C (both assachusetts triggers.)

G34, slow fire, 10 yards my last time out:
modg.jpg
 
I put in the ghost evo elite connector and springs, this one you have to shorten the tab that gives you the reduced over travel until the gun fires. they also have drop in ones that you don't have to do any fitting, but they don't reduce the over travel.
 
dcmdon said:
I shoot steel faster with my G34 than I do with the PM9. Very disappointing. The DW is more accurate. But my shot to shot recovery with the Glock was faster despite its lighter weight. I'm guessing its the low bore axis.

Don
Click to expand...
This was my exact experience. I switched out to a CZ for most of last summer and then realized I was shooting steel slower. I'm going to give it another try though.

For OP-IDPA allows internal modifications to remain in SSP division. So an internal trigger job, using the stock external trigger would be ok. Grip tape and sights can also be changed. External modifications require the gun be used in ESP.
 
jtnf said:
Yikes... My gen3.whateveritis G34 isn't THAT bad. I'd have to reserve that dubious honor, among my collection, for either the P250c .45 or M&P 9C (both assachusetts triggers.)

G34, slow fire, 10 yards my last time out:
View attachment 163516
Click to expand...

That's a nice slow fire group. At 15 yards, I had to be way too careful with the trigger to get a decent group. Maybe one of my Mosins has a worse trigger, but none of my handguns do. The only new Mass semi I have is a P220C, but it has the factory SAS trigger. It's a pretty decent trigger and I actually really like the short reset feature. Long story behind it, but years ago Mrs. Mountain bought me a Colt Custom Shop 1911 through her work. The trigger is fantastic.

I have a set of the Wolff Glock springs on order, but in the meantime I picked up a Zev spring kit from another NESr during lunch today. Cheap enough to keep spares. Hope to make the mods & report back before I head overseas next week.
 
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love my 34 gen4 bought it from a great nes member. I did change the front sight dropped the zev comp spring kit in it also polished the other fine points. it is a smooth straight shooter . I put it up ther with my vp9 and the 1911 for smooth operators.
 
Have you checked to make sure it has the "right" stuff, in terms of trigger spring, etc? I remember reading on arfcom that some of the G34/G35 shipped with heavier triggers (either the "normal" 5.5lb-ish combo, or a NY1 spring) because they were intended for police departments. I know the G35 is a popular PD gun.
 
I don't think this trigger would break at 4.5 lb even at the tip of the trigger, let alone the middle of the bow. It was supposed to ship with the 4.5 lb trigger- it's on the paperwork / label.

------

Did a family members taxes last night and had a little time to start breaking down the G34:

Does anyone know if the sear surface on the striker engages on that full surface or only at the corner? This surface was pretty rough- IMO poor quality from manufacturing and the machining and/or grinding needs some attention. After polishing it by hand with metal polish, there still is a pretty significant pit in the middle of this surface. If that pit is part of the trigger release, itsa no good.
 
Here's a pic of the pit:

image.jpg

Can anyone confirm if this surface affects trigger break or if that pit is out of the way and a non-factor? Gracias
 
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When the Gen 4 came out there were problems with the new dual recoil spring assembly. It took Glock a few tries before it was fixed.

Make sure you have the latest recoil spring assembly in your gun, it should be marked 0 2 4 on the end. If you don't, contact Glock and they will send you the correct one free of charge.
 

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