S&W 1911, slide doesn't fully close sometimes

[hminsky]

I have this new S&W 1911, and when firing several magazines, a number of times the slide didn't fully close as it scooped up a new cartridge from the magazine. This happened both when I released the slide manually, as well as when firing. A slight push on the back of the slide brings it into battery.

I am firing Remington UMC FMJ ammo. The magazines are Wilson.

Any suggestions?

 

[M1911]

1) is the gun clean and lubed? I've found UMC ammo to be very dirty. Does it happen with different ammo? How many rounds through the gun?

2) is the recoil spring new?

3) check extractor tension -- nevermind on this, I forgot that the S&W has an external extractor, so this probably isn't an issue.

4) check breech face -- does it need to be polished?

5) check feed ramp -- does it need to be polished?

 

[Cross-X]

The first thing I'd recommend replacing is the slide's recoil spring. I believe the replacement interval for this part is when you've fired about 2k rounds.

 

[hminsky]

1) is the gun clean and lubed? I've found UMC ammo to be very dirty. Does it happen with different ammo? How many rounds through the gun?

2) is the recoil spring new?

3) check extractor tension

4) check breech face -- does it need to be polished?

5) check feed ramp -- does it need to be polished?

What is the procedure for polishing these surfaces?

 

[hminsky]

The first thing I'd recommend replacing is the slide's recoil spring. I believe the replacement interval for this part is when you've fired about 2k rounds.

It's used, so I don't know how many rounds through it. I'll try that.

The breech face is not totally smooth either, there is faint kind of mark on it.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

5) check feed ramp -- does it need to be polished?

1. Buy dremel
2. Polish feed ramp
3. Notice that it does not fix problem
4. Visit experienced gunsmith who tells you that you cut too much away from the frame and that a correct polish is not a smooth connection between frame an bbl when barrel tilts down
5. Buy new gun
6. Repeat process at step #2 (since you can re-use the dremel to ruin another gun)

 

[Lugnut]

Try different ammo and mags. I've had no problems with good ball ammo. Used- it could be anything. Recoil spings are cheap.

 

[M1911]

The only good dremel is one that has it's cord cut off...

I polish them with 600 grit sandpaper, oil, and my finger. Do NOT use power tools.

But start with 1) cleaning, 2) new recoil spring, and 3) different ammo. Only if that doesn't work should you resort to a very mild polishing. Anything more than that and I would take it to a gunsmith.

 

[JimB]

dremel tools

you could use a dremel tool on slow speed with a cotton attachment
and some polisiing rouge "for poloshing" and do just fine.

if you use a cutting rouge you will remove material.

If your confused by the above go see a gunsmith.

JimB

 

[Pilgrim]

try a different magazine. The feed lips are the things that are most easily damaged.

Start with the easy stuff first.

 

[Supermoto]

Make sure you aren't dragging your thumbs on the slide, if you use a high thumbs grip.

Clean and oil the gun, don't use grease in the cold weather. Make sure the area behing the extractor hook is clean of junk

Try different ammo. I have seen other 1911 choke on UMC but run 100% on winchenster white box

 

[Big_Red]

I had a problem like that with my Walther P99. A good cleaning and a lube job corrected it.

 

[hminsky]

Make sure you aren't dragging your thumbs on the slide, if you use a high thumbs grip.

Clean and oil the gun, don't use grease in the cold weather. Make sure the area behing the extractor hook is clean of junk

Try different ammo. I have seen other 1911 choke on UMC but run 100% on winchenster white box

I did use some grease on the slide, and I've been shooting it outdoors. I'll clean that out and use oil instead.

I called S&W and they're sending a replacement recoil spring.

One other thing, the edge of the trigger on this gun is sharp like a knife. I've seen a number of triggers like this, it seems to be in style. What's up with that? I've got a little piece of duct tape over it now to pad it.

 

[Moderator]

I had this problem with my S&W 1911 using SWC's. I polished the ramp and replaced the recoils spring and now it runs way smooth.

 

[Greg Derr]

Grease on any semo auto is a bad idea. Grease holds particles in suspension and allows them to slow the action down. Try a lightweight oil and apply more often,Miltec or FP-10, or Marvel Oil are soem good lightweight oils. Also anytime you switch ammo brands or types, clean the barrel and chamber thoroughly with a bronze brush and cleaner. If you have feed issues try a touch of oil on the top of the first round in a mag.

Lots of folks get right to the feed ramp with the idea that it can cause a round to hang up. Try thinking of the force the slide is putting on a round going into battery. Better yet think about your finger getting in there. It is very hard to hand a round on the feed ramp. If anything it gets caught on the barrel as a result of a poorly cut ramp or barrel throat.
Mags and the mags lips cause most FTF's. There are mags for ball and for wadcutter which release the round at different angles and periods in the cycle of the gun.

Ammo can also be an issue-even factory ammo. Test it. Remove the barrel and try dropping each round one at a time in the barrel to see if they drop freely and seat to the top of the hood. This is more for lead ammo, but I have seen out of spec. factory ammo.

Good luck, Greg

 

[HOPHEAD]

I have two SW1911s and 10 Wilson Combat 47D magazines. I also shoot Remington UMC ammo.

Your problem is that the magazines aren't broken in yet. You'll get failure to feeds on the last round and the failure with the slide not full close until the Wilson mags break in.

The solution is easy. Put a round in the chamber and leave each fully loaded mag in the gun for 24 - 48 hours. This will break in the spring and solve the problem you are having.