Questions for the bolt action guys

frenchman

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Range day today. No pictures, sorry.
Rifle: Savage 10 FCP-SR, accustock, accutrigger, no modifications except for replacing one of the front swivels with a pic rail. Action was never removed from the stock. Rifle was last shot in 08/2018.
Range: 100 yards, no wind, 45 degrees, sunny. Shooting of a bench with a 9-13(?) inch Harris bipod and a rear bag. Strap on cheek riser. Switched to front bag later on.
Scope: Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18, MOA, reticle with subtentions.
Ammo: Gold Medal match 175, Hornady match 178, and PPU soft point 150 grain.
History: weapon system bought new in 2017 and didn't see much use. The first zero was ridiculous. Our own Allahsnackbar finally figured out that the thread protector shook loose and was screwing with accuracy.

Cold bore shot was 4"@10 o'clock. I wasn't expecting a great zero after the rifle had spent 1.5 years without a round through it, but come on! Subsequent shots were consistently 3"+ at 10:30. A 3" group at 10@ yard with match ammo is kinda not acceptable. That's not even hunting accurate in my book.
Seeing that the rifle was throwing boolitz all over the place, I, at some point, gave up chasing zero. The thread protector was removed before starting, btw.
3 weeks ago, I was zeroing my AR build at 50 with 55gr Fiocchi bulk and was shooting .5 to .75 inch groups, so, although I'm a far cry from a precision shooter, I know I'm better than what I did today.
Notes: I noticed that I couldn't get comfortable Behring the gun to save my ass from drowning. Too much of a length of pull. When I turned up the magnification and I had to move my noggin forward, it just got worse. The scope was shadowing the bejeezus out of me. The hand position wasn't exactly satisfactory either, but I could work with that.
My questions: I am considering either the MDT Oryx chassis or the XLR element. Anyone has input on those?
My bolt shows significant wear on the underside and after 300+ rounds, the action hasn't even started smoothing out. Any guesses on that?
Thanks in advance
Frenchman.
 
Range day today. No pictures, sorry.
Rifle: Savage 10 FCP-SR, accustock, accutrigger, no modifications except for replacing one of the front swivels with a pic rail. Action was never removed from the stock. Rifle was last shot in 08/2018.
Range: 100 yards, no wind, 45 degrees, sunny. Shooting of a bench with a 9-13(?) inch Harris bipod and a rear bag. Strap on cheek riser. Switched to front bag later on.
Scope: Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18, MOA, reticle with subtentions.
Ammo: Gold Medal match 175, Hornady match 178, and PPU soft point 150 grain.
History: weapon system bought new in 2017 and didn't see much use. The first zero was ridiculous. Our own Allahsnackbar finally figured out that the thread protector shook loose and was screwing with accuracy.

Cold bore shot was 4"@10 o'clock. I wasn't expecting a great zero after the rifle had spent 1.5 years without a round through it, but come on! Subsequent shots were consistently 3"+ at 10:30. A 3" group at 10@ yard with match ammo is kinda not acceptable. That's not even hunting accurate in my book.
Seeing that the rifle was throwing boolitz all over the place, I, at some point, gave up chasing zero. The thread protector was removed before starting, btw.
3 weeks ago, I was zeroing my AR build at 50 with 55gr Fiocchi bulk and was shooting .5 to .75 inch groups, so, although I'm a far cry from a precision shooter, I know I'm better than what I did today.
Notes: I noticed that I couldn't get comfortable Behring the gun to save my ass from drowning. Too much of a length of pull. When I turned up the magnification and I had to move my noggin forward, it just got worse. The scope was shadowing the bejeezus out of me. The hand position wasn't exactly satisfactory either, but I could work with that.
My questions: I am considering either the MDT Oryx chassis or the XLR element. Anyone has input on those?
My bolt shows significant wear on the underside and after 300+ rounds, the action hasn't even started smoothing out. Any guesses on that?
Thanks in advance
Frenchman.
Check your scope bases. Use an allen wrench and screw those things down as tight as you can get them. Next step is to mount a good set of rings to the base and mount your scope. Use a reticle leveler and a bore sighter to get your scope on paper. Use the ammo you will be using for fine-tuning at the range. Experiment with several types and brands. Each rifle tends to perform better with some than others.
 
there's not enough info here to comment on your precision issues. if the scope mount were loose I would expect more than 3 inch groupings. IIRC my savage 10 grouped very well with SMK 168gr projectiles. it was not the most ammo tolerant rifle. in terms of smoothness it's a savage so I would not expect it to smooth out much. i've always found their actions rough. however they're reliable, simple and cheap which is where they earn points. I had an FCP-SR and the stock was not comfortable. great for thrashing in the field that's about it.

regarding chassis options, my howa 1500 lives in an XLR and couldn't be happier with it. definitely recommend. they occasionally run sales i got my element chassis during black friday a few years back it was a screaming deal. if you're committed to the savage then definitely go for it. personally i would ditch the savage action and go with either a howa or tikka but that wasn't your question so i'll stop here.


Howa 1500 in XLR
SWFA SS 10x42
warne steel scope rings

IMG_4873.jpgIMG_4870.jpg

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100 yard groups. it loves both the 168 and 175 gr SMKs. It also likes 168gr A-max. Overall pretty ammo-tolerant rifle will group most any projectile nicely.

IMG_4939.JPGIMG_4940.JPGIMG_4941.JPGIMG_4943.JPG
 
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Check that the action screws are snug and torqued down.
After that check the scope mount and rings.

The difference in groups from the last time it was out could be from something that has settled in and has loosened.

Gold medal match is usually good for 1/2 moa or better.
Be sure to use the same ammo as the last time it was sighted in.

Check the above, clean the bore and see if that corrects those groups.

Outside air temperature may play into this as well.

Lastly we all have had days when we can't get a repeatable cheek weld or the same sight picture.
This could just be one of those days with this rifle.
 
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What 308 said. I always start with the scope screws then check the action screws. I have only used McMillan stocks so I'm no help there. But if it isn't feeling comfortable for you it isn't going to perform.
 
With a group that poor, sounds more like a scope/mount/base issue. Either something with that is lose or the optic isn’t holding zero. Or maybe even amplified with a parallax issue considering how much of a hard time you had getting comfortable behind the gun.
 
The scope and mount were properly leveled and torqued to manufacturer specs. Paralax might very well have been a problem indeed. XLR just came out with a gen3 element chassis. I might just go for that and combine it with a Luth MBA3, which would give me an option to mount a monopod. The Harris was too tall (why I switched to the front bag.)
 
If at possible find someone who is good with bolt guns. Let them shoot it if not
Start fresh , detail clean the rifle , remount the scope and base use a torque wrench , make sure there is no oil on the screws or threads and under the mounts. Make sure your stock hardware is to the correct tightness. Its amazing how just a few inlbs in torque can change or upset the entire gun.
then I would just stick with one ammo type the FGMM 175s or 168s are a very good base line. I have had enough pronlems with zero and point of impact shifts even with the “same” ammo. Find something it likes and buy as much as the same lot number you can get

if your going to switch ammo clean the barrel between changes
 
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I don't own any specific equipment in question, but my guess is it's optics and most lenses these days are crazy complex, the more expensive they are the more shit is them. I have no idea why the f*** do you need bullion little lenses, but any of them comes loose or shifts and you'd get similar effect.

canon-50-80mm-f11-optics.jpg.optimal.jpg


I can't imagine precision rifle shooting that bad, I could probably shoot any of my mosins better and I know that you are a very good shot, so that kind of narrows it down.

I'd straight up use a different scope to confirm that rifle groups as it should, may be look into the bore to see if mouse didn't make a nest there. On straight bolt rifle, it's got to be a barrel defect if scope hypothesis turns out wrong.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I decided not to put lipstick on a pig and put the whole shebang on consignment. I am building a 6.5CM AR and will use the money for better glass. I will eventually build another bolter, but will stick with he same caliber. I'm thinking starting point will be a Howa 1500 barreled action, and take it from there.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I decided not to put lipstick on a pig and put the whole shebang on consignment. I am building a 6.5CM AR and will use the money for better glass. I will eventually build another bolter, but will stick with he same caliber. I'm thinking starting point will be a Howa 1500 barreled action, and take it from there.
we used to bring problem children to the dumping grounds AKA Kittery Trading Post
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I decided not to put lipstick on a pig and put the whole shebang on consignment. I am building a 6.5CM AR and will use the money for better glass. I will eventually build another bolter, but will stick with he same caliber. I'm thinking starting point will be a Howa 1500 barreled action, and take it from there.

I think you will like the AR 6.5 project. Certainly one of my favorite builds with a good result on a relatively low budget. Here's a link to my project, covering some of the kinks and the final success:

Done! Aero M5 in 6.5 Creedmoor

I have a Leupold LRP scope on it now and have cerakoted the barrel matte black. Was shooting great to 1,000 yards before the town f-ed up Granby's range.
 
Gee, thanks. I've brought problem children home from KTP. Now I know who to blame.
Yup, i also scored several decent 22s out of the oak barrel of death. This was 30+ years ago but im sure plenty of folks are still trading in thier junkers and bent shooters to get something else.
For the record I dump 3 mini 14s there between 92-98ish.... Got what I paid for them in trade towards other guns... Also traded a PC 1911 for a citori gold trap... NotHing wrong with rhe 1911 but I think I got the better of the deal.
Few shotguns and a handful of beater 22s and pistols made the trip north also.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I decided not to put lipstick on a pig and put the whole shebang on consignment. I am building a 6.5CM AR and will use the money for better glass. I will eventually build another bolter, but will stick with he same caliber. I'm thinking starting point will be a Howa 1500 barreled action, and take it from there.

Unless the barrel was really ephed up, I still think it had to do with the optic. I've had an optic work great for me for a couple of years and then let go. Wouldn't hold zero any longer. I think you've given up too fast. It doesn't take much to figure out if it was optics related. If it isn't, then yeah, I'd ditch the rifle too.
 
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