Sharpening a Kukri

[GaryO]

Does anyone have any experience putting a good edge on a Kukri? The tough part of the blade is the last 3-4" close to the handle. I can't figure out how to use a stone on the curved edge.

 

[Mike-Mike]

give it to me. when you get it back it will be sharp.

 

[stixnstones]

If you have the traditional chakmak that comes with it, use that. The chakmak is the small unsharpened "knife" that comes with the khukri. The other one is the karda. That is a knife.

Or you could use sandpaper/emery cloth backed with a narrow block of wood. I'd probably rip a 1 x 4 x 3/4 strip of oak or maple as the block, use the 3/4" side to contact the blade and start at 100 grit and adjust based on how the job is going. Touch up with the chakmak.

 

[Raoul Duke]

Give it to Mike Mike. When you get it back, it will be sharp.

 

[Mike-Mike]

Give it to Mike Mike. When you get it back, it will be sharp.

+1---- A smart man

 

[livnreklis]

My girlfriend bought me a original 1890's era Kukri last year. Still had a nice edge on it to.

 

[Tiktock]

Once mike is done, you could always give it to me and I could make it REALLY sharp

I use one of these:

A Kuk doesn't necessarily need a shaving sharp edge, though...since its mainly a chopping tool you'd be best to put a fully convex edge on it. Let me know if you want details on how to do this, but heres a general idea:

 

[Mike-Mike]

I use one of those when I want to change an angle on a blade or TRUE an angle that has been inadvertently modified due to improper sharpening. Other than that I mostly sharpen by hand with diamonds and ceramic.

As my farther would say " Those are for people that don't know how to sharpen a knife"

Once mike is done, you could always give it to me and I could make it REALLY sharp

I use one of these:

A Kuk doesn't necessarily need a shaving sharp edge, though...since its mainly a chopping tool you'd be best to put a fully convex edge on it. Let me know if you want details on how to do this, but heres a general idea:

 

[Tiktock]

As my farther would say " Those are for people that don't know how to sharpen a knife"

I'll try not to be offended by that. Lots of people think they know how to sharpen a knife but can rarely "put out" when it comes to actually producing a superior edge than what can be achieved with rough grit stones or mid-grade ceramics or a lansky.

Probably the wrong place for this, though, as most Kuks are made of steel that barely qualifies as blade steel and benefit more from reprofiling of the bevels and installation of a true convex edge than a simple sharpening which just increases the blade thickness behind the edge. A dull kuk with a good blade geometry will outperform a shaving sharp kuk 99% of the time.

 

[Mike-Mike]

I'll try not to be offended by that. Lots of people think they know how to sharpen a knife but can rarely "put out" when it comes to actually producing a superior edge than what can be achieved with rough grit stones or mid-grade ceramics or a lansky.

Probably the wrong place for this, though, as most Kuks are made of steel that barely qualifies as blade steel and benefit more from reprofiling of the bevels and installation of a true convex edge than a simple sharpening which just increases the blade thickness behind the edge. A dull kuk with a good blade geometry will outperform a shaving sharp kuk 99% of the time.

I was not trying to be offensive at all, I am sure that you are more than capable of putting out a great edge.

I agree with you 100% in regard to the Kuk and your method in which to sharpen.. The steel is usually (relatively soft) And easy to sharpen and edge geometry is key. Many novices tend to want to see a shaving edge on a sharpened tool and we both know why that is not always the best option. As far as convex edges I have used a slack belt / cardboard backed sand paper and other options to create a desired curve.

The problem with the Lansky is that the angle actually varies depending how far away from the Clamp you are. This can be a problem on a large knife. The length of the guide rod to the edge of the blade changes and therefore changes the angle. If I was to use one of those on a kuk I would use multiple clamp points. That said i would only use one of those for an initial sharpening and do touch ups by hand.. Ok now that I bored everyone .. sorry..

 

[Tiktock]

.

The problem with the Lansky is that the angle actually varies depending how far away from the Clamp you are. This can be a problem on a large knife. The length of the guide rod to the edge of the blade changes and therefore changes the angle. If I was to use one of those on a kuk I would use multiple clamp points. That said i would only use one of those for an initial sharpening and do touch ups by hand.. Ok now that I bored everyone .. sorry..

Yeah Lanskys are great for pocket knives, but I've always felt that they are overpriced pieces of junk. The Edgepro, on the other hand, does not suffer those same faults and excels on larger knives since the device is not clamped to the blade. The 3000 grit waterstone polishing tapes really put out absurd edges.

The nice thing about doing things by hand is that its impossible to do a proper V-bevel with human hands, so all edges end up being convex to a certain degree.

 

[Mike-Mike]

Yeah Lanskys are great for pocket knives, but I've always felt that they are overpriced pieces of junk. The Edgepro, on the other hand, does not suffer those same faults and excels on larger knives since the device is not clamped to the blade. The 3000 grit waterstone polishing tapes really put out absurd edges.

The nice thing about doing things by hand is that its impossible to do a proper V-bevel with human hands, so all edges end up being convex to a certain degree.

Right on. I am in the industry as far as distribution of cutlery etc. I enjoy sharpening knives. All my friends / customers etc. just give me there knives and when I give it back its sharp. Thats why I made that comment. Raoul Duke is a customer of mine as well and that probably why he posted that.

Now a question for you. When you are at a friends house and try to cut a tomato with there knife do you:

A - Offer to sharpen them.
B - Yell at them for having knives that are equally as sharp on the back as they are in the front.
C- reach in you pocket and use your knife when they are not looking.

 

[Tiktock]

Right on. I am in the industry as far as distribution of cutlery etc. I enjoy sharpening knives. All my friends / customers etc. just give me there knives and when I give it back its sharp. Thats why I made that comment. Raoul Duke is a customer of mine as well and that probably why he posted that.

Now a question for you. When you are at a friends house and try to cut a tomato with there knife do you:

A - Offer to sharpen them.
B - Yell at them for having knives that are equally as sharp on the back as they are in the front.
C- reach in you pocket and use your knife when they are not looking.

99% of my friends don't have kitchen knives that are high enough in quality to even waste my time on. The belts/stones i'd use to sharpen them are worth more than the knives they are using. Most low-end kitchen knives aren't worth anything more than a low-end machine sharpener like the kinds on the back of can openers

I usually yell at them and explain how dangerous it is to have dull knives, but stop short of becoming their knife sharpening service

My brother, however, has some very nice san-mai steel kitchen knives. I will sharpen those properly anytime he needs.

I keep meaning to make myself a set of kitchen knives, but cant justify making a few thousand dollars in knives and not selling them

BTW do you get dealer discounts on Chris Reeve knives?

 

[Mike-Mike]

99% of my friends don't have kitchen knives that are high enough in quality to even waste my time on. The belts/stones i'd use to sharpen them are worth more than the knives they are using. Most low-end kitchen knives aren't worth anything more than a low-end machine sharpener like the kinds on the back of can openers

I usually yell at them and explain how dangerous it is to have dull knives, but stop short of becoming their knife sharpening service

My brother, however, has some very nice san-mai steel kitchen knives. I will sharpen those properly anytime he needs.

I keep meaning to make myself a set of kitchen knives, but cant justify making a few thousand dollars in knives and not selling them

BTW do you get dealer discounts on Chris Reeve knives?

Yes I do.

 

[Adam_MA]

Sharpening knives is some what of a hobby of mine. It's fun to always try to get to that next level of sharp. As I shave with a straight razor, keeping a perfect edge is a necessity, not a luxury. I have stones that go all the way up to 16,000 grit, and put them all to use while honing a razor. I do it all by hand, I don't have one of the jigs but it's something that I think would be cool to have. What one do you think is the best bang for the buck?

 

[Tiktock]

Sharpening knives is some what of a hobby of mine. It's fun to always try to get to that next level of sharp. As I shave with a straight razor, keeping a perfect edge is a necessity, not a luxury. I have stones that go all the way up to 16,000 grit, and put them all to use while honing a razor. I do it all by hand, I don't have one of the jigs but it's something that I think would be cool to have. What one do you think is the best bang for the buck?

Adam,
I am not sure if there are different methods for sharpening straight razors as they are such a specific tool...

But for sharpening systems, the standard are lansky systems...many different options but i've never really been happy with them as i'm mainly sharpening from a blank edge rather than re-sharpening a knife.

Among knife nuts and knifemakers, Edgepro systems are universally regarded as the end-all-be-all of sharpeners. I've yet to see anyone or anything that can put as perfect an edge on a knife as that system. Many "professional" sharpening services are simply using those systems.

That being said, not everyone has $300 to throw at a sharpener unless they have very nice knives, sharpen for a hobby/side job, or are making and selling knives.

 

[Mike-Mike]

Tiktock has given you some great advice. But I also want you to know that you don't need any expensive equipment to maintain and keep sharp your knives. You may need a bit of training. Some of the more complex pieces of equipment simply remove human error. If you are trying to keep kitchen knives and pocket knives sharp you can do thins with minimal materials. Let me know what you decide on and I will give you a great price..

good luck,

-Mike

 

[doobie]

I use one of those when I want to change an angle on a blade or TRUE an angle that has been inadvertently modified due to improper sharpening. Other than that I mostly sharpen by hand with diamonds and ceramic.

As my farther would say " Those are for people that don't know how to sharpen a knife"

When are you providing knife sharpening lessons for NESers?

 

[Mike-Mike]

As soon as Tiktock provides knife making lessons..... Honestly anyone looking to learn I will help or there are plenty of good books on the subject. Grab a dull knife and go to work. Then try a quality knife of a different steel and you will see a big difference. There are many methods. I use different methods for many of my knives and find that some work alot better than others.

 

[Tiktock]

Anyone who wants to start learning how to make knives let me know. There is a spring Hammer-in down in New Bedford coming this April, and there will be demos on griding, blacksmithing, sheathmaking as well as the guy from www.theperfectedge.com doing sharpening, custom armor makers etc etc. I think I may do a demo on differential japanese heat treating.

We also do informal cutting competitons where you first shave hair, then ink off pages, then chop 2X4s for time, cleave tin caps and rope, and finish with hair shaving again without sharpening. Usually it must be your own knife as its a test of heat tratment, edge geometry and technique....but anyone is welcome to give some of the events a shot.

The guy who runs it limits it to around 40, but im sure I can squeeze some people in as guests. Every person who attends would have the oppurtunity to forge some damascus steel and take it home, as well.

 

[Adam_MA]

Tiktock has given you some great advice. But I also want you to know that you don't need any expensive equipment to maintain and keep sharp your knives.

Honestly, it's not that I think I "need" a sharpening system. I do quite a good job as it is, and hell I already have hundreds and hundreds of dollars tied up in my stones. I guess I'm looking for maybe something that would be good for putting an edge back, possibly putting an edge on a blank, and take less time than soaking, lapping, then drying my existing stones. Also, with the precise edge I have to maintain on my razors, it always stays in the back of my mind when I'm using my expensive stones on anything but a razor. That being the case, I hardly ever use those stones for anything but razors, and that usually leaves me using my oil stone, and DMT, and those lack the performance and polish I'd like to get.

 

[M1911]

I understand the criticisms of the Lansky system. It certainly isn't great. I know the edges I'm getting from them are fair at best. But it works far better than anything else I've tried and the cost is modest. I'm sure there are folks who can get a great edge just using stones. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them.

One of these days I'll spring for an Edgepro.

 

[Tiktock]

Honestly, it's not that I think I "need" a sharpening system. I do quite a good job as it is, and hell I already have hundreds and hundreds of dollars tied up in my stones. I guess I'm looking for maybe something that would be good for putting an edge back, possibly putting an edge on a blank, and take less time than soaking, lapping, then drying my existing stones. Also, with the precise edge I have to maintain on my razors, it always stays in the back of my mind when I'm using my expensive stones on anything but a razor. That being the case, I hardly ever use those stones for anything but razors, and that usually leaves me using my oil stone, and DMT, and those lack the performance and polish I'd like to get.

I hear ya. For the record, the edgepro uses waterstones, so they do get dished out and need to be lapped occasionally and do require water. They are cheap enough you can just get another, though. I havent had to lap or replace one yet other than the 120 grit, which i use to really hog away metal on unsharpened blades. For the high grits, it uses polishing tapes that are cheap and easy. I think they go up to 7,000 grit, after which you could use things like newspaper to polish because you'd be getting into the higher ends of polish where the clays in paper would be more coarse than the stones

I can bring the system to a shoot this spring if you want to check it out!

Heres a cool video of the kinds of edges it puts out. This is done with a 15" long bowie knife with a 1/4" thick blade. Its a single piece of paper rolled with a 1/2" overlap. The tube is placed on the counter and severed by the knife without knocking over the bottom of the tube. Its MUCH harder than it looks. You need perfect technique, solid edge geometry, and a screaming sharp blade to not create enough resistance to have the bottom tip over.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK6KIVK6UWk

 

[jamz]

Anyone who wants to start learning how to make knives let me know. There is a spring Hammer-in down in New Bedford coming this April, and there will be demos on griding, blacksmithing, sheathmaking as well as the guy from www.theperfectedge.com doing sharpening, custom armor makers etc etc. I think I may do a demo on differential japanese heat treating.

We also do informal cutting competitons where you first shave hair, then ink off pages, then chop 2X4s for time, cleave tin caps and rope, and finish with hair shaving again without sharpening. Usually it must be your own knife as its a test of heat tratment, edge geometry and technique....but anyone is welcome to give some of the events a shot.

The guy who runs it limits it to around 40, but im sure I can squeeze some people in as guests. Every person who attends would have the oppurtunity to forge some damascus steel and take it home, as well.

Sounds a bit like what you have to do to become a master bladesmith.


I just got a nice Kasumi knife, but I have no idea how to sharpen it. I'm going to ave to find out.

 

[Tiktock]

Sounds a bit like what you have to do to become a master bladesmith.

Yup its very close. The MS is for a forged damascus blade, has to do the shaving, then 2X4 chopping, rope cut, then bend 90 degrees in a vice and not break/crack....

This is a similar test, and magnified into a competition...we dont bend the knives though!. The cutting comps test how fast you cut the wood, how many ropes you can cut at once, extreme degrees of sharpness. I think the cutting comps have rules based in the ABS like the MS tests. Knives have to be a certain max length, blade width, etc..

This guy holds the record for cutting a 2X4 with a bowie....1.83 seconds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oI-z8i41Do