Polymer80 build

Viper22

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Now for the fun part. 17 slide? 34 slide? Ported? Comp? RMR cut? .22LR conversion? Internals?

Initially I was thinking 17 w/ported barrel, possibly RMR cut. But if I find a .22LR conversion for cheap enough....that'll get me going while giving more time for picking 9mm components and decide on 17 vs 34.o_O
 

ReluctantDecoy

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Dipped my toe in the P80 pool. Pretty sure there's still some grinding to be done--ftf on every round unless I manually rack it. Fun project though!
Aside from rail buffing/grinding, check the cut area of the frame where the recoil spring sits. Mine wasn't cut enough initially (I didn't round out the bottom enough), causing a tiny rough spot in the action. Mine didn't cause any failures, but I did notice polymer shavings on my recoil spring. After I cut out more of the frame, the action got a little smoother. I could see that causing issues with ftf.

I
 

Viper22

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Something to note: When adding an Agency Syndicate polymer magwell to a pf940c, it will cause u-notch G19 mags to no longer catch. There is interference with the base plate and magwell. Square notch should not be a problem. Also, ETS 10rd mags work fine.

The magwell was orignally purchased for use on a pf940cl, but the grip is ever-so-slightly different and will not work. Only works on the 940c. Looks like the options for the CL are limited.
 

ReluctantDecoy

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Something to note: When adding an Agency Syndicate polymer magwell to a pf940c, it will cause u-notch G19 mags to no longer catch. There is interference with the base plate and magwell. Square notch should not be a problem. Also, ETS 10rd mags work fine.

The magwell was orignally purchased for use on a pf940cl, but the grip is ever-so-slightly different and will not work. Only works on the 940c. Looks like the options for the CL are limited.
unotch just barely work as-is with the 940c. Mine have failure to return to battery every now and then. I'd never carry them EDC. They feel like a MM too short. If you measure a U next to a square or ETS, you'll notice the distance from the mag catch to the baseplate is like 3-4 mm shorter on the U.
 

amm5061

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Looks like I got a defective takedown lever spring in my 940c frame parts kit. The takedown lever literally fell out of the frame.

Eventually I'll get around to ordering a new one, but that's damned annoying. Extra annoying since now I will need to force the locking block out of the frame after I had to pound the f***er in in the first place.
 

ReluctantDecoy

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Looks like I got a defective takedown lever spring in my 940c frame parts kit. The takedown lever literally fell out of the frame.

Eventually I'll get around to ordering a new one, but that's damned annoying. Extra annoying since now I will need to force the locking block out of the frame after I had to pound the f***er in in the first place.
My locking block was snug and did require a couple light taps with a rubber mallet on first install, but after than it could be hand-pressed into the frame. I don't recall why I had to remove mine, but it does get easier. Easier to work with than the trigger housing in my opinion. That does suck about the spring. A tiny piece of metal, yet critical enough to prevent proper function when broken.

Looking back on my assembly, these are the points that I wish I had read up on before starting:
  • Make sure to remove all of the U channel block for the guide rod. I had a tiny lip left on mine. I think I was too paranoid about getting close to the part of the frame you shouldn't remove. The guide rod appeared to clear it easily, but must have been touching it during recoil as it left plastic shavings after first range trip.
  • Oil the guide rod. Doesn't immediately seem to need it considering metal on polymer, but it sounds like a pair of rusty scissors out of the box and one might think it is the rail system at first.
  • Make sure everything is level, including the drill, when making the frame holes. It is easy to think the jig will prevent crooked drilling, but as I found out the hard way, that isn't 100% true. Even an extremely slight angle into one side will make pushing the pin through the frame, trigger shoe, and slide catch a nightmare to line up. Re-drilling might not be an option, as your holes then go out of spec. I had to torque my pin so a side while pushing it in. Not ideal, as then the trigger shoe feels heavier than factory spec until proper break in.
  • Take your time with tab removal. A Dremel might be ok to start, but finish with hand filing/sanding to avoid removing too much material. Mine came out fine, but I was almost caught off guard by how fast the Dremel removed the tabs.
 
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