Some auto-5 Questions (now with pics)

[crazymjb]

I think I posted about this in the past but couldn't find the thread. Background: My fiances father gave her her grandfathers A5. First, however, he gave it to his friend to hunt with who of course left it in the back of a pickup, and slammed the tailgate on it and split the butt stock and plate. The serial number is in the 123XXX range, so that seems to be pre 1939. Here are a few pics of the damage and import marks.

I want to know if its ok to
1. Hunt with it (or should it just remain a safe)
2. Refinish the wood (looks like its already been re-blued, the stock looks like shit)
3. Shoot slugs (barrel marked "special steel")

I'm trying to get pics up, but I'm having trouble with my card reader, I may have to wait until my fiance is home with her mac (shudder).

Mike

 

[crazymjb]

Threw up some pics, hopefully that helps out

Mike

 

[Sprocket]

I few things:
First - verify the serial # - it will be on the bottom of the receiver in front of the loading port, Are there any letters above the number like "G5" or "V5"? The number will be below. The letter codes indicate what year - I know G5 = 1965 production. Once you establish the year that will help with things.

Second - on the barrel forward of the markings you showed will be an asterisk - one = full, 2 = mod and so on. This will be your answer for slugs and steel shot - Full = no on both

Third - order a Bell & Carson replacement stock set for it if you want a reasonable replacement of high quality.

Random:
Does it say "light twelve" on it anywhere? Does it have a latchy thing on the left side of the receiver? This will be a mag disconnect. When you get it to a range leave the chamber open and insert a shell in the bottom port - I love this feature.

Keep us posted - nice score.

 

[MisterHappy]

NIce.

I'll give you $50 , cash, if you're interested!

If the split has been repaired, go for it.

If you've not used it, check the recoil spring, friction piece and the beveled washer for correct positioning, and that the magazine tube is not all oily. Check the forend for a longitudinal crack - its common on older A5s.

If it's a real tight full choke (common on older hunting guns, from before shot-cup wad technonogy}, you might have some accuracy issues with slugs.


Have fun - I have one of a similar vintage, but a bit rougher in the metal finish dept., with replacement wood.

 

[crazymjb]

I know about the mag disconnect, yes it has it. There are NO letters or numbers before the serial, I've been told its pre-1939. It actually says modified on the barrel, spelled out. I didn't see a light 12 anywhere. It has a belgian era EARLY butt-plate on it http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/browning-auto-5-parts/FN111104

The stocks from that same site are up towards 400 for a stock and forearm. If its not going to do something like destroy the value (I think that was done by the wonderful man who slammed the truck-bed on it) I'd like to just refinish the ones on there, preferably with an oil, and replace that butt plate.

Mike

 

[vellnueve]

Old A-5s in that condition don't really have any particularly high value - I'd refinish it and use it.

 

[BerkshireHunter]

Great guns. I hear the sweet 16s are worth a pretty penny. Hard to find shells though.

 

[Mark from ?]

I have a Belgian and a jap sweet sixteen. They aren't worth a ton and it's easy to find ammo at cabelas

 

[Sprocket]

crazymjb - If you're gonna redo the stock go over to the Browning forum on shotgunworld.com - tons of info there. Be very careful of the forearm, they split at the receiver end - there's a way to reinforce it with fiberglass but it depends on your skills if you want to tackle that. Avoid sanding if you can, it changes the dimensions of the wood and fit becomes an issue. There's a formula of tung oil & spar varnish 50/50% I think - the spar varnish is half tung anyway so you end up with a durable finish that can easily be refreshed. The cost of replacement stocks is large to be sure - the B&C stock is like $150 and worth every cent if you decide to go that way. At the very least you'll be able to use the gun while the wood work is being done.

That's great about the MOD and year of mfgr - check the same forum for a ton of info about ID'ing age - check the chamber to make sure it's 2 3/4" vs 3" - you can mic the barrel and verify the constriction too if you'd like. Browning chokes tend to be on the tight side.

replace the buttplate - they are made of horn but you'll be able to find one at a gun show pretty easily - not sure what the cost is these days.

The suggestion about the springs and rings is a great one - download the instruction page - Mine is actually inside the forearm.

16 gauge shells are very cheap to reload - about $5/box when you're done - even with shot at $40/bag. I love my sxs but if I ever find the right A-5, heaven help me.