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Shooting today

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Finally had some time to waste and go figure out how to use this darn scope. This is what I shot this early afternoon. American Eagle 150gr. .308 Remington 700P. No matter how many adjustments I made, hitting that center consistently was a tough one. Range: 100-110 yards. I need instruction!!!!! I'm all over the place!!!
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I believe you've done #1) Good luck, the Link is at the end of the article.

2) Shoot from a stable platform and rest
To reliably confirm the accuracy of your rifle and scope, you must shoot from a rest. I'm not sure I should say this or not, but I will. To illustrate the naivety of some, I've actually witnessed guys trying to sight in their rifles at the range by shooting freehand from a standing position. Needless to say these are the guys that get frustrated because they're not hitting anything.

Remember, when we're sighting in our rifles we're not testing our shooting skill, but rather the accuracy of the gun, scope and bullet being used. Our goal should be to eliminate or at least minimize human error and allow the equipment to do its thing. With this in mind, a stable shooting bench or table is always recommended. Most shooting ranges are furnished with suitable tables or benches and adjustable stools. If you're using a portable bench, make sure it is resting level on solid ground. Likewise, it's imperative to use a shooting rest. In my opinion a vice can be that much better. I really like MTM Case-Gard products (www.mtmcase-gard.com). They make a variety of shooting supplies that are both affordable and practical. Few of us exhibit perfect shooting form. By understanding the biomechanics involved with aiming, breathing, squeezing the trigger and following through we can better acknowledge how to eliminate torsion while shooting from a rest. By cradling the rifle fore-end on a rest or in a vice, we can align our sights with the downrange target and maintain that alignment for a long period of time. Then, by gently squeezing the trigger to discharge, we minimize our human influence thereby allowing the firearm to perform more or less on its own.

3) Begin at close range, then move out to 100 yards and further
I've heard much discussion about the standard 100 yard shot and arguably for most bore-sighted rifles, sighting in at that distance is fine. But talk to the pros and most will agree that you should begin at 25 yards if you want to do it right. Making adjustments at close range is easier than at longer distances. At 25 yards you'll find it easier to acquire your target; it simply appears larger and is easier to center the crosshairs at this short distance. Inaccuracies are simpler to rectify and adjustments can be made quickly at that distance. Remember, inaccuracies are exaggerated that much more at greater downrange distances.

As you make your fine adjustments to your scope, be aware of the increments and don't overdo it. For example, with my Leupold VXIII, one click = 1/4 inch adjustment. So, if my shots were hitting consistently two inches to the left of center, I would likely need to dial the adjustment eight clicks in that direction, then shoot another round of bullets. Some folks disagree, but in my opinion it is better to make subtle adjustments, then shoot to confirm that you are working toward the zero mark. As long as there are no fliers, a series of three shots is typically representative of where the gun is shooting. Although with today's scopes I don't believe it is as crucial, I still like to give it a firm tap to seat the crosshairs after each adjustment.

When your rifle and scope are in sync at 25 yards, move to 100 yards. Most big game rifle and bullet combinations that are sighted in a couple inches high at 100 yards will shoot a hair low at 25 yards - with most deer hunters this is considered ideal (e.g., I like my 300 Win Mag to be 2" high at 100 yards). Once your rifle is sighted in, try shooting at 200, 300 and 400 yards to better learn how your rifle, scope and ammunition perform at greater distances.

4) Use the same ammunition that you plan to hunt with
Not all ammunition performs the same. Be sure to sight in your rifle with the load that you plan to hunt with. Ballistics of variable bullet weights and designs (not to mention manufacturers) will perform differently. For instance, Winchester Ammunition's 150 grain Supreme Elite XP3 (www.winchester.com) will inevitably perform differently than Remington's 180 grain Core-Lokt, PSP (www.remington.com) shot out of my 300 Winchester Magnum.

If you reload your own ammunition, then you're likely acquainted with factors affecting bullet performance. Working the right load may take some trial and error, but the same applies - always sight in with the bullet and load you intend to hunt with.

5) Record and reference each shot
Sighting in can be as labor-intensive as you make it. As a rule, several items are required and several more make the job that much easier. As an absolute necessity, we require a table or bench, a shooting rest, our rifle, ammunition and a target. Beyond these basics, the job is much easier with a spotting scope, tripod, and additional targets along with a marker.

As you begin shooting, be sure to analyze and record each shot. I like to use a Bushnell Elite 15-45x 60 mm spotting scope (www.bushnell.com) mounted on a solid tripod. At 45 power magnification, I can see every detail on the downrange target. My scope allows me to closely assess where I hit in relation to where I aimed. Further, many shooters like to keep a matching target on the bench while they are shooting. By checking their shot, then marking it on the target beside them, they can better track their progressions to confirm any scope adjustments and accuracy. This eliminates much of the guessing about which shot was which.

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Matty B, that looks like pretty decent shooting for a new guy. You have some good groupings in there. You will get much better with more shooting time under your belt.

The .308 is loud and powerful, and can take some getting used to as well.

I think you're doing fine. Keep it up, and welcome to our forum.
 
Try a box of Federal 308 Match 168gr HPBT. I can bet your groups will decrease with that change alone.

Experiment with different ammo to see what works best for performance and cost.

And then..........practice...practice....practice...[smile]
 
Those look like really good groups. You may just be over adjusting as you try to zero the scope, or are having an issue with the springs in the scope. I know some guys turn 3 more clicks than they need, then click back 3. But I mean, those groups that touch seem to be excellent, unless they are not groups at all. If this was all one sitting, but the groups aren't shots in a row, I would think your scope is moving around, as in a loose connection or loose reticle. I had a broken reticle in a scope once, it moved from shot to shot, so I ended up with 2 groups on the paper, 5" apart. But rounds would jump from one to the other...

Anyway, give us more info on whether those are separate groups...
 
+1
Mark your groups after shooting. You should be letting your barrel cool after every group anyway-especially if this will be a rifle to hunt with.

Once I see what an actual group looks like, I can tell you what you may or may not be doing.
 
Thanks for all your help. The scope is fine. I had it boresighted again to see if it was out of whack. It's fine. I was firing from a bench with only the bipod. Perhaps using a base, maybe sandbags would keep me still. Yes, the .308 has a kick and i'm fairly new to the rifle. I'll try some differnt types of ammo. I figured since I'm only screwing around at 100 or so yards, I'd use some cheap ammo. I'll try some better ammo and a secure base and go at it again.

oh, I forgot. yes, they are seperate groups. I will march each group separately next time
 
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