PTR 91 .308 Questions-FFL Help

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hendrix923

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Hello fellow firearm enthusiast

http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/com...r-classic-wood-308-rifle-detail.html?Itemid=0

Does anyone have any experience with this rifle, very nice looking IMO? Ready to get into some .308

Living in MA Ive learned almost anything can be purchased with patience, research and determination. I want this rifle. My only concern is the possible flash hider. Does anyone recommend an FFL in MA that is nice to work with and possibly do some gunsmithing?

Appreciate any help/opinions and general thoughts.

Regards

Peter
*I know there is a similar thread on here but my main concern is finding a good FFL to work with, never gone through the process of shipping a firearm into MA*
 
I was going to order this rifle tonight. I was planning on using 1776 gunsmithing and just having them perm attach a muzzle brake. Was in there this week talking to them about it. Seem like great guys. Never used them but just picked up a bunch of FAL magazines from them for a transfer though. Would give them a call.

EDIT:
This is the muzzle brake I was planning on having them attach
http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/HK-G3-91-PTR-NY-CA-Muzzle-Brake-US-121p12746.htm#.Uu7zEqYo5D8
 
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I was gonna get one but I got the MSR instead. Had it at the range today and hit 300yds over and over. But they do wreck brass. Get, you'll be happy.
 
Good rifle. It's kind of a bitch to take it apart for cleaning and the rifle is heavy. It also leaves a bruise on my shoulder worse than a 12 gauge. As has been said, it wrecks brass. It flings them so far, you can't find the brass anyway. The one I have has nothing on the end of the barrel and is totally MA legal.
 
Have a PTR-91 GI. Nice rifle, in an ugly battle rifle way. Not comfortable if you're tall - the hump sits against my cheekbone with the stock stock and a good cheek weld.

The previously available MA/CT compliant package comes with a pressed, welded muzzle device that looks like a flash hider, but has no holes in it. Avoid it if you can, as you can't remove it without either cutting the barrel or removing the while barrel and having it turned down on a lathe.
 
In God We Trust said:
Good rifle. It's kind of a bitch to take it apart for cleaning and the rifle is heavy.
Click to expand...
Really? My PTR-91 A3S is easier to field strip than my punky little Ruger 10/22 mouse gun. (I just cleaned both last night.)

With the H&K G3/91 construction there are no tools required: Push the two pins out of the stock and pull it off with the recoil rod/spring, pull out the lower receiver (trigger pack comes out without tools too), and cycle the charging handle to drop the bolt group in your hand. Twist the bolt to remove it from the carrier, twist the locking piece to remove it and the firing pin and spring. Yes, there's a bit of a trick to reassembling the bolt onto the locking piece and carrier, really just knowing where to align things and how far to push the bolt without locking the rollers out, which would make it impossible to replace in the receiver.

To clean the Ruger 10/22, after you use two different tools (at least on my carbine) to remove the action from the stock, there are three slip pins to press out, requiring a tool unless they've already loosened up so much that they fall out when you take the action out of the stock. And watch out for the other slip pins holding the magazine release and the trigger, because they're probably already loose and looking for a chance to fall out too, when you're not looking. The reassembly trick is to make sure the ejector is in its slot facing forward - and it's as easy to assemble it wrong as right.
 
In God We Trust said:
Good rifle. It's kind of a bitch to take it apart for cleaning and the rifle is heavy. It also leaves a bruise on my shoulder worse than a 12 gauge. As has been said, it wrecks brass. It flings them so far, you can't find the brass anyway. The one I have has nothing on the end of the barrel and is totally MA legal.
Click to expand...

A bitch to take apart? I think you could not be further from the truth...

This was the first rifle I ever owned and I have yet to meet a better field stripper.
 
I had the HK91, Nice rifle but i wasn't in love with it. To big and heavy, and not comfortable to shoot IMHO. If you get one a Bi-pod would be a great help.
 
Yeah, they are big; They are heavy; They ding up brass, if you can ever find it.

The trigger pull has been described as "dragging a grand piano down a gravel road".

Replacement parts can be pricey, and occasionally difficult to find. (HKParts.net or robertrtg.com is your friend(s)).
If you plan on putting glass on it, (and don't have a welded rail) you might go through two or three mounts before you find one that works for you. The HK claw mount is very solid and you can still use your irons, but mounts very high. The MFI (or B&T, if you can find one) mounts lower, but blocks the irons when a scope is mounted, and is still a bit high for a good cheek weld. I'm using an MFI with a quick-detach mount at the moment, and am pretty happy with it.

Early ones were made with barrels with the "incorrect" number of chamber flutes. These were arguably SLIGHTLY more accurate, but could be finicky with surplus ammo. Later ones seem to have the proper number of chamber flutes.

All that being said, it's my favorite battle rifle. The delayed roller blowback is tough as hell, and loves to run dirty. Great battle rifle accuracy. Mags are plentiful and cheap. Ergos fit ME just fine.

Obligatory: Check your bolt gap.
 
I have a CETME, which if you look you might be able to find for even cheaper. And they can be found with a factory installed muzzle break. Thing is, mine has never been all that accurate so maybe the PTR91 is better in that respect. I don't know if its the barrel, or more likely the absolutely terrible trigger, but I've never been able to get it to group very well. It does make a big boom and is fun to shoot. I put a red dot on mine so it is fun for shooting plates, and the plates don't get me frustrated when I see the spread of the group.

Field stripping is pretty easy, but like someone else said, getting the bolt back onto the carrier correctly without locking the rollers can drive you nuts until you get the knack of it. The first time I wasted so much time trying to figure it out (this was before YouTube could come to my rescue).
 
PTR makes mass compliant stuff. Any gun dealer worth their salt can get these guns in.

-Mike
 
Mattyd7 said:
I have a CETME, which if you look you might be able to find for even cheaper. And they can be found with a factory installed muzzle break. Thing is, mine has never been all that accurate so maybe the PTR91 is better in that respect. I don't know if its the barrel, or more likely the absolutely terrible trigger, but I've never been able to get it to group very well. It does make a big boom and is fun to shoot. I put a red dot on mine so it is fun for shooting plates, and the plates don't get me frustrated when I see the spread of the group.

Field stripping is pretty easy, but like someone else said, getting the bolt back onto the carrier correctly without locking the rollers can drive you nuts until you get the knack of it. The first time I wasted so much time trying to figure it out (this was before YouTube could come to my rescue).
Click to expand...

Who made your CETME? Is it a true Spanish CETME? Was it a Century build?
 
drgrant said:
PTR makes mass compliant stuff. Any gun dealer worth their salt can get these guns in.

-Mike
Click to expand...

I have a PTR GI and bought it from a CT dealer who did the Mass. compliance mod.

If you call PTR they have a dealer in Conn. (really) that can do the brake for you. That dealer can ship it to your Mass. FFL or you can pick it up in CT. Now, with the new CT restrictions, maybe that's not possible now.
 
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Appreciate all the great answers and help. Have emails out and process is in the works. Looks like the GI model has a detachable break, they can keep it and Ill get a comp gunsmithed. Cannot own a battle rifle without a compensator, just doesnt look right.

Peter
 
Mattyd7 said:
Century Arms build. The series with the black hardware, not the wood. I've heard the Century ones with the wood were better quality but I've never tried one to compare.
Click to expand...

I (had to) rebuilt a century wood furniture century CETME. Check out the rear of the bolt head. If it looks like its been ground or sanded down, there's your problem - and I wouldn't shoot it anymore if I were you. Rather than using oversized rollers to address the head space, Century tended to grind down the rear of the bolt face to get the bolt gap correct, but this does nothing to fix the fact the bolt head isn't fully locked into the trunnion. kabooms ensue.
 
I just ran through over a hundred rounds this weekend with mine. Love it. I have an extra claw mount with picatinny rails if anyone is interested. I picked up a German scope and mount for it, so don't really need a 2nd one.

There should not be an issue with getting one as long as it doesn't have the collapsible stock.
 
hendrix923 said:
Appreciate all the great answers and help. Have emails out and process is in the works. Looks like the GI model has a detachable break, they can keep it and Ill get a comp gunsmithed. Cannot own a battle rifle without a compensator, just doesnt look right.

Peter
Click to expand...
If you want a FUNCTIONAL muzzle device, make sure that your FFL orders you the PTR 91 G.I. (item # 915300 - http://ptr91.com/products/PTR G.I.?id=23) and NOT the PTR 91 G.I. C (item # 915301 - http://ptr91.com/products/PTR G.I. C?id=27), as the "C" version has the welded barrel extension that you will not be able to easily remove without significant gunsmith fees and/or a machine shop of your own.

Edit: Alternatively - If you DO want the barrel extension, I'd gladly trade you my almost brand new G.I. C model, 1-for-1 plus a few preban mags, for the version with the threaded barrel.
 
This rifle, like the CETME, has a delayed blowback roller system. It's really a cool way to handle semi-auto fire as long as it remains clean and properly "head spaced".

You will notice that it has a fluted chamber. The brass will have black strips along the sides. That allows some of the gas to float the empty brass out of the chamber for extraction. You have to keep those flutes clear. I used a 12 gauge brass brush in and out and that helped keep the soot out. Also, like the CETME, you check the headspace with a feeler gauge. Charge the rifle with the mag out. Flip the rifle over and you'll measure the gap at the bolt head. you don't want one too big or too small. I forget the perfect number but IIRC it's about 10,000ths or so. You can research that. Finally, if the metal on that receiver is good the rollers won't bulge the sides. Early on the rollers were bulging the sides of the receiver where they lock up. That would eventually require larger rollers. That's probably not an issue anymore, however.

Have fun! .308 is expensive but one of my favorite calibers.

Rome
 
Sir_Macadoo said:
I (had to) rebuilt a century wood furniture century CETME. Check out the rear of the bolt head. If it looks like its been ground or sanded down, there's your problem - and I wouldn't shoot it anymore if I were you. Rather than using oversized rollers to address the head space, Century tended to grind down the rear of the bolt face to get the bolt gap correct, but this does nothing to fix the fact the bolt head isn't fully locked into the trunnion. kabooms ensue.
Click to expand...

I've got one of those ground bolt CETMEs, too. I got new replacement bolt parts for it, but it hasn't crawled to the top of the project list, yet. How bad was the rebuild?
 

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