Ruger LCR .357

Cluster F

Cluster F

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So as I await funds to buy a Carry firearm I am milling over some choices. I had a Ruger LCR .38 an loved it accept the grips were to tacky but I know they make the boot grip. Along with the pistol choices I wana check out I am thinking about the LCR in .357. I shot the .38 real well and think I could handle it. I also like the front sights ability to be chaned. I feel like nowadays it's taboo to want to carry a revolver for ccw haha.
 
I love my lcr-357. I used to always carry a full size 1911, but as time went on I found I was leaving it at home more and more often. Ever since I picked up the lcr-357 I have always had a firearm on me (where legal). I love that I can just throw it in my front pocket (in a Mikka pocket holster) when on the go. I need the Hogue grip on it when firing heavy 357 loads though. The boot grip simply does not provide enough shock protection for my palms otherwise
 
Did you find the grip to grippy on clothing causing it to print? My lcr .38 grip seem real tacky. Now u just need to find one in .357 Gona be the hard part.
 
There are several huge advantages to a revolver for CCW. Not taboo. I have J frame smiths as well as an LCR in .357 and I like them both.
 
Cluster F said:
Did you find the grip to grippy on clothing causing it to print? My lcr .38 grip seem real tacky. Now u just need to find one in .357 Gona be the hard part.
Click to expand...

I pocket carry the lcr in a pocket holster and have never had a printing issue. When I'm carrying IWB I opt for a larger firearm such as one of my 1911s or my 686+. There are other grip options out there for the lcr if you find the Hogue grip doesn't work for you though. I also don't suspect you should have any trouble finding one in 357. I always see them everywhere. And if you can't find one they're ALWAYS on gunbroker
 
I just picked up a LCR in .357 last week. I like it a lot, but I don't like the extremely limited range I can effectively hit with a snub. It may just be me, but I can barely get in paper beyond 15 feet.

I still like it for pocket carry and it would probably work well for home defense or a backup gun. If I were going anywhere remotely dangerous I would carry something with a longer barrel and more capacity.
 
Focus on your technique. I have no trouble getting all on paper with the LCR @ 50 feet and most will be in the black. I do not consider myself a crack shot. You really have to bear down with a snubbie.
 
Save your money and stay with the 38. The 38 lcr with the gold dot 135g +p is about as good a stopper as you need. Accuracy, sufficient penetration and faster follow up shots.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Shooting 357 from 2 inch light weight revolvers isn't the best choice. If you are committed to the 357 I would suggest the Ruger sp101 2/3 inch and shoot mid power rounds like remington golden saber or gold dot 135g 357.


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I was looking at a S&W 640 .357 pro series this dealer had at the gun show today. Real nice, J frame stainless .357 with a nice out of the box trigger. Hard to find though from what I hear.
 
In God We Trust said:
I just picked up a LCR in .357 last week. I like it a lot, but I don't like the extremely limited range I can effectively hit with a snub. It may just be me, but I can barely get in paper beyond 15 feet.

I still like it for pocket carry and it would probably work well for home defense or a backup gun. If I were going anywhere remotely dangerous I would carry something with a longer barrel and more capacity.
Click to expand...

Your problem is typical of people who are new to shooting DA revolvers. Even if you have tens of thousands of rounds down range with a semi-auto.

The snub nosed revolver is about the hardest gun to shoot well you could buy. But when you get a hang of it, its very effective.

The crazy thing is that even the smallest revolver has exceptional mechanical accuracy. Bench rested, with a CT laser, my 340 J frame can group as well as my 686. However, practical accuracy when shooting quickly is not even close to the 686. Several things work against you:

1) short sight radius.
2) small grip that doesn't let you use your pinky (how do you spell pinky?) finger
3) relatively round grip that does not resist rolling.
4) stiff trigger pull combined with the round and short grip means the gun tends to rotate when you squeeze the trigger if your squeeze is not perfect. (smooth, gentle, and straight back)

In fact, developing a good trigger squeeze is the KEY requirement in learning to shoot a little revolver well.

The good news is that you can practice this as well at home as you can at the range. Dry firing is a great exercise to develop a good squeeze.
A laser of some kind is also useful because it magnified movement caused by your trigger squeeze.

Don
 
dcmdon said:
Your problem is typical of people who are new to shooting DA revolvers. Even if you have tens of thousands of rounds down range with a semi-auto.

The snub nosed revolver is about the hardest gun to shoot well you could buy. But when you get a hang of it, its very effective.

The crazy thing is that even the smallest revolver has exceptional mechanical accuracy. Bench rested, with a CT laser, my 340 J frame can group as well as my 686. However, practical accuracy when shooting quickly is not even close to the 686. Several things work against you:

1) short sight radius.
2) small grip that doesn't let you use your pinky (how do you spell pinky?) finger
3) relatively round grip that does not resist rolling.
4) stiff trigger pull combined with the round and short grip means the gun tends to rotate when you squeeze the trigger if your squeeze is not perfect. (smooth, gentle, and straight back)

In fact, developing a good trigger squeeze is the KEY requirement in learning to shoot a little revolver well.

The good news is that you can practice this as well at home as you can at the range. Dry firing is a great exercise to develop a good squeeze.
A laser of some kind is also useful because it magnified movement caused by your trigger squeeze.

Don
Click to expand...

Great advice here on snubs. I know a few guys that bought j frames and after one outing at the range said they were junk because they could not get a tight group. My opinion is a little practice with a snub .38 or even .357 goes a long way. I am very proficient with my sp101 with .357 mag loads as well as my wifes j frame 642 with plus P .38 loads. It took 3 or four trips to the range but eventually I got to the point where I can hit black on an NRA pistol target at 25 feet firing rapidly.......it will do what it is designed to do in my hands! And now I have two handguns that I can VERY easily conceal carry. Too many guys I think try a snub and imediately say they are junk.......you gotta practice. And practice at the range is more than half the fun!

I may get flamed for this comment but additionally I think snub revolvers are just plain cool!
 
A couple of other things.

The 642 PRO or 442 PRO are cut for moon clips. If you don't know what a moon clip is, google it. Its about the fastest way to reload a revolver known to man. With either of these guns, the moon clips go a long way towards mitigating the 5 shot limitation.

The Pro models only cost about $30 more than the standard versions and retain the ability to use individual rounds if you don't want to use moon clips.

Don
 
Cluster F said:
With moon clips can't you not use the revolver without them ? I know what mood clips are.
Click to expand...

Most revolvers you can, as long as you're using rimmed rounds. You might have headspace issues even when shooting a rimmed round without the clips. Test to make sure.

When using rimless rounds without the moon clips, some revolvers will still headspace them properly, but you'll be poking those suckers out with a stick.
 
Correct.

If you cut a revolver meant for rimmed cartridges for moon clips, the cases can still headspace on the rim around the outside of the cylinder. So shooting 38s out of the 640 Pro without moons is fine.

If you have something like a 10mm revolver like the 610, you can shoot it without moon clips and it will headspace on the mouth, but like you said, you have to poke the brass out with a stick.

However, if you want to shoot a shorter round through it like a .40 S&W, you need moon clips, otherwise the .40s will go into the cylinder too far.
 
Had a conversation with a co-worker today.
She and her hubby have matching Ruger LCR 357. Hubby's wheel shattered while at the range.
Lucky to still have all his fingers...

Ruger blames the loads and wants to give them pennies on the dollar.
Factory Geco loads, as seen in pic #1.
I call BS.
Factory should give 100% replacement. Any help from our fine forum members?

LCR 357.jpg LCR 357 2.jpg
 
bhmax16 said:
I love my lcr-357. I used to always carry a full size 1911, but as time went on I found I was leaving it at home more and more often. Ever since I picked up the lcr-357 I have always had a firearm on me (where legal). I love that I can just throw it in my front pocket (in a Mikka pocket holster) when on the go. I need the Hogue grip on it when firing heavy 357 loads though. The boot grip simply does not provide enough shock protection for my palms otherwise
Click to expand...

Great gun & great holster!

I do prefer the 38 version & carry the RUGER ARX 38 bullets in it.

They are light, accurate and the recoil in the LCR is mild.

http://ruger.com/micros/ammo/index.html?r=y

https://mikaspocketholsters.com/shop/

Mikas_Round_Pocket_Holsters_front_Black.jpg
 
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