S&W 617 10 shot weird take-up?

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One of my first guns with a S&W 617 6 inch 6 shot revolver. For years I have lusted for a 4" 617 to match my 681 and 686. Finally found one, but it was the 10 shot model. Price was fair so I picked it up today. Took it to the range and it feels really weird in double action mode. I can clearly feel in double action mode where the cylinder is rotated, it stops, but the hammer keeps traveling back to full cock. I assume this is normal?

Anyone have a 4" 6 shot they would consider trading?

Chris
 
I had a 10 shot 617 - I hated the action, but couldn't describe exactly why. Maybe that had something to do with it
Been searching for an older'broken in' model ever since, but haven't found one either.
 
One of my first guns with a S&W 617 6 inch 6 shot revolver. For years I have lusted for a 4" 617 to match my 681 and 686. Finally found one, but it was the 10 shot model. Price was fair so I picked it up today. Took it to the range and it feels really weird in double action mode. I can clearly feel in double action mode where the cylinder is rotated, it stops, but the hammer keeps traveling back to full cock. I assume this is normal?

Anyone have a 4" 6 shot they would consider trading?

Chris

This is probably due to the fact that the cylinder doesn't rotate much to index the next chamber on a ten shot revolver (1/10 of a turn) but the hammer must still be brought to full cock. I would just shoot the gun until I got used to it. I know some top revolver shooters that use the ten shot model.
 
One of my first guns with a S&W 617 6 inch 6 shot revolver. For years I have lusted for a 4" 617 to match my 681 and 686. Finally found one, but it was the 10 shot model. Price was fair so I picked it up today. Took it to the range and it feels really weird in double action mode. I can clearly feel in double action mode where the cylinder is rotated, it stops, but the hammer keeps traveling back to full cock. I assume this is normal?

Anyone have a 4" 6 shot they would consider trading?

Chris

I have a 10-shot 617 and it does what you describe. Double action is not the best, but single is pretty decent. It's an ideal gun for introducing people to shooting, but I can't say I enjoy it much myself.
 
This is probably due to the fact that the cylinder doesn't rotate much to index the next chamber on a ten shot revolver (1/10 of a turn) but the hammer must still be brought to full cock. I would just shoot the gun until I got used to it. I know some top revolver shooters that use the ten shot model.

That's exactly it. In mine when the pull lightens up the cylinder has rotated and the next little movement is the hammer releasing. It is as accurate, maybe even more so, than my 41.
 
Good to hear there isn't something wrong with my gun. I find it funny that no one mentioned on the web how much the double action trigger pull sucks with the 10 shot cylinder. My 6 shot model is buttery smooth like my 686 and 681. You guys hit all my objectives on the head. I bought this to have a lighter alternative for new shooters as my 6" 617 is too heavy for metrosexuals and women. Since I shoot primarily single action, it doesn't bother me, it just feels weird. First time out with the gun I was shooting a quarter-sized ragged hole at 50 feet.

Anyone try to buy a cylinder and assorted parts and try to swap them out?

Chris
 
You're probably better off selling your 617 and buying exactly what you want, rather than re-cylindering the gun. Probably not worth the time and expense, and it could hurt resale value.

There is strong demand for. 22LR revolvers, you shouldn't have trouble selling it. There was a used 617 for $600 at Four Seasons last week, and it only lasted a couple days.
 
Is it a newer one or a pre lock? Personaly get used to it. The 10 shot 617 is a great gun that will one of the last guns I would ever get rid of just due to the fun factor and cheep ammo
Dave
 
There is strong demand for. 22LR revolvers, you shouldn't have trouble selling it. There was a used 617 for $600 at Four Seasons last week, and it only lasted a couple days.

Haha, that is the one I bought.

From what I have read, most cylinders drop right in, the real fitting is with the hand to adjust the timing. This means I could swap back the old cylinder at any time.

I will shoot it a little more and see if I get used to it. I was hoping for a cheap to shoot, similar feeling handgun to my 681. The 10 shot certainly isn't.

It has the lock unlike my 6" version that is a no dash model.

Chris
 
Good to hear there isn't something wrong with my gun. I find it funny that no one mentioned on the web how much the double action trigger pull sucks with the 10 shot cylinder. My 6 shot model is buttery smooth like my 686 and 681. You guys hit all my objectives on the head. I bought this to have a lighter alternative for new shooters as my 6" 617 is too heavy for metrosexuals and women. Since I shoot primarily single action, it doesn't bother me, it just feels weird. First time out with the gun I was shooting a quarter-sized ragged hole at 50 feet.

Anyone try to buy a cylinder and assorted parts and try to swap them out?

Chris

Not too expensive to have s&w change it. I had one changed the other way. 6 to 10. The change involves the cylinder and the hand.

I am looking for a used 10 shot so keep me in mind.
 
Not too expensive to have s&w change it. I had one changed the other way. 6 to 10. The change involves the cylinder and the hand.

I am looking for a used 10 shot so keep me in mind.

Do you want to sell your old 6 shot cylinder?

Chris
 
All S&W DA revolver triggers will continue to move some distance after the "bolt" (a/k/a "cylinder stop") drops into its slot in the cylinder. The reason for this is that timing of the revolver is a function of tension (exerted by the hand upon the star) attempting to continue rotating the cylinder even after the bolt is in the slot, so that final timing is a function of following side of the slot against the leading side of the bolt, with zero tolerance.

Back in the day, PPC shooters used this sensation to stage the DA trigger for effectively a SA release.
 
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Ten shot S&W 22s suck pretty bad and can actually be hazardous to your health. As a humanitarian jesture, I will take this engine of destruction off your hands free of charge.
 
Thank you for your kind generosity!

Actually I want one bad. Last winter I decided this would be a great gun for indoor practice. No big deal, just another 22. Then I saw the price. I forgot that I was buying a full sized SS S&W revolver, not just "another 22". Eventually I will find one at a "reaonable" price (steal). Until then I can only watch and wait.
 
Actually I want one bad. Last winter I decided this would be a great gun for indoor practice. No big deal, just another 22. Then I saw the price. I forgot that I was buying a full sized SS S&W revolver, not just "another 22". Eventually I will find one at a "reaonable" price (steal). Until then I can only watch and wait.

Expect to spend at least $600 and if your anal as I am about the ugly lock hole in the side then expect to pay more for a pre-lock.
Dave
 
Expect to spend at least $600 and if your anal as I am about the ugly lock hole in the side then expect to pay more for a pre-lock.
Dave

Dave:

Don't rule out dumb luck! I was at Four Seasons about 1.5 years ago looking for a 617 and they just took in on consignment a 617 no dash 6" 6 shot, combat stocks, full target hammer and trigger. I got the, "hold on a sec, I think I may have something for you in back." I think I paid $499 for it.

My real point was I went to MRA today and ran through 200 rounds of ammo, certainly getting used to the strange takeup and shooting it single action is very smooth.

Chris
 
Chris,
My wife is looking for a S&W 4" 617. If you want to sell yours PM me. Meanwhile, we keep watching fs used guns. Just missed one...
Woods
 
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