peterk123
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Rocksett
- Thread starter peterk123
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Is "Rocksett™ Muzzle Adhesive" any different from regular Rocksett other than being twice as expensive?
Rocksett™ 1oz Muzzle Adhesive
The all-purpose engineering adhesive ceramic cement. Locks, Seals & Bonds - Nuts, Screws, Shafts, Keys, Splines, Pipes, Flanges, etc. INCREDIBLE TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE (-350°F) up to 2,015°F BONDS CERAMIC, GLASS, METALS...EVEN KEYLESS SURFACES. Rocksett ideal for attaching muzzle devices...
www.flexbar.com
FalArAk
NES Member
Good for muzzle devices, not OAL if trying to get to 16".
Haven’t used this (haven’t heard of this)
On my rifles (AR or bolt) using a crush washer I have never had a muzzle device loosen up.
On my stainless barrel on PRS competition rifle I have a little bastard brake. That one times with a jam nut, and it came loose on first two trips to range. I used a drop of non permanent lock tite (same as I use on scope rings) on it and it hasn’t moved since (1,200 + rounds)
On my rifles (AR or bolt) using a crush washer I have never had a muzzle device loosen up.
On my stainless barrel on PRS competition rifle I have a little bastard brake. That one times with a jam nut, and it came loose on first two trips to range. I used a drop of non permanent lock tite (same as I use on scope rings) on it and it hasn’t moved since (1,200 + rounds)
Rocksett works wonders, both the standard stuff and the muzzle device stuff. Both require a long, overnight soak in water. And in many instances, I've still had to apply a torch to it.
I would just add to clarify that the soak in water is required to remove the device, not to install it. Just in case anyone is reading this and doesn’t know that.
But I’d also add that I’ve had luck removing it with impact as an alternative to soaking. It seems very resistant to torque, but assisting the torquing with impact seems to break it free.
Some manufacturers do not require rocksett at all. I would just use what the mfg of your muzzle device recommends and torque it to spec. The one you linked looks similar to the regular one, so use whichever if manual calls for it.
I also would probably get some alignment rods. Cheap insurance for any install, but since your local gunsmith will be threading some of your barrels - it makes even more sense.
Dennis in MA
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I was gonna say the chicks from Rocksette were kinda hot, but that was one chick and she was sorta mannish. The chicks I was thinking of were in Human League. And looking back, not THAT great. I guess I was a sucker for all that makeup back then. LOL
Asaltweapon
NES Member
The Rockset that came with my adapters was mostly very thick non-spreadable paste so I used nothing.
My YHM can came with instructions to NOT use anything like Rockset on it. The only time I had an issue was when I let a friend I was shooting with, transfer it to his rifle, and luckily caught that is was loosening, in time, as the clown had used anti-seize on his adaptor!
Anti-seize won't hurt IF muzzle device is torqued properly. Did you ask your friend how did he tighten it?
On the other hand, rocksett can probably achieve solid lock at lower Ft/lb value compared to going in dry or with anti-seize. If you overtighten, it will constrict the barrel and affect accuracy.
Wonder why that is? Rocksett doesn't hurt anything. Rocksett the YHM phantom or SRX QD mount to barrel. Rocksett the HUB mount to the can. No way it will ever get loose when shooting and you can always still take it off after a water soak.
CrackPot
NES Member
Since heat cures rocksett, torching after a soak is questionable. It might help because you get a different coefficient of expansion on the barrel and device so it helps break the bond.
If soaking does not work, what you need is shock or you just might need more force. We use a 3ft pipe to extend the wrench and that is almost always enough force. But a better approach is to first apply force and strike with a hammer to shock and break the bonds of the rocksett.
Pure force has been proven to rip the threaded portion of the barrel off the rest of the barrel with a factory installed device that "did not have rocksett" but did (thanks noveske). So I do not go the pure force route before first shocking and knowing that I have at least partially broken the bonds of the adhesive (heat to loctite or water for rocksett)
But no, I would never apply heat to something with rocksett for removal as it does the exact opposite of what you want. I apply heat to rocksett to cure it quickly so that the gun can go home immediately or be shot immediately.
Probably because at proper Ft/lb torque muzzle device is staying put anyway, so nothing is needed. If you go for lower Ft/lb with rocksett, muzzle device can possibly walk if rocksett went bad before application, you did not clean threads properly, you did not let it cure it, etc. Baffle strike or can launched downrange is a PITA for all involved.
Dead Air guy in the video says he does not use it, but you can if you want.
Didn't ask him, other than if he read YHM's instructions. They guy is a dope, one of those guys you can't tell anything too. Brought a 1000 rounds of 300blk reloads he bought, wouldn't feed right in either rifle, I took some home and mic ed them for OAL. .006 too long...tell him that, and hey says "no, I need a light weight bolt carrier.
I don't shoot with him anymore.
peterk123
NES Member
Just a couple small drops correct?
I just picked up a magpul bev vice block so I can safely work on the upper. Pretty slick. I gotta voice my amazement again regarding the AR design. I had to remove the bolt and firing pin to use the block. Christ, what a simple design.... again. Every time I take something apart on this gun I'm just amazed how well it is thought out.
I just picked up a magpul bev vice block so I can safely work on the upper. Pretty slick. I gotta voice my amazement again regarding the AR design. I had to remove the bolt and firing pin to use the block. Christ, what a simple design.... again. Every time I take something apart on this gun I'm just amazed how well it is thought out.
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They prefer leather with a ball gag i thought
